



































r)lass_ 

Book_ 


(X)PYRIGHT DEPOSIT 





















THIE nSTE-W 

a^hioi] Bazar Bool^ of tgeToilet 

A COMPLETE 

GUIDE TO AND MANUAL OF 

ALL THE 

Arts ani Secrets of Personal Beantf M Cliarni. 


CONTAINING RULES FOR THE 

Promotion and Preservation of Beauty, How to Acquire and 
Preserve a Beautiful Complexion, The Care of the Skin, 
The Q-rowth and Management of the Hair, etc., 
and Many Valuable Kecipes and Remedies. 


NEW YORK: 

GEORGE MUNRO, PUBLISHER, 

17 TO 27 Vandewater Street. 












THE 


New York Fireside Compamion. 


Ealiall; a Paper for tlie Hon He. 

- . ^ 

PURE, BRIGHT AND INTERESTING. 


THE FIRESIDE COMPANION numbers among its contributors the best of 
living fiction writers. 

Its Detective Stories are the most absorbing ever published, and its spe¬ 
cialties are features peculiar to this journal. 


A Fashion Article, embracing the newest modes, prices, etc., by a noted 
modiste, is printed in every number. 

The Answers to Correspondents contain reliable information on every con¬ 
ceivable subject. 


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copies sent free. 

GEORGE MUNRO, Publisher, 

17 to 27 Vandewater Street, New York, i 


F. 0. Box 3751. 




















THE NEW YORK 


FASHION urn BOOK OF IHE TOILET. 


A COMPLETE GUIDE AND MANUAL 


TO ALL THE 


ARTS AND SECRETS OF PERSONAL BEAUTY AND CHARM. 


.-y 


CONTAINING RULES FOR THE 


PROMOTION AND PRESERV/'^TON OF BEAUTY. 




NEW YORK: 

GEORGE MUNRO, PUBLISHER, 


17 TO 27 Vandewatkr Street. 



I 


I 


t 


^ '?cy\ <?. 


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, by 
GEORGE MUNRO, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, IVashington, D. C. 






f « 





I 


TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


CIIAI’TEU I, 

PAGE 

Peiisonal Beauty. 3 

CIIAPTEli II. 

Imi’oiitance OF Health...’. J 

CHAPTER III. 

Clothing, Colohs, and Jewelhy . 9 

CHAPTER IV. 

Bathing and Exercise . 17 

CHAPTER V. 

The Skin. 21 

CHAP'l'ER VI. 

The Care of the Eyes. 33 

CHAPTER VII. 

Tub; Hair. 39 










iv TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

PAGE 

The Nose. 70 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Body. 85 

CHAPTER X. 

The Hand . 99 

CHAPTER XI. 

The Foot. 108 

CHAPTER XH. 

Pehfumes. 116 


CHAPTER XLII. 

Motheu’s Mark, oh Pout-Wine jMauk. 


118 








THE NEW YORK 


FASHION BAZAR BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


? CHAPTER 1. 

PERSONAL BEAUTY. 

Personal beauty and adornment are worthy objects of 
study, and liave been sought by men and women of all 
lands. Beauty is possessed in a greater or less degree by 
all women, and may be enlianced by the arts of the toilet 
and by dress and ornament. The prime condition of 
personal beauty and loveliness is good health. The first 
object of all who seek to increase their beauty and at¬ 
tractiveness is health. Even inherited peculiarities or 
defects of form are glossed over and modified 1 y the per¬ 
fect condition of the body. 

Personal beauty offers a larger field for the exercise and 
gratification of taste than all other departments of nature, 
as more depends upon the modifying influences of ex¬ 
pression, and upon the variety and piquancy of individual 
character and appearance than to permanent form. This 
is the secret of the vast influence and importance of the 
toilet, a fact known almost instinctively to women, but 
which men find it hard to understand. In matters of 
dress and the toilet, women are artists by instinct and 
know how to set off their good points and hide their de¬ 
fects. Every one knows how tall a man appears when 
disguised as a woman, and how short and dumpy-looking 



4 


NEW YOEK FASHION BAZAR 


a woman is when dressed as a man. The fullness of a 
woman’s dress is a trick which gives height, and if the 
dress be still further lengthened by a train the illusion is 
increased, and an aesthetic effect is produced of breadth 
and dignity pleasins: to beholders and gratifying to the 
wearer. Women have naturally quickly abandoned any 
fashion which dwarfed them and made them insignificant. 

The contempt which is often expressed for personal 
appearance and beauty is foolish and irrational. The 
effect of beauty is to give pleasure. Its influence is world¬ 
wide and far-reaching. It is probable that fully one half 
the friendships and affections of life are attributable to 
beauty, and even intellect and morals are unfolded and 
promoted by its presence. A mere notice of the influence 
of personal beauty on individuals and on society in all 
ages of the world would embrace the whole history of the 
human race. It hn'=’ perhaps, owing to the lawless 
passions and vices of mankind, been productive of more 
contention than has been caused by ambition, and more 
misery than has been occas oned by avarice and gold. 
But, if such have been some of its effects, owing to the 
sensuous element of man's nature, in the other scale of 
the balance we'have the divine influence of universal 
beauty over poetry, sculpture, painting, and eloquence, 
over manners, thought, intellect, and, indeed, everything, 
every art, faculty, and action of social life and civiliza¬ 
tion, which by an elevating, inspiring, and guiding prin¬ 
ciple, can be raised from rudeness and mediocrity to a 
state of progress, reflnement, and dignity. It has given 
us the most magnificent statues, the most splendid paint¬ 
ings, and the most enchanting and heart-stirring poetry. 
It has given an impetus and an expression to all the 
polite arts; and it has imparted charms to the products 
of many of the least attractive branches of human industry. 
In truth, the chief object in the fine arts is the creation 
of beauty, or the copying of its models; and among these, 


BOOli: OF THE TOILET. 5 

personal beauty offers the most refined and inexhaustible 
subject for the study and exertions of the artist. 

The effect which beauty exercises on the mind when 
associated with the expression of intelligence and moral 
excellence is more nearly supernatural than any other 
material influence. The eye soon becomes accustomed to 
what it beholds, be it plain or fair; but the expression, 
the sweet smile, the amiable temper, the soothing tone of 
the gentle voice, the cheerful disposition, the readiness 
to forget and to forego when some trifling stumbling- 
block presents itself in the road of life—ah! what can com¬ 
pensate for the want of these?—what else can adjust the 
balance between the material and the spiritual?—what 
else can link two souls in a life-enduring constancy of 
friendship and affection, and lead them to look with con¬ 
fidence for a reunion beyond the tomb, and the enjoyment 
of the beatitude of eternity together? If we '^’oulcl insure 
the permanence of mutual friendship and affection, we 
must seek it in the depths of the heart, where moral 
beauty is dominant over intellectual beauty, and where 
both of these, during converse or communion, light up 
the features, whether plain or beautiful, with the holy 
and enchanting expression of intelligence, sympathy, and 
virtue. This hapi^y union of mind and moral excellence, 
when associated with material beauty, not merely com¬ 
pels admiration, but exerts a power almost amounting to 
fascination. 


6 


NEW YORK YASHION BAZAR 


CHAPTER II. 

IMPORTANCE OF HEALTH. 

Health must be there, or beauty cannot be: 

The sunken, languid eye, the pallid cheek. 

The lax and purple lip, but move the mind 
To pity—not to love.” 

Although there may be beauty with impaired health, 
yet all beauty is a sign and sequence of health, and per¬ 
fect health is the greatest promoter and true concomitant of 
perfect beauty. Health is that condition in which all the 
organs of the body perform their offices without friction 
and with the best results. Disease hinders Nature from 
performing her office, and a hinderance in one organ 
deranges all. 

-i/'" ,31 many sacrifice permanent advantage to immediate 
effect. By the use oti;§timulants and high living they 
gain the appearance of high health without the reality. 
Muscular development, inordinate plumpness, fleshiness, 
and red cheeks are not unfailing tests of genuinely good 
health. It is more manifest in the general tone and vi¬ 
tality, in freshness of feeling and systematic vigor that 
couivo vxortioii and finds every pulsation of life de¬ 
lightful. 

Two fifths of all that are born die under the age of five 
years; one half perish before the completion of the tenth 
year. The delicacy of the human organism is sufficiently 
manifest in this to impress the importance of proper 
nurture and protection of the body upon the most thought¬ 
less. It is necessary first to regard the vital functions of 
the body if we desire an attractive outside for the passing 
hour. In general, scarcely a single thought is devoted to 
these by those who are most desirous of enhancing and re¬ 
taining their charms. 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


7 


From infancy to age—from poverty to wealth—health, 
cleanliness, personal comfort, and a pleasing appear¬ 
ance, are, and must ever continue, the first matters of 
consideration. The welfare of the infant, the child, 
the youth, the adult, are, in different degrees, de¬ 
pendent on them. They are also necessary to the aged, 
and perhaps even more so; not merely for their own well¬ 
being, but on account of those younger than them¬ 
selves around them. By rigid attention to them, and by 
a judicious occupation of the mind on pleasing subjects, 
instead of letting it fall back upon itself, much of the 
vigor and agreeableness of youth may be retained to a late 
period of life. 

With some persons—perhaps I might say with most 
persons—the duties of the toilet are of a very simple char¬ 
acter—being limited to mere acts of clea»'hness, and the 
use of the ordinary hair and skin cosmetics. Otliers go 
further, but it is all in the same direction; their thoV.^ Us 
not extending to those numei''c.ta and more important 
matters without which a pleasing personal appearance, 
much less beauty, cannot long exist. There are certain 
matters necessary to life, and essential to our well¬ 
being, such as air, food, sleep, exercise, retention and 
excretion, the passions, etc., which, from not actually 
forming a part of the living body, were called, by the 
older physicians, the non*naturals.’’ Attention to 
these is as essential to the preservation of the health as it 
is to life; and through the health, of the personal appear¬ 
ance and comfort of the individual. These are matters, 
indeed, which are not merely essential auxiliaries of the 
qualities and endowments referred to, but are actually the 
very foundation on which not only they, but even the en¬ 
joyment of life depends. 

The habits of life of many persons are justly said to be 
utterly deficient in the permanent enjoyment produced 
by temperance, exercise, regular habits, and cleanliness. 


8 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

Let US go into fashionable life, as affording strong ex¬ 
amples of the neglect or disregard of all of these except 
the last one, and that in a quarter where we might rea¬ 
sonably the least expect to find it. Temperance includes 
moderation at table, and in all the enjoyments which the 
world calls pleasure; and regular habits include the recur¬ 
rence of the appropriate meals at proper intervals, and 
the avoidance of late hours. 

Is it any wonder that injudicious feeding, exhausting 
habits, late hours, exposure, the conversion of night into 
day and day into night, and the want of sufiicient rest 
and sound sleep, should soon become visible in the feat¬ 
ures, and make the looking-glass of the fashionable belle 
a monitor—alas! an unheeded monitor, of her gradually 
waning charms and health? 

Under such habits it is no wonder that the firm yet 
delicate texture of the skin gives place to flabby softness, 
and those delicate portions on which personal beauty de¬ 
pends assume a sickly paleness or a coarse and blotchy 
redness, according to the constitution of the individual. 

The immediate and intimate relations of health to the 
personal appearance cannot be too often pointed out, and 
should be thoroughly understood and acted on in the 
every-day affairs of life. 

On the promotion and preservation of the health, chiefly 
depend the improvement of the personal appearance, and 
the maturation and maintenance of personal beauty. The 
delicate nature of the formation and functions of the hu¬ 
man body is such, that propriety and regularity of dress, 
living, and the like, are of more importance than is gen¬ 
erally supposed, or than some members of the medical 
profession are ready to admit. It is, however, a demon¬ 
strable fact, that, apart from the vicissitudes of climate 
and season, and mere accidental circumstances against 
wdiich human foresight is unable to guard, the neglect of 
these matters is alone sufiicient to account for fully .one 


BOOK; OF THE TOILET. 


9 


half of fclie maladies and sufferings which flesh is heir 
to/’ The body must be properly nourished and its heat 
maintained by appropriate food—it must be properly 
clothed to meet the vicissitudes of climate, situation, 
weather, and individual constitution—it must be freely 
exposed to the influence of light, air, warmth, and the 
like—it must be kept clean, and enjoy regularity and suf¬ 
ficiency of exercise, sleep, and all the habits necessary 
to mere animal as well as polislied life, for the full exer¬ 
cise of its numerous delicate functions, and the possession 
of perfect healtli. Unless these matters are attended 
to, the health will fail, and no effort of dressing, no toilet 
however complicated and laborious, no subtle cosmetics, 
will be capable of preserving the personal charms from 
certain and rapid decay. 


CHAPTER III. 

CLOTHING, COLORS, AND JEWELRY. 

Before entering on the immediate matters of the toilet 
it is necessary to say a few words relative to clothing and 
tlie accessories of dress. 

By judicious selection and use of appropriate clothing, 
tlie personal appearance and charms are promoted through 
the medium of the general health; whilst, under the 
guidance of taste articles of dress are capable of directly 
adorning and giving grace to the form that holds the im¬ 
mortal spirit on which intellect and beauty depend. 

For clothing to be both protective and promotive of 
health, the materials of which it is composed, and its 
quantity and arrangement, must be appropriate to the 
age, constitution, and habits of the individual, and to the 
season and climate. Unless all these are attended to, 
we lose many of the benefits which it should confer, and 



10 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

frequently inflict on ourselves inconveniences and injuries 
of a more or less serious character. 

U NDE R-CLOTHING— W OOL. 

The materials which form our clothing, though pre¬ 
sented to us in an almost endless variety of forms, text¬ 
ures and colors, are in reality few in number. Each of 
these, however, possesses peculiar advantages, and are 
therefore each valuable under certain circumstances. 
Wool, for instance, is the poorest conductor of heat and 
therefore most suitable for clothing in cold, damp, 
changeable climates. It also acts on the skin by friction 
as a stimulant promoting the circulation, and assists pow¬ 
erfully in maintaining the surface of the body at a proper 
and equable temperature. It keeps the pores of the skin 
in a state favorable to healthy perspiration, while absorb¬ 
ing the perspiration as emitted; and allowing its watery 
portions to be evaporated in the air it does not become 
damp and wet as cotton and linen under the same circum¬ 
stances. From this valuable property of wool or flannel, 
persons who wear it next the skin seldom take cold from 
exposure and change of temperature, even though per¬ 
spiring profusely. 

In a changeable and moist climate every person should 
wear a flannel or woolen robe next the skin, or, at all 
events, a waistcoat of flannel, extending from the bottom 
of the neck to a point beneath the loins; and this should 
be continued all the year round. The practice of discon¬ 
tinuing the use of flannel as soon as the warm weather 
sets in is highly reprehensible; for flannel is, if possible, 
even more needed in summer tlian in winter, because per¬ 
sons perspire more freely at that season, and being less 
protected by their other clothing, are more liable to suffer 
from sudden changes of temperature, draughts, damp, 
etc. To females, children, the delicate of both sexes, and 
all those who perspire freely, or are much exposed, the use 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


11 


of flannel next the skin, and of worsted or woolen stock¬ 
ings, is indispensable to their health and safety. The 
prevalence of rheumatism, and the enormous mortality 
among children, youth, and females more particularly, 
from pulmonary consumption and other breath diseases, 
and complaints peculiar to the gentler sex, depend, to a 
very great extent, on the neglect of these precautions. 

Cotton Under-clothing. 

Cotton now constitutes the material of the chief por¬ 
tion of the under-clothing of the great mass of the people, 
and whilst inferior to wool in warmth, it affords in its 
many forms an admirable substitute for it. It is worn 
largely for in-door garments, and is less heating to the 
surface of the body. 

Linen Under-clothing. 

Linen is remarkable for the smoothness and softness of 
its texture, and in hot climates especially is an agreeable 
material for clothing to be worn next the skin. It is 
more retentive of moisture than cotton, and therefore less 
suitable for a damp climate. From the whiteness and 
smoothness of its surface it forms an elegant and appro¬ 
priate material for outer garments in extremely hot 
weather. 


Silk Under-clothing. 

Silk is remarkable for the roundness of its fibers, the 
softness of its texture, the agreeable sensation of freshness 
which it conveys to the skin, and the absence of any at¬ 
tractive or retentive power for damp or moisture; and, as 
an article of clothing, as far as these points are con¬ 
cerned, it is greatly superior to either linen or cotton. 
But with all these advantages, silk, when worn next the 
body, has its defects. On the slightest friction it dis¬ 
turbs the electricity of the skin, and thus becomes a 


KEW YORK FASHIOK BAZAR 


Fource of irritation. Sometimes, it is true, this irritation 
is advantageous, as causing a determination of blood to 
the surface; but when this action is not required, it is 
disagreeable and quite equal, in a sensitive constitution, 
to producing an eruption on the skin. I have seen erup¬ 
tions occasioned in this manner, and, when they have not 
occurred, so much itching and irritation as to call for the 
abandonment of the garment. As the material of the 
outer dress of ladies it is, however, unexceptionable; and, 
whether for warmth or protective power, must be regard¬ 
ed, weight for weight, as superior even to fine woolens. 

Leather and Rui?ber. 

India rubber and all similar substances, as well as all 
fabrics rendered waterproof, are objectionable on many 
grounds. They are impervious to air and to the vapors 
and perspiration given off by the body. They also dis¬ 
turb the natural electrical condition of the body and its 
relations with the air. 

Leather as a material for gloves and shoes stands un¬ 
equaled in usefulness and durability, and the same may 
be said of felt as a material for hats. 

It may be further remarked that, besides the distinctive 
nature of the raw materials used as clothing, the peculiar 
texture and the respective weights, thickness, etc., of the 
fabrics into which they are wrought, must also be taken 
into consideration. All these points are important. 

Clothing to be conducive to health must not only be 
sufficient and of appropriate materials, but it must be 
soft and fit easy, so as to permit the full and unrestrained 
development and motions of the body; and, above all, 
pressure on the abdomen, chest, neck, and head must be 
carefully avoided. This is particularly necessarv in in¬ 
fancy, and is almost equally so in childhood; and, with 
some slight modifications, in every age of life. Women, 
owing to the delicate structure of their bodies and their 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


13 


usually inactive habits, are more susceptible of injury 
than the other sex from errors in dressing, and should, 
tlierefore, be more careful to avoid them. Stiff and tight 
bandages, stiff and tight stays, tight boots and shoes, 
back-boards, braces, and tight lacing limit and distort the 
natural movements of the body, and sympathetically 
cramp the healthy operations of the mind. Such re¬ 
straints are supposed to give elegance of carriage and per¬ 
fection of form; whilst, in fact, they only produce stiff¬ 
ness and deformity. The contracted waist, constrained 
movements, and helpless limbs, which result from tight 
lacing, are no more consistent with grace than the hectic 
bloom on the transparent skin of consumption with real 
beauty. 

Clothing of Legs and Feet. 

The clothing of tiic legs and feet deserve much more 
attention, in reference to the health, than is usually paid 
them, since, from the less vigorous circulation of the 
blood in the lower extremities than in the other parts of 
the body, they are much more susceptible to the ill effects 
of changes of temperature and dampness. Stockings or 
socks should be of such a kind as will absorb the perspira¬ 
tion and keep the feet warm. Those of worsted or woolen 
are the best for all seasons. Liglit woolens or soft 
porous cotton stockings may be worn in warm weather. 
Thread and silk stockings are inferior for out-of-door 
wear especially, as they are incapable of carrying off the 
perspiration and keeping the feet warm. Boots and shoes 
should be of a kind to protect the feet from injury and to 
keep them dry, but possessing a comfortable degree of 
softness and flexibility, otherwise they will give rise to 
corns and bunions. 

Use of Gloves. 

The use of gloves, now universal among most classes of 
society, is recommended by the example of all nations 


14 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


from the most remote antiquity to the present time, as an 
emblem of refinement and luxury, as well as of utility. 
Gloves protect the hands from the effects of cold, wind, 
and sunshine, and thus preserve their beauty and sensi¬ 
bility. These objects are best effected by easy-fitting 
gloves, made of materials appropriate to the season, and 
adapted to preserve the hands at a comfortable or natural 
temperature. Tight gloves are objectionable, as, from 
checking the free circulation of the blood, they tend to 
render the hands cold in winter and swollen in summer. 
The choice of gloves, as mere articles of ornament, must 
of course depend wholly on the taste of the wearer, and 
the prevailing fashion of the times. 

Fashions of Dress. 

With regard to the prevailing fashions, it may be ob¬ 
served that, although constrained in some degree to adopt 
them, it is wise to avoid those which are disfiguring or 
unsuitable, as a sufficient variety prevails to admit of 
choosing such as are becoming. Thus a short, stout per¬ 
son should avoid wearing a dress flounced or frilled to the 
waist, or even to any considerable height, as also a high, 
distended skirt, which might be tolerable in one of her 
taller sisters. In like manner, a long waist is equally in¬ 
congruous on a tall person, and a very small hat or bon¬ 
net to one who has a full and prominent face; nor should 
a woman of small stature wear large patterns; nor one 
very tall a long scanty cloak, or a depending scarf; nor a 
bad walker, flounces; nor one with a short throat or neck, 
feathers; nor one with high shoulders, a shawl. 

Colors. 

Articles of dress should be selected with reference to 
the figure and complexion so as to secure a pleasing con¬ 
trast or harmony. The colors should blend and harmo¬ 
nize with the complexion without interfering with, its 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


15 


purity; or such as improve it by throwing some agreeable 
tint into it of which it is naturally deficient. Taste, 
whether natural or acquired by experience from the past 
successes and failures of ourselves or of others of like 
complexion and features, will usually be found sufficient 
to direct the reader in this respect, provided, sufficient 
thought be given to the subject before making the selec¬ 
tion. Thus, for example, a brunette should not wear a 
bonnet nor attire herself in silks of a grave or somber 
hue, nor should a blonde with little carnation in her 
cheeks sully her fairness with rich and very deep colors. 
In like manner a pale complexion appears much more so 
when placed in contiguity with pale blue or purple, violet, 
lilac, or puce; and, if there be a dash of sallowness in it, 
assumes a sickly, a cadaverous, or even a leaden hue. 
Black, unless loaded with heavy trimmings round the 
face, appears more or less to suit all complexions, except 
the very pale, the very ruddy, the tawny, and the copper- 
colored. In many cases it causes a coarse, dark, opaque 
complexion to appear comparatively fair and agreeable. 

These effects of different colors on the complexion, and 
on each other, depend on the compound nature and prop, 
erties of light, and on certain natural affections of the 
eye, which it is well that every one should be acquainted 
with, from their general application in the arts of dress 
and ornamentation. If we look for some time, particu¬ 
larly with one eye, on a bright-colored object, as a wafer 
or a small piece of silk placed on a piece of white paper, 
and subsequently turn the same eye to another part of 
the paper, a similarly shaped spot or mark will be seen, 
but the color will vary, though it will be always the same 
under like circumstances. Thus, if the original color be 
red, the imaginary or accidental one will be green; if 
black, it will be white; the imaginary color being always 
‘•'complementary ’’ of that first gazed on. If, instead of 
the surface on which the eye is subsequently turned being 


16 KEW YOEK FASHION' BAZAR 

white, it be of any other light color, then the imaginary 
color will not be complementary of tlie first one, but a 
mixture of the surface color and the complementary one. 
This is precisely what occurs, under the same circum¬ 
stances, to a greater or less degree, when the eye rests on 
tlie dress or on the human features and the colors sur¬ 
rounding it. 

Simplicity of Dress. 

An elegant simplicity of dress and toilet, with unaffecb 
ed manners, demands respect, and is always admired by 
persons of real worth and taste. Indeed, it is as much 
an evidence of a refined mind as its neglect is of vulgar¬ 
ity and ill-breeding. Above all things, it must be 
remembered that the beauty and whiteness of the linen, 
and thorough attention to cleanliness of all garments, are 
among the cliief and most palpable indications of refine¬ 
ment. No richness of the other portions of the apparel, 
and no amount of care bestowed on the adornment of the 
person, can possibly compensate for negligence in these 
points. 

Jewelry. 

The selection of jewels for the head and neck should 
be guided, as to color, by the same principles as those al¬ 
ready indicated in speaking of dress. Diamonds are 
adapted to almost all complexions. Pearls are nearly the 
same; they particularly set off the dark-haired brunette^ 
but lose much of their effect when the complexion is 
pale, sallow, or coarse, and the hair light or fiaxen. Tur- 
quois, and other stones of like color, and the pink coral 
are particularly becoming to the healthy blonde; but 
where the skin is pale or slightly sallow, the former 
should be avoided. Ornaments in frosted silver well suit 
the brunette, and particularly set off dark hair. 

Before dinner only a few si,iiij^l,e articles, of jewelry are 



BOOK OP THE TOILET. 


worn, and these chiefly conflned to sliglit gold trinkets, 
or those in which opaque stones only are introduced. 
Ornaments of a costlier kind, with binlliant stones or 
gems, are never worn in the morning, and only assumed 
when dressing for dinner, or for the drawing-room, an 
evening party, the ball, or opera. 


CHAPTER IV. 

BATHIKG AKD EXEKCISE. 

Personal cleanliness is the flrst essential of health, 
comfort and beauty. It enhances every charm, and cre¬ 
ates new ones peculiar to to Itself. It invigorates the 
body as well as the mind. No one perfectly clean in per¬ 
son can be absolutely disagreeable; whilst no amount of 
personal charms in features, figure, or complexion, can 
render an individual companionable without it. 

Addison regarded cleanliness as the foster-mother of af¬ 
fection, and as the most enduring of all the auxiliaries of 
personal beauty. 

‘‘ Beauty commonly produces love, but cleanliness pre¬ 
serves it.” 


Cleanliness and Health. 

In its relations to health, personal cleanliness is of the 
very highest importance. During life the skin is continu¬ 
ally subjected to abrasion, and continually undergoing the 
processes of reproduction and decay, by which the cuticle 
or scarf-skin, its exterior portion, is being constantly 
thrown off, as effete and useless matter, in the shape of 
very minute scales or dust. This, mingling with the oily, 
saline, and aqueous matter of the perspiration, and the 
waste particles of the dress, dust, eto., acquires sufficient 
adhesiveness to attach itself to the surface of the body, 
and to the clothing. In this way, unless the accumula- 



18 


NEW YORK EASHiON BAZAR 


tion be daily removed by friction and washing, the chart* 
nels of the perspiration become choked, and the functions 
of the skin, as a respiratory organ, interfered with, or 
even partially suspended. At the same time the clothing, 
and particularly the body linen, becomes loaded and con¬ 
taminated with the exuvia3 of the skin, the solid portion 
of the perspiration, and the ordinary exlialations from the 
body, and unless frequently renewed, is rendered unwhole¬ 
some and unfit for use. The hair, too, becomes loaded 
with scurf and dust, and the pores of the skin under it 
choked with the exuviae, etc., before referred to, by which 
the hair-bulbs ‘^are strangled, as it were, in the perform¬ 
ance of their natural functions.’’ The teeth ‘^accumu¬ 
late organic particles in their interstices, and their enam¬ 
el becomes incrusted with the minute (microscopic) skele¬ 
tons of animalcules tliat populate the mucous secretions 
of the mouth.” All these are prejudicial to health, per¬ 
sonal beauty and refined enjoyment, and may be removed 
by the simple acts of cleanliness. 

Cleanliness and Beauty. 

A lady of discernment and experience in these matters— 
herself as lovely and fascinating as she was accom¬ 
plished—in addressing her sister, observed: “An im¬ 
portant, and, I might say, the principal recipe Avhich 
I shall give you for the promotion and preservation of 
your beauty is cleanliness, thorough cleanliness, in tlie 
most extended sense of the word. It is an indispensable 
thing. It maintains the skin in its softness, the com¬ 
plexion in its luster and natural hue, the limbs in their 
pliancy, the whole frame in its vigor and fairest light, the 
mind in its purity, and the spirits in the buoyancy of 
youth irrespective of age and condition. The frequent 
use of tepid water to the person, and particularly of the 
tepid bath, is not less grateful to the senses than it is salu¬ 
tary to health and beauty. It is by such ablutions that 


BOOK OF THE TOiLET. 


19 


accidental corporeal impurities are thrown off, cutaneous 
eruptions removed, and, wliile the surface of the body is 
preserved in its original purity and briglitness, many 
threatening and beauty-destroying disorders are prevent¬ 
ed.” 


Full Ba^ths. 

However benedcial the frequent use of water for wash¬ 
ing may be, the effects arising from the immersion of the 
body in it, as in the practice of bathing, are far more ex¬ 
tensive and complete. What the one does usefully, but 
not completely, the other accomplishes readily, satisfac¬ 
torily and perfectly. There is no substitute for the en¬ 
tire bath. Its physiological effects are peculiar to itself, 
and of the utmost importance in hygiene, pathology and 
medicine. Nor is the action of judicious bathing in the 
promotion of personal comfort and hai^piness, and per¬ 
sonal beauty, less remarkable. 

For washing and bathing purposes, water should be 
soft and pure, and a little good soap employed whenever 
the state of the skin requires it. Baths should not be 
taken directly before a meal, nor for at least two hours 
subsequent to eating. Moderate exercise before a bath is 
safe, but when the body is exhausted by fatigue it is not 
in a suitable condition, as there is less power of reaction, 
and greater danger of a chill. A warm or tepid bath is 
adapted to the delicate and robust alike, and to every cli¬ 
mate and season. Cold baths are suited to the healthy 
and vigorous, and swimming baths in sea-water can be 
safely practiced only during the warmer months of the 
year, and in a mass of water that has been for some hours 
exposed to the rays of the sun, and sufficiently large to 
permit of the heat of the body being maintained by swim¬ 
ming or other active exercise. The shower-bath is an 
exception to these remarks, and is a convenient and invig¬ 
orating substitute for other forms of bathing. The plunge- 


NEW YOEK FASHION BAZAR 


So 

bath is also a partial exception; but it should be carefully 
avoided by those wlio are predisposed to heart-disease or 
brain*disease, or to congestion of any of the great viscera. 
Sea-bathing, from its stimulating and invigorating action 
on the skin and the whole nervous system, is not only 
most agreeable, but highly salutary, when indulged in at 
the proper season. It has also the important advantage 
over bathing in fresh water, that persons seldom take cold 
from it. • The best time for it is two hours after break¬ 
fast. No one should prolong a bath over fifteen min¬ 
utes. 

Sea Bathing. 

Sea-bathing, ‘‘on account of its stimulative and pene¬ 
trating power, may be placed at the head of those means 
which regard the care of the skin; and it certainly sup¬ 
plies one of the first wants of the present generation, by 
opening the pores, and thereby reinvigorating the whole 
nervous system.” Sea-bathing does not agree with every 
one. Nervous persons whose digestion is impaired and 
circulation is imperfect should be careful about remaining 
long in water, and should be vigorously rubbed on coming 
out. 

By using pure water, to which a few ounces of glycerine 
and a little rose-water have been added, the luxury of a 
bath is much increased, and a delightful sensation of soft¬ 
ness and delicacy imparted to the skin. Where expense 
IS to be avoided, the same result can be secured by using 
a sponge and a basin and a single quart of water to which 
the glycerine and rose-water are added in smaller quan¬ 
tities. 

Warm or Tepid Baths. 

The opinion tliat a warm or tepid bath is relaxing is 
erroneous. It is only so when the temperature is extreme, 
and when persons remain in it too long or take it too 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


21 


often. Immediately before retiring to rest is the best 
time for it, as a night of refreshing sleep is almost certain 
to follow. The warm bath is adapted to every age. 
Those in declining years will find that it retards the ef¬ 
fects of time, preserves youthful feelings, and strengthens 
all their faculties. 

Exercise. 

In close connection with the subject of personal clean¬ 
liness and bathing is that of gentle daily exercise in the 
open air, in situations exposed to refreshing breezes and 
sunlight. Without tliis all other efforts to preserve the 
body in vigorous health fail. It is a natural tonic and 
cosmetic, and gives the glow to health, a brilliancy to the 
eye, and freshness to the complexion which art is notable 
to bestow. Exercise develops the form and gives round¬ 
ness to the limbs and cheeks, and makes the dimples in 
which Cupid loves to nestle. 


CHAPTER V. 

THE SKIH. 

Ih health, the management of the skin ..s a very simple 
matter, and consists chiefly in keeping it clean and pro¬ 
tecting it from exL’emes of heat and cold, sudden changes 
of weather, and moisture, which tend to destroy its natu¬ 
ral sensibility, to'thicken and harden it, and render it 
coarse and rough, and, by the rupture of capillary arteries, 
to impart to it a ruddy, weather-beaten appearance. 
Drying winds, whether hot or cold, injure the skin, by 
carrying off the moisture which is essential to its supple¬ 
ness and proper action; and this, in extreme cases, to a 
degree sufficient to destroy its vitality, and even to pro¬ 
duce chaps or fissures in it. On the other hand, contin¬ 
ual exposure to a moist atmosphere, or humidity or aque- 



22 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


ous vapor in any form, tends to relax it, to reduce its 
tone and hue, and to render it injuriously susceptible to 
the temperature of the surrounding air, as well as to 
changes of it. Light and shade also affect the skin, but 
in opposite ways. Constant exposure to diffused daylight, 
and to the sunlight, when not too vivid, for some little 
time daily, is favorable to the health and beauty of tlie 
skin, and improves the hue of the complexion; but the 
direct rays of the sun, particularly the summer sunshine, 
when long continued, thicken and darken it, and some¬ 
times, in persons peculiarly susceptible, even blister it, or 
cause the hardened cuticle to exfoliate. An insuflScient 
exposure to light, on the contrary, causes the skin to as¬ 
sume a pale and sickly hue, and to become lax and un¬ 
healthy. 

Anointing the Skin. 

To obviate the ill effect of the exposure and external 
influences, the dry skin, after bathing, may be slightly 
anointed with some mild simple oil, as that of the olive or 
the sweet almond, friction being at the same time em¬ 
ployed, and the whole body gently rubbed with a towel. 
Glycerine mixed with water may be used instead of oil 
and it is more effective and congenial to the skin. It is 
not only capable of imparting delicacy, suppleness, and 
an agreeable sensation to the skin, but also of preserving 
it, to a very great extent, from the effects of heat and 
cold, drying winds, fervid sunshine, as well as, by its per¬ 
manently softening power, preventing its induration from 
friction or pressure, and the formation of callosities on 
it. For this purpose the skin need only be thoroughly 
moistened with it, the excess of moisture being subse¬ 
quently removed by means of a soft towel. 

Effect of Light. 

Light has a most important and powerful influence 
upon the sl^in, So essential to health is direct sunlight 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


S3 

tliafc persons whose houses or apartments have a northern 
aspect and who get little of the sun’s rays, are generally 
of a pale complexion and languid expression of features. 
Fevers and pestilential diseases generally, are more fre¬ 
quent and severe among the inhabitants of such apart¬ 
ments than among those exposed to the light of the sun. 
The actinic, or chemical rays of sunlight, are absolutely 
necessary to tlie enjoyment of vigorous health, and the 
possession of beauty. 

Effect of Fkicttok. 

Friction has a most beneficial effect upon the skin. It 
will be found not only capable of cleansing the skin, but 
advantageous, from exciting the cutaneous circulation, 
and invigorating the whole system. The instrument 
usually employed for the purpose is a flesh brush, but a 
glove, a coarse towel, or even a stocking with the hand 
thrust in it may be employed. It is probably the most 
healthful, effective and ready substitute for the entire 
bath that can be employed, and the use of the sponge 
bath after it greatly increases its good effects. 

Use of Flesh Brush. 

The daily vigorous use of the flesh brush or rough 
towel for those parts of the body that are covered by the 
clothing increases the energy of the circulation on the 
surface of the body and in the extremities and is thereby 
a panacea for premature decay and all diseases of old age. 
It restores tone and color to the lax and pallid skin, re¬ 
duces swelled glands and swellings of the joints as well 
as the pains of rheumatism. When performed by another 
person with lengthened and slow movements it produces 
an agreeable effect upon the nervous system. 

Cosmetics. 

The external applications or cosmetics employed for 
improving the texture, clearness and color of the skin and 


24 


NEW YdEK i'ASHIOK BAZAR 


complexion, when judiciously selected and used are per¬ 
fectly safe, but it may be said of nearly all of them, 
except simple soap and water, that they are seldom re¬ 
quired, and that their habitual use is seldom unobjection¬ 
able when the general health is good, and the skin is in a 
perfectly healthy state. 

There are many diseases of the skin which impair its 
beauty, and it is for these that cosmetics and remedial 
preparations are mostly needed. 

Black Specks or Flesh Worms. 

The small black spots and marks frequently observed 
on the skin of the face about the nose in hot weather arise 
from the accumulation of solid matter of perspiration 
and dust in the pores. Generally they may be removed 
by being pressed between the fingers or nails followed by 
the use of hot soap and water. A weak solution of 
bichloride of mercury or of sulphate of zinc, will com¬ 
pletely remove the swelling and generally prevent their 
reformation. 

Boils. 

A boil is an inflamed portion of the skin and is an in¬ 
dication of ill health. When one begins to form it may 
sometimes be dispersed by friction with the fingers, low¬ 
ering the diet, avoiding stimulating drinks, and by the 
use of mild aperients. When they exhibit persistency by 
gradual enlargement and increasing pain, it is advisable 
to promote their suppuration by the constant application 
of poultices of bread and linseed-meal. 

Fresh air, a light nourishing diet and abstinence from 
spirits are the best measures to be taken. Indolent boils 
may be covered once daily with an ointment made as 
follows: 

Glycerine.1 drachm. 

Extract of Conium .... 1 “ 

Extract of Belladonna . . . . 1 ** 

Ceratum Resinae .... 1 ounce. 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


25 


WliQii there is a predisposition to boils, excess in eating 
and drinking should be avoided, and care should be taken 
that the bowels act regularly once a day. 

Abrasions of the Skin. 

For abrasions of the skin the best and simplest applica¬ 
tion is a single layer of flexible collodion. If much epi¬ 
dermis has been lost and the part bleeds freely, a paste 
of equal parts of glycerine and subnitrate of bismuth may 
be laid on and covered with collodion. 

Thinness or Skinniness. 

Thinness, or as it is commonly called skinniness, is the 
opposite condition to obesity or fatness. It may result 
from insufficient suppy of food, non-conversion of food 
into tissue, or excessive expenditure of vital material. 
Some thoroughly healthy people can never grow fat; the 
reason of this is either that their mental faculties are in 
a state of constant activity, or that they undergo a great 
deal of bodily exercise, either of which, by calling on the 
blood for material to replace that excreted, prevents the 
presence of superfluous nutritive substance in the system, 
and hence also its deposition as fat. Nervous people are 
not necessarily thin, but it may be laid down as a rule 
that persons of energetic temperament, with busily work¬ 
ing brains, are not fat. It has been said that clever peo¬ 
ple are never fat. I cannot agree with this statement. 
Obesity may exist with a high intellect and the exercise of 
its faculties, for such exercise may be of a calm, even 
kind, as in novel-writing, after many years’ practice. But 
the energetic, powerful, scheming, and reasoning brain 
can hardly belong to an obese person. The whole ques¬ 
tion, in fact, is a simple one, for intellectual work must 
of necessity reduce the fat of the body, but such reduction 
may be affected, not only by the calm, or, on the con¬ 
trary, energetic manner in which the mental labor may 
be carried on, but also by hereditary tendency to obesity 


26 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


or the reverse, so that it may be said of an intellectual fat 
person, if he were not intellectual he would be fatter. 
Nervous agitation and worry produce the same result. A 
fat-forming diet consisting of soup, eggs, fat meat, sugary 
foods, pastry and port wine is good. For internal medi¬ 
cines a physician’s advice should be taken invariably. 

Discolorations of the Skin. 

Discolorations of the skin are generally lessened and 
frequently removed by the daily and long continued use 
of a glycerinated solution of bichloride of mercury or 
what is popularly known as Gowland’s lotion. Other 
discolorations yield to a lotion of chloride of lime. The 
following is the formula of Gowland’s lotion, sanctioned 
by the medical profession: 

Jordan almonds (blanched) . . 1 ounce 

Bitter almonds (blanched) . . . 2 to 3 drachms. 

Distilled water .... 1-2 pint 

formed into an emulsion. To the strained emulsion with 
agitation add gradually: 

Bichloride of mercury in coarse powder fifteen grains, 
previously dissolved in one half pint of distilled water. 
The product is the celebrated Gowland’s lotion, which as a 
cosmetic and wash in eruptions and minor glandular 
swellings is most excellent. It is employed by simply 
wetting the skin with it night and morning, by means of 
the corner of a napkin or the tips of the fingers. Care 
should be taken that nothing alkaline or metallic touches 
the liquid; and the fingers should never be wetted with 
it by placing them on the mouth of the bottle and then 
shaking it up. It is a valuable remedy for itch and other 
animalcular eruptions. 

Dandruff. 

Dandruff is an exfoliation of the skin which differs 
from common scurfiness, chiefly in occurring in reddish 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


27 


patches. In its exaggerated forms, when the patches are 
irregular, and the cuticle is thrown off in large scales, 
accompanied with much irritation, it forms the‘^pity¬ 
riasis” of pathologists, and as “branny tetter.” Its 
treatment consists of extreme cleanliness, the frequent 
use of warm soap and water, and attention to the diet. 

Eruptions. 

Eruptions are too well known to require any lengthy 
description here. They are usually classified by writers 
on the subject into—animalcular eruptions, or those due 
to the presence of animalcules (minute acari) in the scarf- 
skin, which occasion much irritation, and of which the 
itch furnishes a well-marked example;—papular eruptions 
or dry pimples;—pustular eruptions or mattery pimples, 
of which some forms are popularly known as crusted tet¬ 
ters;—scaly eruptions or dry tetters; and—vesicular erup¬ 
tions or watery pimples or vesicles. 

The treatment of all the above, except the first, in 
simple cases, where there is not much constitutional dis¬ 
arrangement, consists mainly in attention to the general 
principles of health—cleanliness, exercise, food, ventila¬ 
tion, and clothing. Occasional doses of mild saline aperi¬ 
ents (Epsom-salts, cream of tartar, or phosphate of soda, 
or of sulphur combined with cream of tartar), should be 
taken, and warm or tepid bathing, preferably in sea¬ 
water, or ablution in warm soap and water, frequently 
had recourse to. Stimulants of all kinds should be 
avoided, and the red meats, ripe fruits, and the anti¬ 
scorbutic vegetables, should form a considerable portion 
of the diet. Lemonade, made by squeezing the juice of a 
lemon into a half-pint tumblerful of water, and sweeten¬ 
ing it with a little sugar, should be frequently and liber¬ 
ally taken, as one of the best beverages in such cases. To 
relieve the itching and irritation (except in the pustular, 
crusted, and vesicular varieties), brisk friction with a 


38 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


flesh-brush, or a flesh-glove may be employed. The parts 
should also be wetted with an appropriate lotion, after 
each friction or bath, or the use of soap and water. 

These lotions may consist of half a teaspoonful of salt 
of tartar, or of the juice of a large lemon, or a wine-glass¬ 
ful of strong vinegar, to about three quarters of a pint of 
pure water, 1 or 2 ounces of glycerine being in each case 
added. In the absence of glycerine, decoction of bran, or 
buttermilk, may be used. In the pustular and crusted vari¬ 
eties, 2 or 3 ounces of rectified spirit or 5 or 6 ounces of good 
rum may be added, a like quantity of water being omitted. 

AVhen the habit of body is full and inflammatory the 
diet should be lowered and a depletive treatment adopted; 
when it is the reverse the diet should be liberal and a 
course of tonic medicine, as quinine, iron and cod-liver 
oil should be taken. In all scaly eruptions of a malignant 
character the advice and recommendations of a physician 
are indispensable. Vigorous daily exercise, sufficient to 
produce active perspiration, is an active curative agency 
in all skin diseases. 

In minor cases, where the space affected is not exten¬ 
sive, the daily application of a weak solution of bichloride 
of mercury or of sulphate of zinc, to which a little glycer¬ 
ine has been added, will be found useful both for the re¬ 
moval of all the ordinary eruptions and the prevention of 
their recurrence. 

Pimples. 

The small, hard, distinct pimples that occur on the 
forehead, temples and chin can generally be removed by 
the application of lotions consisting of equal parts of 
strong vinegar and water, or weak lotions of sulphate of 
zinc or bichloride of mercury, assisted by occasional doses 
of cooling laxatives. 

Freckles. 

Freckles, the round or oval-shaped yellowish or brown¬ 
ish-yellow spots, resembling stains, common or th^ facQ 


BOOK OF TtlE TOILET. 


29 


and the backs of the hands of persons with a fair and deli¬ 
cate skin who are much exposed to the direct rays of the 
sun in hot weather, are of little importance in themselves, 
and have nothing to do with the general health. Ladies 
who desire to remove them may have recourse to the fre¬ 
quent application of dilute spirit, or lemon-juice, or a lo¬ 
tion formed by adding acetic, hydrochloric, nitric, or 
sulphuric acid, or liquor of potassa, to water, until it is 
just strong enough to slightly prick the tongue. One 
part of good Jamaica rum to two parts of lemon-juice or 
weak vinegar, is a good form of lotion for the purpose. 
Gowland’s lotion, referred to elsewhere, is also an effective 
application. The effect of all these lotions is increased 
by the addition of a little glycerine. 

The preceding are also occasionally called ‘^common 
freckles,” summer-freckles,” and ‘^sun-freckles.” In 
some cases they are very persistent, and resist all attempts 
to remove them while the exposure that produces them 
is continued. Their appearance may be prevented by 
greater use of the veil, parasol, or sun-shade, or avoidance 
of exposure to the sun during the heat of the day. 

Cold Freckles. 

Another variety, popularly known as cold freckles oc¬ 
curs at all seasons of the year, and usually depends on dis¬ 
ordered health or some disturbance of the natural functions 
of the skin, for which a physician’s advice should be asked. 

Moles. 

The small soft excrescences and discolorations of the 
skin called moles may be removed by touching them every 
second or third day with strong acetic or nitric acid, or 
with lunar caustic. If covered with hair that should be 
first removed. 

Paleness of the Skin. 

Extreme paleness of the skin generally arises from de¬ 
bility or from languid circulation of the blood at the sur- 


30 NEW YOliK FASHION BAZAR 

face of the body; often also from insufficient or improper 
food, want of out-door exercise, and the like. The main 
treatment is evident. Warm baths, friction, and stimu¬ 
lating lotions and cosmetics may be here employed, to¬ 
gether with a course of some mild chalybeate (as the lac¬ 
tate, protophosphate, or ammonia-citrate of iron), and 
hypophosphite of soda. 

Roughness or Coarseness of the Skin. 

Roughness and coarseness of the skin when not depend¬ 
ing on any particular disease, may be removed, or greatly 
lessened, by daily friction with mild unguents or oil, or 
by moistening the part, night and morning, with a weak 
solution of bichloride of mercury containing a little glyc¬ 
erine. 

Redness of the Skin. 

Rashes and redness of the skin, very common com¬ 
plaints often arise from very trifling causes, among which 
indigestion, suppressed perspiration, irritation, and the 
like, are the most frequent. Nettle-rash or urticaria, so 
called from the appearance and tingling sensation resem¬ 
bling those caused by the sting of nettles, in some habits 
of body, is very apt to follow the use of indigestible 
and unwholesome food. It is usually of short duration and 
recurrent. The treatment consists in the administration 
of mild saline aperients, and, in severe cases, of an emetic, 
particularly where the stomach is still loaded with indi¬ 
gestible matter. These should be followed by the copious 
use of lemonade made from the fresh-expressed juice. 
The patient should be lightly but warmly clothed during 
the attack, and exposure to cold, or to draughts of cold 
air, should be carefully avoided. The further treatment 
may be similar to that noticed under eruptions. To pre¬ 
vent the recurrence of the attack the objectionable articles 
of food, and any other known exciting causes, must be 


^OOK OF THF TOILET. 


31 


avoided. Red rash, red blotcli, or fiery spot, a common 
consequence of disordered healtli, a sudden fit of dyspep¬ 
sia, and, in females, of tight lacing, and rose-rash, false 
measles, or roseola, having commonly a similar origin to 
the preceding, for the most part require the same treat¬ 
ment. 


Scurf. 

Scurf or furfura ”—is a formation depending on the 
natural and healthy exfoliation of tlie skin on every part 
of the body on -which hair or down grows, but most ex¬ 
tensive and observable on tlie scalp, on account of the 
abundance and darker color of the hair there. Scurfi- 
ness, or excessive scurfiness, is the result of morbid action, 
and may be treated by the frequent use of the flesh-brush 
or hair-brush, ablution with soap and water, and the use 
of mild, stimulating, astringent, or detergent lotions. 

Scurvy. 

Scurvy is a disease which, even in its incipient and early 
stages, when its presence is often unsuspected, is most in¬ 
jurious to the skin and complexion. It usually com¬ 
mences with unnatural sallowness, debility, and low spir¬ 
its. Its chief cause is improper food, or rather the 
absence of fresh meat and vegetables. A liberal diet of 
fresh animal food, green vegetables and ripe fruit affords 
a quick cure. Sometimes tonics are also necessary to as¬ 
sist the recuperative powers. 

Pock-marks. 

The removal of “pock-marks,” particularly old ones, 
is a matter of great difficulty and time. In common 
cases the continued use of tepid glycerinated ioduretted 
lotion twice a day, or daily gentle friction with warm oils 
slightly i^.duretted, will produce a manifest improvement, 
and ultimately wholly or in part remove them. The long- 


32 KEW YORK FASHiOK RAZAR 

continued daily use of glycerinated solution of bichloride 
of mercury or of Gowland’s lotion, will also frequently 
do the same, and will invariably lessen them. AVarm sea¬ 
water baths are likewise useful, and may be taken at the 
same time. 

. Wrinkles. 

Wrinkles and looseness of the skin arise mainly from 
the attenuation of the cutis or true skin, and the reduc¬ 
tion in the bulk of the underlying surfacial portions of 
the body. They cannot be regarded as a disease of the 
skin; but are the results of long-continued bad health, 
anxiety and study, and of general emaciation and old 
age. Cleanliness, nutritious food, vigorous out-door ex¬ 
ercise, agreeable occupation of the mind, and an equable 
and happy temper, retard their formation. AVhatever 
tends to promote the general health, and to increase the 
bulk of the body, and particularly the deposition of fat in 
tlie cellular tissues, also tends to remove them, and to in¬ 
crease tlie smoothness and beauty of the skin. The free 
and frequent use of warm soap and water, followed by 
the daily use of mild, stimulating, cosmetic lotions or fo¬ 
mentations, or friction with warm oil of a like character, 
and cod-liver oil internally, is all that art can do for the 
purpose. 

Chafing. 

A soreness is sometimes produced by chafing under the 
arms, behind the ears, between the thighs, and in the wrin¬ 
kles and folds of the skin generally. It occurs chiefly in 
infancy, and in stout persons with a delicate skin, who 
perspire excessively. Extreme cleanliness, and carefully 
wiping the parts dry after washing, with the subsequent 
use of a little violet-powder or finely powdered starch, or 
French chalk scraped or grated very fine, dusted over the 
parts once or twice a day, will generally remove it and 
prevent its recurrence. 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


33 


CHAPTER VI. 

THE CARE OF THE EYES. 

A BEAUTIFUL eye is one that is full, clear, and brilliant, 
appropriate in color to the complexion, and in form, to 
the features, and of which the connected parts—the eye¬ 
lids, eyelashes, and eyebrows, which, with it, in a general 
view of the subject, collectedly form the external eye—are 
also beautiful, and in keeping with it. 

The management of the eyes, in connection with the 
toilet, consists chiefly m daily bathing or washing them 
with pure water, and the avoidance of friction or pressure, 
exposure to dust, irritating fumes, or vivid light, and 
fatiguing, straining, or overtasking them. In washing 
them, and subsequently wiping them, the utmost delicacy 
should be exercised. Strong soap should be particularly 
avoided, and only a soft napkin should be employed to 
wipe them. The use of a thick, stiff, or coarse towel, for 
the last purpose, is very injurious to them, as it tends to 
flatten them, and hastens the arrival of the time when the 
assistance of spectacles becomes necessary. ' Rubbing the 
eyes with the fingers when drowsy, especially on awaking 
in the morning, has a like tendency, and is even more in¬ 
jurious. 

Weak Eyes. 

To strengthen the eyes, to relieve them when fatigued, 
or stiff, or weak, irritable or inflamed, or swollen or con¬ 
gested, and to remove chronic opthalmia, purulent dis¬ 
charges, etc., nothing is equal to frequently bathing them 
with water, at first tepid, but afterward gradually lowered 
in temperature to absolute coldness. 

To increase the beauty and expression of the eyes vari¬ 
ous means are occasionally had recourse to, nearly all of 


34 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

which are not merely highly objectionable but dangerous. 
Thus, some fashionable ladies and actresses, to enhance 
the clearness and brilliancy of their eyes before appearing 
in public, are in the habit of exposing them to air slightly 
impregnated with the vapor of prussic acid. This is done 
by placing a single drop of the dilute acid at the bottom 
of an eye-cup or eye-glass, and then holding the cup or 
glass against the eye for a few seconds, with the head in 
an inclined position. It has also been asserted that some 
ladies rub a very small quantity of belladonna ointment 
on the brow over each eye, or moisten the same part with 
a few drops of tincture of belladonna. This produces a 
dilation of the pupil, and gives a peculiar fullness and an 
expression of languor to the eyes which, by some, are re¬ 
garded as exceedingly fascinating. The use of these active 
medicinals, in this way, when frequent, or long continued, 
or carried to excess, must necessarily result in impaired 
vision, if not in actual blindness. 

Near-SIGHT. 

For near-sightedness, close the eyes and pass the fingers, 
Yery gently, several times across them outward, from the 
canthus, or corner next the nose, toward the temple. 
This tends slightly to flatten the cornea and lens of the 
eye, and thus to lengthen or extend the angle of vision. 
The operation should be repeated several times a day, or 
at least always after making one’s toilet, until short¬ 
sightedness is nearly or completely removed. 

For long sight, loss of sight by age, Aveak sight, and 
generally for all those defects which require the use of 
magnifying glasses, gently pass the finger, or napkin, 
from the outer angle or corner of the eyes inward, above 
and below the eyeball, toward the nose. This tends 
slightly to round up” the eyes, and thus to preserve or 
restore the sight. It should be done every time the eyes 
are washed, or oftener. 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


35 


It is said that many persons, by this last means, have 
preserved their sight, so as to read very small print, at 
eighty years of age; and that others, whose sight had been 
impaired by age or excessive use, have, in like manner, 
restored their sight and been able to dispense with the use 
of glasses, and have since preserved it by a daily continu¬ 
ance of the practice. It must be remembered, however, 
that, to be successful or safe, great gentleness and cau¬ 
tion must be observed. Violence, or rough pressure, must 
be carefully avoided. 

Diseases of the Eyes. 

Squinting—^‘strabismus’’ of medical writers—when 
not depending on any organic peculiarity, is commonly 
acquired in childhood by silly efforts to look singular, or 
by imitating others. When one eye only is affected, it is 
recommended to blindfold the sound eye for several hours 
daily, until the affection be removed. When both eyes 
are affected, a projecting piece of pasteboard, in the line 
of the nose, worn for several hours daily, will generally 
effect a cure. In bad cases of ‘‘squinting inward,” as it 
is called, the division of the internal rectus muscle of the 
eyeball—an operation that must be performed by a skill¬ 
ful surgeon—is said often to relieve the deformity. 

Inflammation of the eye—“opthalmia” or “opthal- 
mitis” of medical writers—in ordinary cases is confined to 
the external membrane of the eyeball, or to the eyelids; 
but it occasionally attacks deeper-seated portions of the 
eye, and assumes a corresponding serious character. 

The common causes of ordinary or conjunctival opthal¬ 
mia are exposure of the organ to cold, drying winds, to 
dust, gritty particles, irritating fumes, or to any external 
source of irritation or injury. 

In every variety of opthalmia, the eye should be kept 
clean by careful and frequent ablution with warm water, 
or warm milk and watex*. 


36 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


The msiligiiant forms of opthalmia often produce in¬ 
tense suffering, ending in total blindness, and are highly 
contagious. 

In blear-eye—"'lippitudo”—there is an exudation of 
purulent matter from the margins of the eyelids, which 
are red, humid, and somewhat painful; and frequently, 
during the night, glued together by the discharge. Mild 
astringent eye-waters are here also the best applications. 
Excess in eating and drinking should likewise be avoided, 
and some aperient medicine taken. 

Weak, watery eyes may be strengthened by frequently 
bathing them, at first with tepid water, and afterward 
with cooler water, the temperature being daily lowered 
until perfectly cold water be used. 

Eed or blood-shot eyes, when not depending on organic 
lesion or visceral disease, are usually produced by dissipa¬ 
tion, gluttony, or excessive drinking or smoking. The 
only remedy known is the abandonment of the vicious 
habits on which the evil depends. 

The small inflamed tumor or boil, called a sty, which 
sometimes forms at the edge of the eyelid, though incon¬ 
venient and painful, is not dangerous. A bread poultice, 
to which a little olive oil has been added, promotes sup¬ 
puration and helps it to run its course. 

The darkness or discoloration round the eyes, frequently 
observable in females, and which is sometimes permanent, 
but more frequently periodical, is either constitutional or 
depends on certain conditions of health, and occurs and 
disappears with them. In the fashionable world, the aid 
of the cosmetic art is not uncommonly called in to dis¬ 
guise these discolorations. A little French chalk or talc, 
in impalpable powder, is rubbed on the part and then 
gently dusted off” with a camel’s-hair pencil or a tuft 
of badger’s hair, or the excess is blown off with the 
breath. A little of the same powder that has been very 
slightly tinted with rouge or carmine is next applied, the 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


37 


excess being removed as before. The application of the 
pencil to clear the edges of the eyelashes, and of the cor¬ 
ner of a soft napkin to ‘‘tone down ” the outer margins 
of the parts treated, finishes the operation. 

The effects of dust, dirt, acrid fames, and other irritat¬ 
ing substances on the eyes, may be met by freely bathing 
them in warm water, or by the use of the eye-douche. 
Gently raising the eyelid with the fingers, and holding it 
apart from the eye for a short time, will generally cause 
a copious discharge of tears, which will wash away the 
offending matter and relieve the irritation. 

COLOE. 

Theories have been based on even the particular color 
of the eyes. Thus it is said that dark-blue eyes are found 
chiefly in persons of delicate, refined, or effeminate mental 
character: light-blue eyes, and more particularly gray 
eyes, in the hardy and active; hazel eyes in the masculine, 
'vigorous, and profound; black eyes in those whose energy 
is of a desultory or remittent character, and who exhibit 
fickleness in pursuits and affection; greenish eyes, it is 
asserted, have the same general meaning as gray eyes, 
with the addition of selfishness, or a sinister disposition. 
These statements, however, though based on some general 
truths, and supported by popular opinion, are liable to so 
many exceptions as to be unreliable and valueless in their 
individual applications. 

Eyelashes and Brows. 

The beauty of the eyelashes consists chiefly in their length 
and silkiness. These qualities may be promoted by occa¬ 
sionally “topping’’ them with a pair of sharp scissors. 
The practice is most effective when commenced in early 
childhood. The least possible portion of their extremi¬ 
ties should be removed; and the operation, to be neatly 
done, must be performed by a second person. 


38 l^EW YORK FASfilOK BAZAR 

The eyebrows, unlike the eyelashes, should never be 
cut, or in any way subjected to the action of the scissors 
or razor. Tiicir beauty consists in their being smooth, 
glossy, and well-defined, in havinglittle breadth vertically, 
and in extending in a graceful, arched line over the eyes. 
Cutting them ultimately destroys these qualities, by caus¬ 
ing them to grow coarse, stiff, and irregular. After wash¬ 
ing the face, the fingers or napkin should be passed over 
them to smooth them and to set the hairs in their places. 
This is all that is required. Some ladies, however, when 
making their toilet, pass the finger, very slightly moist¬ 
ened with oil or pommade, over the eyebrows, to darken 
them and give them gloss; but the practice is not to be 
recommended. An occasional gray or prominent bristly 
hair in the eyebrows may be plucked out with the tweezers. 
It should never be cut off, as is the common practice. 

Dyeing. 

Persons who dye their hair or beards are very apt to 
meddle with the eyebrows, and often produce effects con¬ 
trary to their intentions, and far from pleasing. This is 
nearly always the case with persons of a light complexion, 
or who are pale, either from confinement in-doors or from 
ill health. It is true that Oriental ladies darken their 
eyebrows to enhance their charms; but then it must be 
recollected that their hair is naturally black or dark, and 
that the tone of their complexions corresponds. Any in¬ 
terference with the natural color of the eyebrows should, 
therefore, be limited to merely brightening and slightly 
darkening them. Attempts beyond this generally end in 
discomfiture. 

The toilet of the forehead is limited chiefly to the ar¬ 
rangement of the hair. The possessor of a beautiful fore¬ 
head is seldom disposed to conceal any portion of it, or to 
modify its apparent form by such means. The practice 
of wearing the hair over portions of the forehead naturally 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


39 


bare is prejudicial to the health of the head and to the 
vigor of the mind. The contrary practice of throwing or 
fixing the hair in unnatural positions, backward from the 
forehead, is equally objectionable. The defects of an ill- 
formed forehead may, in general, be rendered less appar¬ 
ent, and often wholly obscured, by an appropriate arrange¬ 
ment of the hair about it—a matter in which the taste of 
the individual and the example of others will be the best 
guides. 

The beauty of the face depends chiefly on its several 
features being pleasingly molded and in ‘^perfect keep¬ 
ing ” with each other, as noticed in a former portion of 
this volume. Without this proportion between the indi¬ 
vidual features, the most delicate complexion, the bright¬ 
est eyes, the softest cheeks, the flnely molded mouth, and 
the ruddiest lips, may fail to charm, and, by contrast, 
may even disfigure where they should adorn. It is this 
excellence of proportion that constitutes one of the chief 
elements of personal beauty. 


CHAPTER VII. 

THE HAIR. 

If there is one point upon which the taste of all man¬ 
kind seems fixed, it is in the appreciation of the beauty of 
rich, luxuriant, glossy hair. The hair is not only valua¬ 
ble as a protective covering of the head, but it is an es¬ 
sential auxiliary to the highest personal beauty. Sculptors 
and painters have bestowed on its representation their 
highest skill and care, and its description and praises have 
been sung in the noblest verse: 

“Oh, wondrous, wondrous, is her hair; 

A braided wealth of golden brown. 

That drops on neck and temples bare.” 



40 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

In modern times, the estimation in which a beautiful 
head of hair is held, is probably as great as at any period 
of history. It is still regarded as an important ingredient 
in manly beauty, and as one of the very essentials of fem¬ 
inine loveliness and fascination. All persons are proud of 
it—all covet it—all admire it. Indeed, it may be truly 
' said, that all persons, except the most indolent, vulgar, 
and degraded, are more or less sedulous in their endeav¬ 
ors, in private, to improve their hair; and by tasteful ai- 
rangement to set it off to the best advantage. 

Formation and Structure. 

The formation and physical structure of the hair is very 
complicated and beautiful. On careful and minute in¬ 
spection, it is seen to consist of elongated horny filaments, 
or tubes, which derive their elasticity and flexibility from 
their attenuated form. It is secreted and formed by cer¬ 
tain minute conical-shaped glands called the “ hair- 
bulbs,” and certain vessels called the hair-capsules,” 
both of which are lodged in the network of the cutis or 
true skin. 

The hair is kept in a state of vitality by the fluids that 
pervade the pith or central tube and by glands around the 
base of the hairs which secrete oily matter, keeping the 
skin soft and permeable, and the hair soft, flexible and 
glossy. The hair contains gelatine and two different kinds 
of oily matter—the one white and common to all hair, the 
other colored and giving the hair, by the aid of mineral 
substances also found in it, its particular color. Light- 
colored hair contains magnesiad; black hair, iron and sul¬ 
phur. 

Human hair is perennial; and unless its connection 
with the skin be severed by violence, the effects of disease, 
or the premature decay of the hair-bulbs from any of the 
numerous causes liable to affect them, it preserves much 
of its vigor and integrity to a late period of life. In most 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


41 


animals the hair is deciduous, and is cast annually; but 
not in man. 


Growth ahd Decay. 

Ill infancy and early childhood the hair is generally 
pale, soft, thin, and very flexible. As the age increases, 
it gradually becomes more abundant, darker, coarser, and 
stiffer. In healthy youth and early maturity it reaches its 
prime, or state of greatest luxuriance and beauty; and 
thus it continues for some years, in a nearly stationary 
condition. Then it usually gradually, very gradually, be¬ 
comes thinner and weaker, and slowly loses its glossiness 
and some of its color. Next, owing to the decreasing 
vigor of the circulation of the scalp, and its attenuation 
consequent on the progress of life, the hair commences 
falling off from the crown of the head, and soon afterward 
from the partings, which widen and become more con¬ 
spicuous. The comb and brush may now be perceived to 
remove a greater number of weak hairs than heretofore, 
the place of which is not filled up by fresh ones, as for¬ 
merly. This state may continue for some years, or even 
until a late period of life, the hair merely gradually get¬ 
ting weaker and sparser, and the crown more extensively 
bald; but usually more marked changes occur. About, or 
soon after the middle age, and sometimes even before it, 
gray hairs begin to appear. At first they are few in num¬ 
ber, and far apart; but time soon multiplies them, and in 
a few years they become sufficiently numerous to affect 
the general hue of the hair. 

It may be laid down as a law, to which there are no ex¬ 
ceptions, that the vigor, luxuriance, and beauty of the 
hair, uniformly correspond to the state of health of the 
scalp from which it grows. Whilst the scalp is soft and 
thick, and the blood circulates with healthy vigor through 
its vessels, as is the case in youth and the early years of 
maturity, the hair-glands and capsules have ample space 


42 


ICEW ifOEK EASHlOK BAZAR 


to exist and to work in, and ample materials in the shape 
of healthy arterial blood, out of which to elaborate their 
secretions. It is during this state that the hair reaches 
its highest degree of luxuriance and beauty; and it main¬ 
tains these as long as the health and vigor of the scalp 
continue. As soon as the vigor of the circulation in the 
scalp begins to decline, whether from age, disease, or 
other causes, it suffers gradual attenuation. The func¬ 
tions of the air-bulbs are thus more or less impeded, and 
as the attenuation proceeds, they are ultimately arrested 
altogether. The former produces weak, thin hair; the 
last, baldness. The smoothness, thinness, and partial 
transparency of the bald scalp of the aged has probably 
been observed by the reader. 

MAITAGEMEifT. 

The management of the hair, under the ordinary con¬ 
ditions of life and .health, like that of the skin, is ex¬ 
tremely simple, and should be either based on principles 
derived from the physiological facts already presented to 
the reader, or of a nature that will not interfere with the 
healthy functions of the hair-producing organs. Tlie 
chief of these, and, indeed, the essential ones, involve 
the necessity of keeping both the hair and the skin of the 
head perfectly clean, and the former arranged in the 
direction in which it naturally lies, subject only to such 
little deviations as may be necessary to adapt it to the 
position in which it is usually worn; and this arrange¬ 
ment and position should be constantly followed on each 
occasion of dressing it. 

The hair, after a preliminary application of the coarser 
end of the comb, should be gently and assiduously 
brushed downward in all directions around the head, 
until it is rendered quite smooth and apparently free 
from scurf. If the hair be very long, or entangled or 
matted together, the preliminary use of the comb may bo 


BOOK OP THP TOILET. 


43 


dispensed with; as it may be more easily reduced to order 
with the brush alone and with less strain upon the hair. 
The motion of the brush may now be changed until it is 
in a direction upon end or across the head. This does 
not exert any strain upon the hair of the crown of the 
head and is useful in removing all the scurf that escaped 
tlie first brushing. A similar gradual change in the mo¬ 
tion of the hand to the direction in which the brush was 
first used, will restore the hair to its former position, and 
again smoothly and equally distribute it around the head 
from the crown downward. Now is the time to apply 
oil or pomade, if any be used; but this will be unneces¬ 
sary if the scalp be thoroughly healthy and the liair lux¬ 
uriant, as in this case the natural supply of oily matter, 
secreted by the glands at the base of the hair will alone 
be sufficient to keep it soft and glossy. Two or three or 
at most four drops of oil or pomatum is amply sufficient 
for the purpose when used daily; and this quantity can¬ 
not be exceeded without inconvenience and without prov¬ 
ing injurious to the scalp. Having placed a little of the 
oil or pomade in the palm of the left hand spread it 
equally over the inner surface of both hands by rubbing 
them together. The object is to diffuse the oil over the 
whole surface of the hair without touching the skin of 
the head. The oily matter having been rubbed over the 
hair, its further distribution may be effected by the brush. 
Tlien curling-tongs or crimping-irons may be used if de¬ 
sirable. The hair may be parted and adjusted with the 
coarser end of the comb and tlien well brushed to give it 
smoothness and set. In the case of long hair in curls 
and ringlets or in any other state that it may be unde¬ 
sirable to disarrange, the portion of the hair so circum¬ 
stanced may be protected by the left hand whilst the 
brush is applied with the right, by which its inversion 
and disarrangement will be prevented. If curl-papers or 
papillotes be employed, it will, perhaps, be better to give 


44 


KEW YORK EASHIOK BAZAR 


the hair a thorough brushing in the way described before 
using them. 

Natural curliness or waviness of the hair is not affected 
by brushing, but rather increased by it. Nor does wash¬ 
ing or wetting the hair destroy it. It is only necessary 
subsequently to place the locks in a favorable position 
with the fingers or comb for them to resume their curly 
or wavy form immediately. 

The oftener the comb and brush are subsequently used 
in the day, the better it will be for the luxuriance, 
smoothness, and set of the hair.- This mode of treating 
the hair is the one that should be preferred when it is de¬ 
sired that it should present an easy, flowing appearance, 
and be gracefully affected by the motions of the head and 
body. 

The other method referred to is equally simple, and of 
very general application, and it is particularly adapted to 
the use of ladies and others who wear their hair in arti¬ 
ficial styles, and in positions wdiich it cannot easily be 
made to assume and retain by the common mode of dress¬ 
ing it. The hair-brush having been freed from loose hair 
with the comb, and from scurf, by passing it smartly two 
or three times across the side of the extended hand—or, 
what is better, a fresh clean brush, kept for the purpose, 
being taken—it should be slightly dipjied into water, or 
into rosemary-water or rosemary-tea, or any other simple 
liquid, and, the excess of water having been shaken out 
of it, applied to the hair, which should be brushed with 
it, until the latter is slightly moistened all over. In this 
state the hair should be parted and adjusted with the 
comb in the usual position or style of dressing it. A 
small piece of soft flannel that has been-dipped in water 
or any other simple liquid, and then squeezed out, or the 
moistened brush, if now passed over its surface, will im- 
l>art further smoothness and gloss to it, if it be thought 
desirable; after which it may be finally readjusted with 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


45 


the comb, if necessary. In a few minutes it will become 
dry. The hair may be thus dressed in any style but curls 
or ringlets, and put into any position, however artificial, 
and which it will retain during the day as perfectly as if 
it were fixed with bandoline, unless it be disturbed or 
ruffled with actual violence. Should this happen, the 
moistened flannel or brush will again restore it. Or the 
hair may be treated hy the previous method, at will, pro¬ 
vided its set and adjustment be not interfered with. The 
latter should only be done when it is again washed or 
moistened. 

Such are the outlines of two modes of dressing the hair 
which recommend themselves, not merely on account of 
their simplicity and effectiveness, but also from their be¬ 
ing compatible with the healthy functions of the scalp, 
and, indeed, promotive of them. Their minor details 
may be varied to suit individual tastes and cases. If a 
night-cap is worn, it should be made of some light ma¬ 
terial, the lighter the better, and of easy fit; the object 
in persons with abundance of hair wearing a night-cap 
being merely to prevent the displacement of the hair in 
bed, and not warmth. Any strain or pressure on the 
hair should be removed before putting on the night-cap. 
Braids, plaits, puffs, etc., that distort the natural set of 
the hair or press upon the head should be unloosed. 

Treatment of the Scalp. 

Besides the daily attention to the hair, something else 
is necessary to insure its cleanliness and beauty, and the 
perfect health of the skin of the head from which it 
springs. For this purpose the head should be occasion¬ 
ally washed with soap and water. The head is most easi¬ 
ly washed with a piece of soft flannel; particularly at the 
partings, where generally it is dirtiest. An abundance of 
water should be used, and great care taken to thoroughly 
yinse out the whole of the soap with the same water with 


4G 


NEW YOIIK FASHION BAZAR 


which the liejid has been washed. The rinsing is best ef¬ 
fected by holding tlie head over a tub or basin and pour¬ 
ing the water over it. The water may be tepid or coid, 
according to the feeling or habit of the person. Tlie best 
mode of wiping long hair to prevent entangling it, is to 
move the towel or napkin in a direction from the roots 
toward the end of the hair, continually forming fresh 
partings until the whole is dry. The popular dread of 
catching cold from washing or wetting the hair is ground¬ 
less, provided draughts be avoided. Wetting the hair 
with bay-rum, cologne water or brandy increases the lia¬ 
bility to cold, unless the head be lightly covered to pre¬ 
vent the effects of rapid evaporation that at once com¬ 
mences when they are applied. The hair in ordinary 
cases should be washed once a week; but if the head be 
much exposed to dirt and dust, or is very scurfy, or if 
perspiration is excessive, it should be washed more fre¬ 
quently. 

The extreme length of ladies’ hair will sometimes ren¬ 
der the process of washing it very troublesome and incon¬ 
venient; in sucli cases the patient and assiduous use of a 
clean, good hair-brush, followed by washing the partings 
and the crown of the head with soap and water, may be 
substituted. 

The occasional washing of the head is absolutely nec¬ 
essary to preserve the health of the scalp, and the luxu¬ 
riance and beauty of the hair*, when much oil, pomatum, 
or other greasy substance is used in dressing it; and this 
for reasons that will be given hereafter. 

Toilet Articles. 

And here something may be said on the choice and use 
of certain toilet articles employed to dress the hair, since 
on these greatly depend their efficiency and the advan¬ 
tages, or disadvantages, to be derived fi-orn them. 

The dressing-comb should have its teeth equally divid- 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


47 


ed ijito two sets—the one, rather large and open, for loos¬ 
ening and disentangling the hair, for bringing it into 
partial order, and for finally adjusting it when it is de¬ 
sired to impart to it the appearance of small, divided 
locks; the other, with smaller and finer, but not very fine 
teeth, to be used after the coarser end, and in the final ad¬ 
justment along with the brush. Care should be taken that 
the material of which the comb is formed,, and the shape 
of the teeth, particularly at their points and edges, be 
such as to adapt the instrument to pass easily through the 
hair, without scratching the skin of the head, or drag¬ 
gling the hair out by the roots. 

Use of the Brush. 

Brushes also should be selected with care. Very rough, 
coarse, scratching brushes carelessly used injure the hair 
and skin of head, especially where the hair is long and 
luxuriant or thick. A good brush is formed of moderately 
long and fine, and rather stiff, unbleached, and undyed 
hair; and the points of the hair should present such 
slight differences of elevation that they will penetrate to 
the skin, on which they should exert friction, without feel¬ 
ing unpleasantly rough, scratchy, or irritating. In use, 
it should not be struck down hard and roughly on the 
head, and dragged downward with haste and violence; on 
the contrary, it should be applied gently, and the motion 
of the hand during its use should be lively, but equally 
gentle. The common practice, too, of over-brushing the 
crown and partings, and neglecting the other parts of the 
head, should be avoided as being fraught with ill conse¬ 
quences. Those parts which are the most thickly covered 
with hair need the most brushing. 

Hair-brushes rapidly get dirty, and hence should be 
frequently cleaned. Loose hair may be removed by the 
coarse part of the comb, and loose scurf by rubbing and 
beating them. This should be done every time they are 


48 NEW YOKE FASHION BAZAR 

used. They may be further cleaned by rubbing them 
well with a coarse towel. To do this completely, they 
should be washed in warm soap and water, to which a 
little soda, or carbonate of ammonia, may be added; after 
which they should be rinsed in clean water, rubbed on a 
towel, and left to dry. A final rinsing in a little weak 
alum-water, from which they should be merely shaken 
(and not wiped), will increase the stiffness of the hair. 

In applying either the brush or comb to the hair, when 
disordered or entangled, its effectiveness is increased, and 
the strain on the hair lessened, by holding it with the 
points of the hair, or the teeth, much inclined toward the 
roots of the hair, and only gradually erecting it as the 
impediments to its action are removed. When the hair 
is matted, or much entangled, the application of a little 
oil before using the comb and brush will be found useful. 

The hair should be adjusted or dressed as far as possi¬ 
ble in conformity with its natural set. Combing it or 
braiding it in an opposite direction injures it and leads 
to its premature and often rapid decay. The practice, 
now so common among children, of turning the hair from 
the forehead and temples toward the back of the head, 
and keeping it tightly secured in that position, is hence 
highly objectionable. 

The ill consequences of strains on the hair, and pressure 
on the head cannot be too often pointed out. 

Cutting the Hair. 

The cutting of the hair is another point connected with 
its management which is generally very little understood; 
yet there is not merely artistic skill required to do tliis 
becomingly and beneficially, but also the application of 
principles founded on a knowledge of the growth and 
structure of the hair. As a rule, hair-cutters and hair¬ 
dressers are ignorant of these principles, and conduct 
their operations in a very carelea? way, immediate effect 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


49 


in reference to the personal appearance being the only 
object which they aim at. Thus, according to the com¬ 
mon practice, the strong luxuriant hairs of tlie lower por¬ 
tions of the head get unduly shortened, whilst the weaker, 
and probably the decaying hairs of the crown and around 
tlie partings, are left of extreme length, and often not 
cropped at all. Now, if there be anything serviceable in 
strengthening weak and decaying hairs, it is frequent 
cutting, and being kept moderately short. But such 
hairs grow feebly, and are of inferior length to their 
vigorous neighbors, which thus, in general, overtop and 
conceal them, and sliield them from the scissors of the 
hair-cutter, who, indeed, neither thinks of them, nor 
takes the trouble of looking for them. 

When the hair is ill supplied with the natural oily se¬ 
cretion at its base—a defect that generally arises from the 
long-continued use of oil or grease—a small, very small 
quantity of either of these articles will be found amply 
sufficient, provided it be properly diffused over and 
through the hair with the brush. 

Pomatum, Grease, etc. 

The immediate effects and the results of the excessive 
use of oil, pomatum, grease, hair-cream, or other greasy 
article, is to coat the hair, and the skin of the scalp in 
which the hair grows, with a^filrn of greasy matter, which 
excludes the genial action of the air from both of them, 
and which relaxes the texture of the last, chokes up its 
perspiratory pores, and deranges its natural functions. 
The oil or grease thus used soon grows rancid, if it be 
not already so before its application; and then it acts as a 
corrosive irritant, inducing excessive scurfiness, and, at 
length, actual disease of the scalp. During vigorous 
health, the luxuriant hair of youth, and of the earlier 
years of maturity, will bear much mismanagement, and 
even ill-usage, without exhibiting immediate deteriora- 


50 


ITEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


tion; but the evil day approaches, and comes at last un¬ 
expectedly. The results may be anticipated. The hair 
becomes gradually weaker, loses its color and tractability, 
and falls into a state of premature decay. As soon as this 
decline of the hair is perceived, its infatuated owner 
usually treats it to increased doses of oil or pomade or 
some patent hair tonic still more injurious. Under such 
treatment the hair-bulbs wither and premature gray hair 
and baldness are the inevitable result. 

Liquid oils appear to be more congenial to the hair and 
scalp than solid ones. Among these oils the olive and the 
almond hold the first place; among pomades, the softer 
fat of the ox and the calf, clarified beef marrow, veal suet, 
and recent hog’s lard are to be preferred. The rich part 
of the end of the rump appears to be superior to any 
other part as a hair cosmetic. The addition of wax to 
oils or fats, to give them greater consistence, renders 
them more ^‘clogging,” and thus, also, more objection¬ 
able. Other common instances of the mismanagement of 
the hair are afforded in the use of cosmetics to increase 
its glossiness, to change its natural color, to fix it in un¬ 
natural positions, and the like—none of which are ben¬ 
eficial to the hair, or even harmless; whilst many of the 
articles so employed are highly injurious in themselves, 
and are generally rendered more so by the clumsy and 
reckless manner in which they are employed. 

The preceding modes of managing the hair are all that 
is required whilst it is in a healthy and luxuriant slate, 
and they are also adapted to preserve it so, and to retard 
its decay when this has commenced, provided they be 
supported by due attention to the general health, regular 
habits, and careful avoidance of such articles of head¬ 
dress, and such use of them, as are prejudicial to the hair. 
Stimulation. 

To improve the growth and luxuriance of the hair, 
when languid or defective, the only natural and perfectly 


BOOK OF THE TOlLEB. 


51 


safe method that can be adopted is to promote the healthy 
action of tlie skin of tlie scalp by increasing the vigor of 
the circulation of the blood through its minute vessels. 
For this purpose nothing is so simple and efficacious as 
continued friction with the hair-brush. The same object 
may be further promoted by the application of any simple 
cosmetic, wash, or other preparation that will gently ex¬ 
cite and stimulate the skin, or exercise a tonic action on 
it, without clogging its pores. Strong rosemary-water, 
or rosemary-tea, and a weak solution of the essential oil 
of either rosemary or thyme are popular articles of this 
kind. They may be rendered more stimulating by the 
addition of a little ammonia or spirits, or both. The skin 
of the head sliould be moistened with them on each occa¬ 
sion of dressing the hair, and their diffusion and action 
promoted by the use of a clean hair-brush. Aromatized 
water, to which a very little tincture or vinegar of can- 
tharides (preferably the former) has been added, may 
also be used in the same way, and is in high repute for 
the purpose When the skin is pale, lax, and wrinkled, 
astringent washes may be used. Strong black tea is a 
convenient and excellent ap})lication of this kind. When 
the skin and hair are dry, and the latter also stiff and un- 
tractable, a little glycerine is an appropriate addition to 
each of the preceding washes or lotions. The occasional 
use of a little bland oil strongly scented -with oil of rose¬ 
mary or of origanum, or with both of them, or with oil 
of mace, or very slightly tinctured with cantharides, is 
also generally very serviceable when there is poorness and 
dryness of the hair. When the hair is unnaturally greasy 
and lax—a defect that seldom occurs—the use of tho 
astringent washes just referred to, or of a little simple oil 
slightly scented with the essential oil of bitter almonds, 
will tend to remove or to lessen it. 

All the articles named above promote the glossiness 
and waviness of the hair, and are also among the simplest, 


62 


KEW YORK EASHIOK BAZAR 


safest, and best applications that can be employed when 
the hair is weak and begins to fall off. 

How TO Curl. 

To impart some degree of curliness or waviness to the 
hair when it is naturally straight, and to render it more 
retentive of the curl imparted to it by papers, or by other 
modes of dressing it, various methods are often adopted, 
and different cosmetics employed. The first object ap¬ 
pears to be promoted by keeping the hair, for a time, in a 
state intermediate between perfect dryness and humidity, 
from which different parts of its structure, being un¬ 
equally affected in this respect, will acqffire different de¬ 
grees of relaxation and rigidity, and thus have a tendency 
to assume a wavy or slightly curly form, provided the 
hair be left loose enough to allow it. For this purpose 
nothing is better than washing tlie hair with soap and 
water to which a few grains of salt of tartar (carbonate of 
potash) have been added; or it may be slightly moistened 
with any of the liair-washes mentioned in the last par¬ 
agraph, in each half pint of which a few grains (say 10 to 
12) of the carbonate, or a teaspoonful of glycerine, has 
been dissolved. The moistened hair, after the applica¬ 
tion of the brush, should be finally loosely adjusted, as 
desired, with the dressing-comb. The effect occurs as 
the hair dries. When oils are preferred to hair-washes, 
those strongly scented with oil of rosemary, to which a 
few drops of oil of thyme or origanum may be added, ap¬ 
pear to be the most useful. 

A crisped, or a kind of wavy corrugated appearance, of 
some permanency, is sometimes given to living human 
hair by a modification of the process applied by the pelt- 
mongers and felt-manufacturers to certain furs, and called 
‘‘secretage ” by the French. The hair is moistened for 
rather more than half its length with the secretage liquid, 
care being taken that neither the liquid, nor the hair, 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


53 


until it has been subsequently washed, touches the skin. 
The operation is conducted before a fire, or in a current 
of warm air, so that the hair may dry as quickly as possi¬ 
ble. The moistened hair is loosely adjusted into the de¬ 
sired positions, or into one favorable for its contraction, 
or, when partly dry, it is ‘‘put up” in greased curl-pa¬ 
pers. In a few hours, or sooner, the hair is washed in 
tt'pid water (without soap), dried, and slightly oiled. 
On being now gently combed and bruslied, it generally 
shrinks up into small crisped or wavy locks; and it will 
generally retain this property for two or three weeks, or 
even much longer. This process is highly objectionable, 
as, owing to the corrosive nature of the acid liquid em¬ 
ployed in it, it cannot be otherwise than injurious to the 
hair, and, as a consequence, must hasten its decay. 

* Cosmetics. 

To cause the hair to retain the position given to it in 
dressing it, various methods and cosmetics are commonly 
employed. When the arrangement is a natural one, and 
the hair healthy and tractable, the free use of the hair¬ 
brush will usually be sufficient for the purpose. When 
this is insufficient, the application of a few drops of oil, 
or, better still, moistening the hair with a little simple 
water, will effect the object satisfactorily. In very elab¬ 
orate and unnatural styles of dressing the hair, and to 
cause it to remain in curl or to retain its position during 
dancing or violent exercise, bandoline, fixateur, and cos- 
metique, or hard pomatum, are the articles commonly 
employed in fashionable life. Mild ale or porter has a 
similar effect, and is often substituted for the preceding 
expensive cosmetics. The frequent use of any of these 
articles is objectionable, as they clog up the pores of the 
skin, and shield both it and the hair from the genial ac¬ 
tion of the atmosphere, which is essential to their healthy 
vigor. They should hence be subsequently removed by 


54 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

carefully washing the head with a little soap and tepid 
water. Their use may be tolerated in dressing for the 
ball-room, but on no other occasion. Simple water, skill¬ 
fully employed, as noticed elsewhere, is the best and saf¬ 
est fixateur, and, under ordinary circumstances, is amply 
sufficent for the purpose. 

Changing the Color. 

The practice of artificially changing the color of the 
hair, and particularly of dyeing it, has descended to us 
from remote antiquity; and though not so common in 
western Europe as formerly, is still far from infrequent at 
the present day. The recent rage after light auburn and 
reddish hair, in fashionable life, has greatly multiplied 
these instances. 

To change the color of the hair, various methods and 
preparations are employed. The principal of these are 
intended to darken it; but, sometimes, the contrary is 
aimed at. Whichever object is desired, it is necessary 
that the article or preparation employed to carry it out 
be not of a caustic or irritant nature, capable of injuri¬ 
ously affecting the delicate skin to which it is to be ap¬ 
plied, or that it may be liable to come into contact with, 
as is the case with many of the nostrums vended for the 
purpose. Some of tlie substances that necessarily enter 
into the composition of hair-stains and hair-dyes, or that 
are used in connection with them, possess these objection¬ 
able properties in a high degree, and can, therefore, only 
be safely employed in a state of proper dilution and com¬ 
bination. If any doubt exists respecting such an article, 
it is a wise precaution to regard it with suspicion, and to 
test its qualities before applying it for the first time. This 
may be done by placing some of it on the soft skin of the 
inner side of the wrist or fore-arm, and allowing it to re¬ 
main there as long, and under the same conditions, as it 
is oi’dered to be left in contact with the hair or skin of 


BOOK OB THB TOILET. 


55 


the head or face. In tliis way, the injury or loss of the 
liair, sores, and other serious consequences, that too often 
follow the use of ill-prepared hair-dyes may be generally 
avoided. 


Chemical Substances of the Hair. 

The methods adopted to darken the color of the hair 
should be, theoretically, as much as possible, in aid or in 
imitation of the process employed by nature herself; but 
as this cannot be very closely carried out in practice, par¬ 
ticularly when rapid results are desired, the judicious 
operator either avails himself of the known chemical con¬ 
stitution of the hair, or adopts some independent plan of 
acting on it, that little, or the least, interferes with its 
healthy functions and condition. It is known colored 
liair contains sulphur and traces of iron, and that dark 
hair, and black hair more particularly, contain the largest 
proportions of this metal. These substances are secreted 
in combination with oil, by the hair bulbs, and permeate 
the whole structure of the hair as long as its color and vi¬ 
tality lasts. Healthy light-colored hair contains sulphur, 
with only a tiace of iron, if any; in gray hair, even when 
otherwise vigorous, only traces of sulphur exist, and no 
iron; whilst in the white hair of senility, not even a trace 
of sulphur can be generally found. Iron and sulphur, 
then, may be regarded as the principal and essential, if 
not the only materials, on which the color of the hair de¬ 
pends. The loss of color which the hair suffers during 
gradual decay, appears to arise from an insufficient supply 
of these materials, that of the iron being the first to fail. 

■ Changing Color by Absorption. 

Availing ourselves of the preceding facts, we may safely 
and rationally attempt to darken the color of the hair by 
conveying to the hair bulbs, by means of the absorbent 
power of the skin, one or the other, or both of the mineral 


56 KEW YORK EASHIOK BAZAfi 

substances just mentioned, as the case may be. To carry 
out this plan with any probability of success, it will be 
necessary that the substances referred to be employed in 
a form adapted to permeate and to be absorbed by the 
sensitive skin, and to be appropriated by the hair-glands; 
and that, further, they be in a form and state of dilution 
incapable of injuriously affecting the minute and delicate 
structures with which they will come in contact. It is 
on the same principle that we are able to stain the bones 
of young animals by the administration of madder with 
their food. The process is slow in both instances, but it 
is usually slower with the hair than with the bones. Bis¬ 
muth, lead, copper, and two or three other metals, are 
each capable of darkening the hair by displacing the iron, 
or, rather, acting as a substitute for it, and are thus em¬ 
ployed in some of the fashionable hair-dyes; but their use 
is objectionable, as they act as poisons when absorbed into 
the general system, and, therefore, cannot be otherwise 
than injurious when applied for some length of time, or 
frequently, to the skin and hair. Iron, on the contrary, 
is known to exercise a genial tonic action on the various 
tissues; it is an essential constituent of the blood, and is 
present, in minute quantities, in almost every part of the 
body. 

Application' of Iron. 

To gradually darken the shade of the hair, on these 
principles, provided its normal sulphur be still secreted 
by the hair-bulbs, and be still present in its structure, it 
will, therefore, generally be sufficient to occasionally em¬ 
ploy a weak solution of any of the milder salts of iron* as 
a hair-wash. The menstruum may be water, to which a 

* As the sulphate, acetate, lactate, or protiodide. The addition 
of a very little glycerine is useful, and indeed necessary, when the 
last salt is employed. 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


57 


little spirit, and a few drops of oil of rosemary, to increase 
its stimulating qualities, have been added. In applying 
it, the head being first waslied clean, care should be taken 
to thoroughly moisten the whole surface of the hair and 
the skin of the head with the wash; and its absorption 
and action should be promoted by the free use of a clean 
hair-brush. Wine is the favorite solvent for the iron in 
fashionable life; ale and beer are also sometimes so em¬ 
ployed. Most of the fashionable ferruginous hair-washes 
also contain a few grains of acetate of copper or distilled 
verdigris, the objections to which have been already point¬ 
ed out. 

Dangerous Oils, etc. 

The daily use of oil, or pomatum, with which a few 
grains of carbonate of lead, lead-plaster, or trisnitrate of 
bismuth, have been blended by heat and and careful trit¬ 
uration, has generally a like effect on the hair to ferrugi¬ 
nous solutions; so also has a leaden comb, but its action is 
very uncertain, None of these last are, however, safe for 
long-continued use. Atrophy of the scalp, baldness, and 
even local paralysis, have sometimes, though rarely, been 
caused by them. 

When the normal sulphur of the hair is absent, or defi¬ 
cient, the preceding substances fail to darken the hair. 
In this case the desired effect may often be produced by 
also moistening the head (say) twice a week, with water 
to which a little sulphuret of potassium, or hydrosulphuret 
of ammonia, has been added. 

When it is desired to dye or darken the hair more 
rapidly, as in a few hours, or even a few minutes, plumb- 
ite of lime, plumbite of potassa, or nitrate or ammonio- 
nitrate of silver, is usually employed. The first is com¬ 
monly produced by the admixture of quick-lirne with 
oxide of lead (litharge), carbonate of lead, or acetate of 
lead. These ingredients should be in appropriate proper- 


58 


KEW YORK FASHION- BAZAR 


tions; but very generally the reverse is the case in those 
of the shops. It may be laid down as a rule, that when 
the lime is in greater proportion than about two to one of 
the oxide, and to the corresponding equivalents of the 
other substances mentioned, or when the lime has not 
been prepared in a proper manner, the compound is not 
safe, and very likely to prove injurious to the skin and 
hair-bulbs, and, perhaps, to act as a depilacory. Tlie ef¬ 
fects of these lead-dyes arise partly in tiie way previously 
described, and partly by direct chemical action between 
the sulphur of the hair and the lead which they contain, 
sulphuret of lead being formed in the surfacial portion of 
the hair. It is on the last that their more immediate ef¬ 
fect depends. If there be no sulphur in the hair, they 
will not darken it. After the necessary period of contact, 
they should be gently but thoroughly removed from the 
hair and skin by rubbing them off with the fingers, and 
by the use of the hair-brush, the head being then washed 
clean with tepid water. Should the tint imparted by 
them not be deep enough, or be too fiery, it may be 
darkened and turned on the brown or black by moisten¬ 
ing the hair the next day with a very weak solution of 
sulphuret of potassium or of hydrosulphuret of ammonia. 

None of the compounds of lead stain the skin, an ad¬ 
vantage which has led to a preference being given to 
them by many persons who are clumsy manipulators, and 
to the more extensive use of them than of other hair- 
dyes. 

Silver Solutions. 

The salts of silver above referred to are more rapid 
in their action as hair-dyes than those containing lead. It 
is only necesisary to wash the hair quite clean and free from 
grease, then to moisten it with a weak solution of one of 
them; and, lastly, to expose it to the light, to effect the 
object in view. Sunlight will fully darken it in a few 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


59 


minutes; but in diffused daylight it will take two or three 
hours, or longer, to acquire its deepest shade. To avoid 
this delay and inconvenience, the common practice is, a 
few minutes after applying the silver solution, to moisten 
or wet the hair with a weak solution of snlphuret of potas¬ 
sium, or of hydrosulphuret of ammonia. The effect is 
immediate, and the full depth of shade which a silver-solu¬ 
tion of the strength employed is capable of imparting, is 
at once produced. A few minutes later and the hair and 
skin may be rinsed with tepid water, gently wiped dry, 
and the hair finally adjusted with the comb. The ease 
of its application, its rapid action, and the satisfactory 
nature of the effect produced, all tend to render a solu¬ 
tion of nitrate of silver the favorite hair-dye of those who 
have sufficient skill and steadiness of hand to use it 
properly. 

Staining the Skin. 

It will be useful here to inform the reader, that all solu¬ 
tions and compounds which contain nitrate of silver, 
stain the skin as well as the hair, if they be allowed to 
touch it. These stains may be removed, when quite 
recent, by rubbing them with a piece of rag or sponge 
wetted with a weak solution of snlphuret of potassium, 
of hydrosulphuret of ammonia, or of iodide of potas¬ 
sium; but as this is attended with some trouble and in¬ 
convenience, the best way is to avoid the necessity of 
having recourse to it. The hair-dressers commonly adopt 
the plan of smearing hard pomatum or cosmetique over 
the skin immediately surrounding the hair to be operated 
upon, in order to protect it from the dye. By very skill¬ 
ful manipulation, and the observance of due precautions^ 
the hair may be thoroughly moistened with the silver- 
solution, without touching the adjacent skin; but this can 
only be done, when the hair of the head is under treat¬ 
ment, by a second party. 


60 


NEW YOKK FASHION BAZAR 


Pyrogallic acid, the juice of walnuts, and some other 
substances also stain the skin, though less intensely and 
permanently than the salts of silver. 

In reference to the tone and shades of color given by 
the substances commonly employed to dye the hair, it may 
be useful to state, that the shades given by preparations 
of iron and bismuth range from dark brown to black; 
those given by the salts of silver, from a fine natural chest¬ 
nut to deep brown and black, all of which are rich and un¬ 
exceptionable; those given by pyrogallic acid, rich browns 
of various shades; as are also those imparted by walnut- 
juice, though less rich and warm. The shades given by 
lead vary from reddish brown and auburn to black; and 
when pale, or when the dye has been badly applied or com¬ 
pounded, are generally of a sandy reddish hue, often far 
from agreeable. However, this tendency of the lead-dyes 
has recently led to their extensive use to impart that 
peculiar tint to the light hair of ladies and children which 
is now so fashionable. 

The reddish tint produced by lead, as already hinted, 
may be generally darkened into a brown, more or less rich, 
by subsequently moistening the hair with a weak solution 
of either sulphuret of potassium or of hydrosulphuret of 
ammonia. 

Kelation of Color to the Features. 

The depth of color, and the particular shade of it, in 
relation to the features and the complexion, are other 
matters which require the exercise of taste and judgment 
in interfering with the natural color of the hair. It may bo 
taken as a general rule, that the natural color of the hair, as 
of the eyes, during the earlier years of maturity, is that 
most appropriate to the individual; and that any material 
alteration of it, without at the same time altering the com¬ 
plexion, will be a change for the worse. Imagine the 
disagreeable effect that would result from changing the 


BOOK OF FEE TOILEF. 


Cl 


color of the pale hair of a bine-eyed blonde to a dark 
brown or blnck; or that surrounding thin but delicately 
molded features, in a similar manner. Sickliness, and 
even ghastliness, would replace the appearance of health 
in the face of the one, whilst an unnatural sharpness and 
wildness, and coarse expression, would invest the features 
of the other. In such cases, and, indeed, in all cases, tlie 
only real improvement, if any can be made, will be sim¬ 
ply brightening, or slightly, very slightly, darkening the 
shade of the natural tint of the hair, and imparting simi¬ 
larity of shade to any locks that may vary from the color 
of the rest, as is frequently the case with the beard. In 
after-life, when small tufts of gray or faded hairs appear 
among the darker ones, and often materially affect the 
personal appearance, this is commonly and rationally done. 
The faded or defective hair should, in all cases, be brought 
up to the tone or shade of the rest before the whole is in¬ 
terfered with; as, unless this be done, final uniformity of 
color—the chief object aimed at—cannot be produced. 

The new growths of hair that occur after the applica¬ 
tion of hair-dyes being of the original color, it will, of 
course, be necessary to occasionally treat them with the 
dye to preserve the uniformity of the tint of the whole 
hair. In general it will be found sufiicient to do this once 
every two or three weeks in warm weather, and about once 
a month in cold weather, the exact time depending on the 
rate at which the hair grows. 

The hair, or portions of it, particularly that of the face, 
is sometimes temporarily darkened by what may be called 
‘^painting’’ it. This is done by smearing a black or col¬ 
ored stick of hard pomatum or cosmetique over it until 
the desired color is given to it, and then slightly diffusing 
the color over the surface with the brush. The practice 
is a dirty and unnatural one, as the color is partially re¬ 
moved by everything it touches, and the mustache or 
beard is converted by it into a trap to catch the dust. It 


KEW YORK FASHlOK BAZAR 


is only to be tolerated when occasionally used by the 
fastidious to conceal a few straggling gray or faded hairs. 

The hair is sometimes rendered paler by artificial means, 
and, though very rarely, partially blanched or decolored. 
It will, however, be sufficient merely to allude to tiie sub¬ 
ject here; as neither can be done without serious damage 
to it, and the latter cannot be affected without consider¬ 
able risk and danger. Blanching the hair has occasionally 
been adopted by criminals with the intention of destroy¬ 
ing the evidence of their personal identity. 

Powder. 

The use of hair-pow’der may also be alluded to, as an¬ 
other mode of disguising the natural color of the hair. In 
its application, the hair is first rubbed with pomatum or 
fat, and the powder then dusted over it. 

The hair is subject to various deviations from the 
healthy standard, all of which, as already hinted, depend 
immediately on the state of the scalp from which it 
springs, and indirectly on various causes. Among them 
the following may claim a special notice: 

Decay. 

The gradual impoverishment and decay of the hair— 
shown by its becoming finer and thinner, with greater or 
less loss of its brightness and color, and a larger quantity 
than usual being removed on each application of the comb 
and brush—whether premature or the result of advancing 
life, is most likely to be arrested, or retarded, by atten¬ 
tion to the general health and habits, and careful avoid¬ 
ance of any article of head-dress or other matter which is 
known to be prejudicial to the hair. The special treat¬ 
ment may consist in daily, or as frequently as possible, 
washing the head in cold water, gently continued friction 
with the hair-brush, and the use of stimulating applica¬ 
tions, so as to produce a slight but sensible excitation of 


BOOK OK THE TOILET. 


63 


the skin of the scalp. Habitually disordered stomach, 
bowels, or nerves, and particularly biliousness and dys¬ 
pepsia, frequently affect the hair in this way, and should 
be met by medical treatment, of which antacids, and 
tonics, as quinine and iron, should generally form a part. 
Gray hair, in its early stages, may also be treated in ^ 
similar manner. 

Pbemature Loss. 

Gray hair and baldness depending on old age are natu¬ 
ral consequences of man’s infirmity, and must be regarded 
as evidence of failing vigor, rather than in the light of a 
disease. Premature loss of hair ma\ be produced by va¬ 
rious causes, some of which have been already noticed. It 
is common after severe fevers, and after erysipelas and 
other serious inflammatory affections of the scalp; and it 
is frequently caused by external pressure, friction, or vio¬ 
lence, want of the necessary exposure of the head to the 
air, and by such other local actions and conditions which, 
when long continued, interrupt the normal functions of 
the skin. Persons with a consumptive, scorbutic, scrofu¬ 
lous, or syphilitic taint, or of a general bad habit of body, 
are apt to lose their hair early. In these cases the loss 
probably arises from debility or paralysis of the vessels of 
the skin, and the consequent insufficient action and nu¬ 
trition of the hair-bulbs. Excessive anxiety or grief, and 
intense study and thoughtfulness, also tend to promote the 
early deeny and loss of the hair. The natural baldness of 
the aged, and frequently the premature baldness of earlier 
years, particularly in the studious and grief-worn, arises 
from the reduced energy of the circulation in the vessels 
of the scalp, and its consequent gradual attenuation, until 
it becomes too thin to afford sufficient space for the per¬ 
formance of the functions of the hair-bulbs and their as¬ 
sociated organs, and too scantily supplied with blood for 
their due nutrition and support. In such cases it will be 


64 HEW YORK FASHIOH BAZAR 

found that, owing to this attenuation, the scalp covers a 
larger portion of the skull than it previously did when 
vigorous; and that its sides have somewhat receded from 
the top of the head, so that the roots of the remaining 
hairs descend lower on the forehead, temples, and the 
sides and back of the neck, than formerly. This may be 
perceived by applying the open hand to the part, and 
then gently closing the fingers, wlien the scalp will be 
drawn into its original position, and will then appear 
loose and wrinkled over the upper portion of the head 
thus operated on; and this in a manner very different to 
what occurs when the top of the head is covered, or well 
covered, with hair. 

Since the introduction of waterproof clothing and silk- 
hats, and the very general use of tobacco by the scarcely 
mature portion of our population, early baldness has be¬ 
come so common, that it now ceases to attract attention. 

Eemedies. 

When the hair suffers a marked deterioration in quali¬ 
ty, and ceases to grow, or grows languidly, and falls off 
in large quantities without being replaced by new growths, 
particularly if, at the same time, the usual healthy forma¬ 
tion of scurf ceases, and the scalp looks pale, and ex¬ 
hibits a perceptible loss or diminution of its natural 
warmth, sensibility, softness, and plumpness, or, in other 
words, shows the usual signs of gradual attenuation, the 
approach of baldness may be suspected. It is now that 
remedial treatment has the best chance of success, and, if 
promptly and skillfully adopted, will generally arrest or 
greatly retard the progress of decay, and not infrequently 
restore the hair to its pristine condition. The treatment 
should be of the nature above mentioned. The frictions 
with the hair-brush should be more frequent and longer 
continued, and the daily ablutions in cold water more 
rigorously performed, or, what is better, replaced by a 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


65 


cold shower-bath taken on rising in the morning. When 
greasy preparations are used, it is advisable to wash the 
head with soap and water once a day. During this treat¬ 
ment the hair slionld be kept rather short by frequent 
cutting; and if no manifest improvement occurs in the 
course of three or four weeks, the head, or at least the 
upper portion of it, may be shaved once or twice a week, 
and a wig, or a scalp, worn for a time. The effect of 
keeping the hair short, or closely cropped or shaved, is to 
stimulate the hair-bulbs, and to cause them to spend on 
the stumps, and on the formation of new hair, the whole 
of the hair-producing and nutritive matter which would 
otherwise, for the most part, be taken up by the length 
of hair removed. Hence the remaining hair generally 
grows thicker, stiffer, and stronger, the oftener the razor 
or the scissors are employed, and new growths arise; and 
this frequently when all other means of restoring the 
hair fail. Besides this, friction and medicaments can be 
more conveniently applied to the skin when naked, than 
when covered with hair. 

The strength of the external applications for daily use, 
whether wash or lotion, oil or pomade, should be suffi¬ 
cient to produce a pleasant glow of warmth, and slight, 
very slight, rubefaction of the skin of the scalp, which 
should be promoted by gentle friction. Unless this oc¬ 
curs, and continues with little abatement during the in¬ 
terval between their application, they do no good what¬ 
ever. A proof of their favorable action is afforded by the 
scalp feeling warm to the hand when placed in contact 
with it. 

When there is actual baldness, the same treatment 
should be followed; but if the portion of the skin impli¬ 
cated be extensive, friction with the hand, a piece of flan- 
nel, or a coarse towel, will be preferable to that with the 
hair-brush. 

The favorite compounds for external use in baldness, 


66 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


and, perhaps, the most convenient and best, are such as 
owe their stimulating quality to cantharides or Spanish 
flies, or to their active principle, cantharidine. This ap¬ 
plication of these drug's has received tlie sanction of the 
highest medical authorities, both in Europe and America, 
including even Dupuytren himself. The leading profes¬ 
sional hair-restorers now rely almost exclusively on can¬ 
tharides, and all the more celebrated advertised nostrums 
for restoring the hair contain it as their active ingre¬ 
dient. 

Oils and pomades very strongly impregnated with the 
essential oils of garden-thyme (origanum) and rosemary, 
and lotions or liniments containing ammonia with a like 
addition of these essential oils, probably come next in the 
frequency of tlieir use as popular restoratives of the hair 
in actual and incipient baldness. 

Among active remedies for baldness, of less common 
use, may be mentioned mild streaming electricity, warm, 
stimulating fomentations and fumigations, croton-oil, 
ioduretted and phosphuretted oils and lotions, etc. 

It will be thus seen that the principle generally adopted, 
by both the professional man and the quack, in the treat¬ 
ment of loss of the hair and baldness, is essentially that 
of stimulation or excitation of the scalp. The celebrated 
Rev. John Wesley acted on it in his recommendation to 
rub the part morning and evening with a raw onion, until 
it becomes red, and then to apply a little honey.” 

As a mechanical aid in furtherance of other treatment, 
the use of a night-cap so contrived as to contract and lift, 
as it were, the relaxed scalp into its former dimensions 
and position, without injurious pressure on the head, may 
also be employed. 

The reader may now again be cautioned against placing 
any reliance on external applications, unless he assists 
their action by due attention to diet, exercise, ventilation, 
regular habits, and such other matters as tend to promote 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


67 


the general health and vigor of the body. He should also 
assist the action of external remedies by the use of appro¬ 
priate internal medicine. A course of tonic medicine, as 
quinine, or any of the milder chalybeates, preferably the 
first, ora combination of the two, is often most serviceable 
in restoring the hair, and is compatible with any other 
treatment. 


Ikcurable Baldness. 

The baldness of senility, and that arising from the ae- 
struction, or permanent injury, or disorganization of the 
hair-bulbs, admits of no cure. This kind of baldness is 
indicated by the scalp not being at all warmed and red¬ 
dened by gentle, continued friction, or by stimulating 
applications followed by friction. When this is observed, 
tlie case is hopeless, and it would be absolute folly to at¬ 
tempt to restore the hair. 

Gkay Hair, etc. 

Gray hairs, when occurring singly, and when few in 
number, or thinly scattered, may be removed with the 
tweezers, if their presence be objectionable; or they may 
be lifted from among the surrounding hair and moistened 
with a solution of nitrate of silver of sufficient strength 
to restore them to their former hue. 

Morbid dryness and intractability of the hair commonly 
arise from a defective action of the oil-glands. In some 
cases this defective action is occasioned by excessive per¬ 
spiration, in others, by the previous long and profuse use 
of crude or rancid oily or greasy substances; and, occa¬ 
sionally, by the action of strong soap or alkalies, which 
have been employed in washing the head, and not sub¬ 
sequently thoroughly removed by rinsing. The incon¬ 
venience may generally be obviated by the free use of the 
hair-brush, a stimulating wash containing a little glycer- 


68 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


ine, or a few drops of oil strongly scented with some 
stimulating aromatic, being also applied daily. 

Matting. 

Matting or felting of the hair depends on its peculiar 
structure. It frequently arises from long hair, when not 
daily combed, during sickness. The best mode of restor¬ 
ing the hair to order, in these cases, is to well oil it, and 
then to endeavor to free it from its state of combination 
by the patient use of the coarser end of the dressing- 
comb, beginning at the ends of the hairs. No force 
should be used, as the scalp is usually particularly liable 
to injury at such a time, and the hairs forcibly removed 
are frequently not replaced by fresh ones. To avoid this 
matting or entanglement, ladies, immediately prior to 
their accouchment, frequently have their long hair formed 
into loose soft plaits or braids, to the extent of about one 
half of its length. These braids may be easily removed 
and formed again, at any time; or the hair may be 
combed and brushed without disturbing them. 

SCURFINESS OF THE HaIR. 

Scurfiness of the hair, when of an ordinary and trifling 
character, is not a disease, but results from want of clean¬ 
liness, and particularly from the ncn-use, or insufficient 
use, of the hair-brush.^ Scurf—‘^furfur,’’ ‘‘furfura”— 
is a natural and healthy formation, and, within certain 
limits, is most abundantly produced when the hair grows 
most rapidly. It may be kept from accumulating,” 
but “it cannot be prevented.” This will show how 
futile any attempt must be which shall have for its object 
to prevent the formation of scurf. It may be removed, 
and should be removed, every day, with the hair-brush; 
but prevention is impossible, inasmuch as it is opposed to 
a law of nature. Excessive scurfiness is usually sympto¬ 
matic of an unhealthy state of the skin of the scalp, and 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


69 


should be treated accordingly. The daily use of any 
mild, stimulating detergent or astringent wash, will gen¬ 
erally remove, or greatly lessen, the annoyance. For this 
purpose nothing is better than strongly scented rosemary- 
water to which some spirit and a little tincture of can- 
tharides, or a few drops of liquor of ammonia, or both, 
have been added. It should be applied with a small, soft 
piece of sponge. Strong black tea is also a good wash 
for excessive scurfiness. If oil be preferred, it should be 
very strongly scented with oil of rosemary, thyme, or 
mace. 


Depilatories. 

Superfluous hairs may be removed either by the appli¬ 
cation of the tweezers, or by depilatories. When the 
former are used, a few hairs only must be pulled out, one 
at a time, daily, to avoid excessive irritation. The latter, 
according to their mode of action, are distinguished into 
mechanical depilatories and chemical depilatories. To 
the first belong highly adhesive plasters, which, on their 
forcible removal, bring away the hairs with them. A 
mixture of equal parts of pitch and common resin, spread 
on leather, is of this class. The chemical depilatories 
usually consist of, or contain as their active ingredients, 
the caustic earths (lime or baryta), and alkalies, or their 
sulphurets. Their action is upon the hair-bulbs and 
hair-capsules, the vitality of which they either wholly or 
partially destroy, at the same time that they dissolve off 
the hairs. Their successful use requires some skill and 
care, as, owing to their high causticity, they are liable to 
seriously aflect the skin, and, sometimes, to produce in¬ 
convenient sores which permanently mark it. Fortunate¬ 
ly there is no real occasion for employing such compounds, 
and “'why they are ever used,” is a question which vanity 
and fashion may be left to answer. Fortunately, also, the 
pain that accompanies their unskillful use and excessive 


70 


KEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


action, acts as a sort of monitor to lead to their removal 
from tlie part before their worst effects are produced. 
Tlie only safe way to use them is to apply tliem to merely 
a very small space at a time. Tlie addition of starch is 
commonly made to render the paste more adliesive and 
manageable. 

To clean the partings of the hair, when dirty, nothing 
is better than soap and water applied with a small piece 
of flannel or sponge. The cosmetic washes sold for the 
purpose by the perfumers, under various high-sounding 
names, usually consist of water holding in solution a 
small quantity of salt of tartar, or of carbonate of am¬ 
monia, variously scented and colored. A little borax 
dissolved in rosemary-water, forms a good wash of this 
kind. They should all be lastly removed from the part¬ 
ings with clean water and the sponge or toweL 


CHAPTER VIIL 

THE NOSE. 

Among refined nations, and even in the fashionable 
world, the nose may be regarded as one of the most fort¬ 
unate of the features; since it almost uniformly escapes 
being interfered with at the toilet, further than simple 
cleanliness requires. This is precisely as it should be, for 
no interference with it, after childhood, can advanta¬ 
geously modify its form or promote its beauty. The nose, 
with the air-passages connected with it, always resents 
interference and mistreatment, whether there be frequent 
meddling with it with the fingers, blowing it frequently 
with ungracious violence, exciting it with stimulants, or 
choking it up with irritating powders. The ill effects of 
such treatment soon become perceptible, as may be fre¬ 
quently observed in irritable children and youth, and m- 



BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


71 


veterate snuff-takers. In the last, both the form of the 
nostrils and the tone of voice suffer. Heavy blows and 
pressure on the nose rapidly deform it, and destroy its 
beauty. 

Chahge of Shape. 

In early childhood, owing to the soft nature of the 
cartilages that form the nostrils, the shape of the lower 
part of the nose may generally be slightly modified by 
gentle, continued pressure. Thus, a nose disagreeably 
wide or spreading at its base, by being very gently and 
very slightly compressed for a few hours daily, may be re¬ 
duced to smaller dimensions, but beyond this nothing 
should be attempted. 

Hemorkhage. 

Bleeding from the nose is a matter that may claim a 
passing notice. When it is not the result of a blow or 
other violence, it is frequently an effort of nature to re¬ 
lieve the vessels of the neighboring parts from an excess 
of blood, and, in this case, will generally cease of itself in 
a short time. When it is habitual, or the result of vio¬ 
lence, or excessive and persistent, remedial measures 
should be had recourse to. A simple means of arresting 
the hemorrhage is to introduce, by means of a probe, a 
small piece of lint or soft cotton, previously dipped in some 
mild styptic liquid, as a solution of alum or creosote, 
strong black tea, or even very cold water. Should this 
not succeed, a little of one of these liquids may be snuff¬ 
ed up the nostrils, or a small piece of ice placed in the one 
from which the blood flows. If the bleeding still con¬ 
tinues, and is profuse, surgical aid should be called in. 

The Mouth. 

A beautiful mouth is one that is moderately small, and 
has a well-defined and graceful outline; and beautiful lips 
are such as are gracefully molded, neither thick nor thin. 


72 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


nor compressed nor loose, and are endowed with expres¬ 
sion, and tinted with the hues of health. The lips are very 
liable to suffer from exposure to cold and drying winds. 
The most common effects are chapped lips, and an ery¬ 
sipelatous eruption consisting of small clusters of minute 
vesicles, which soon become moist from the discharge of 
the watery humor which they contain. 

Chaps. 

Chapped lips most frequently occur in persons with 
pale, bluish, moist lips, and a languid circulation, who 
are much exposed to the wind in dry cold weather, or 
who are continually moving from heated apartments to 
the external air. East and north-east winds are those 
that generally produce them. The occasional applica¬ 
tion of a little cold-cream, lip-salve, spermaceti ointment, 
or any other mild unguent, will generally prevent them, 
and remove them when they have already formed. A 
still more elegant and effective preventive and remedy is 
glycerine diluted with about twice its weight of eau-de- 
rose, or glycerinated lip-salve or balsam. 

The moist vesicular eruption of the lips, referred to 
above, may also generally be prevented by the use of 
glycerine, or any of the preparations just mentioned. 
After its accession, the best treatment is to freely dust 
the affected portion of the lips with violet-powder, finely 
powdered starch, prepared chalk, or French chalk or talc 
reduced to an impalpable powder by scraping or grating it. 

Pustular and scabby eruptions of the lips may be 
treated by moistening them, twice or thrice a day, with 
a weak glycerinated lotion of bichloride of mercury or 
sulphate of zinc. 

The Teeth. 

The influence which the feeth are capable of exercising 
on the personal appearance is universally known and 
admitted. A beautiful set of teeth is one in which the 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


73 


teeth are compact and regular, and smooth, and pearly 
white, and in which the front ones, at least, are moder¬ 
ately small. 

The teeth have formed especial objects of attention, in 
connection with the toilet and cosmetic arts, from almost 
the earliest ages of the world to the present time. 

Early Care. 

During childhood and youth the teeth demand par¬ 
ticular care and attention, as at this period they are very 
easily affected by violence, being meddled with, and 
improper use, by which their beauty, regularity, and 
strength, may be permanently impaired. They are also 
liable, from these causes, and sometimes without any 
apparent cause, to cross or press on each other, by which 
they are forced out of their natural positions, and grow 
unequal and irregular. In such cases dentists frequently 
insert ligatures or wedges of gold, platinum, silk, or 
India-rubber, between the teeth. 

Preservation. 

The preservation of the teeth is an object of the utmost 
importance; since, besides their immediate connection 
with the personal appearance, their integrity is highly 
subservient to health, owing to their use in preparing the 
food for the subsequent process of digestion. Unfortu¬ 
nately the teeth are either wholly neglected, or veiy im¬ 
properly treated, by the mass of mankind; and even those 
who are most attentive to their teeth, and who highly 
value their beauty, direct their efforts mainly to render- 
ing the front teeth white, because these are seen when we 
speak, smile, or eat. A thought respecting their peima- 
nent preservation scarcely arises until their decay com¬ 
mences and warns them of their approaching failure or 
loss. Yet the preservation of the teeth, and the perma¬ 
nent promotion of their beauty, are nearly synonymous 


14 : KEW YORK EAsaiOK BAZAR 

terms. The subject deserves the serious consideration of 
every one. 

Management. 

The rational management of the teeth consists essen¬ 
tially in thorough cleanliness, and the avoidance, as much 
as possible, of the use of beverages, condiments, and arti¬ 
cles of food generally, that exert an injurious action on 
them, or on the gums. Among the substances referred to, 
are all those of a sour, or acid, or corrosive nature, in¬ 
cluding acid piquant sauces, pickles, sour fruits and pre¬ 
serves, salads seasoned with vinegar, and the like; to which 
also must be added medicines containing acids or acid- 
salts, or any salt in which a strong acid is united to a 
weak base. When such articles are. eaten, or taken, it is 
advisable either to clean the teeth, or to rinse the moutli 
with pure water, as soon afterward as possible. The use 
of hot food aud liquids is also very prejudicial to the teeth 
and gums; and this more so in youth and early maturity 
that in after-life. Overtaxing the teeth, and frequently 
exerting them on hard, tough, or gritty substances, or in 
biting substances so thin or slender that their cutcing 
edges are brought into immediate contact and act on each 
other, are other practices which rapidly tend to injure 
them and to wear them out. Allowing particles of animal 
or vegetable food to remain in the interstices of the teeth, 
or in cracks or hollows in them, is particularly objection¬ 
able; as the first, from the heat of the mouth, in a short 
time generate a rancid acrimony, and the other an acidity, 
which not merely render the breath offensive, but rapidly 
corrode the teeth. Such particles should be removed by 
the toothpick immediately after every meal. 

Manner oe Breathing. 

Keeping the lips apart and breathing through the 
mouth, instead of the nose, and particularly sleeping with 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


75 


the mouth open, are habits which are very prejudicial to 
the teeth and gums. In this way the mouth forms a trap 
to catch the dust and.gritty particles floating in tlie at¬ 
mosphere, wliich soon meclianically injure the enamel of 
the teeth by attrition; the saliva, by the evaporation of 
its aqueous particles, becomes inspissated, and, by tlie 
action of the oxygen of the air, its ptyaline suffers decom¬ 
position, its natural alkalinity is lost, and it grows 
slightly acid and corrosive. Particles of matter accumu¬ 
lated around the necks and in the cracks and interstices 
of the teeth, from the same exposure, suffer rapid decom¬ 
position, tainting the breath as it passes through and over 
them. Further, the membranes covering the gums, and 
lining the lips, mouth, and fauces, at the same time lose 
their natural delicacy and healthy character, growing un¬ 
pleasantly parched and stiff, so that speech becomes diffi¬ 
cult and imperfect until the parts are again lubricated 
with saliva by the action of the tongue. It is on this ac¬ 
count that snuff-taking is so injurious to the teeth. 
Snuffers generally breathe through the mouth while 
awake, and uniformly do so when asleep. Besides which, 
snuffing acts injuriously by reducing the powers of the 
stomach. 

The nostrils are the natural channels of respiration in 
man, and in most other mammals. Breathing through 
the mouth, when avoidable, is, therefore, unnatural; and 
being unnatural, must also be unfavorable to health. 
Besides exposing those who do so to many inconveniences, 
particularly increased liability to infectious diseases, it 
gives a more or less vacant expression to the features, 
which, in exaggerated cases, is sometimes almost idiotic. 

Cleanliness. 

On the subject of cleanliness in connection with the 
teeth and mouth, it may be said that the mouth cannot 
be too frequently rinsed during the day, and that it 


76 KEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

should be more particularly so treated after every meal. 
Pure cold water is the best for the purpose. It not only 
cleans the teeth and mouth, but exerts a tonic action on 
the gums, which warm water, or oven tepid water, is de¬ 
ficient in. When cold water cannot be tolerated, tepid 
water may be employed, the temperature being slightly 
lowered once every week or ten days, until cold water can 
be borne. The addition of a few drops of spirit of cam¬ 
phor, or essence of camphor, to the water thus employed, 
is highly serviceable; as camphor, by its antiseptic and 
anodyne properties, and its odor, tends to arrest decay, 
allay tenderness and pain, and correct the fetor of the 
breath. Where convenience permits, it is advisable to 
clean the teeth night and morning, and after dinner, or 
the principal meal of the day. When, as is frequently 
the case with the great mass of mankind, the only oppor¬ 
tunities of attending to the teeth are those at the morning 
toilet and before retiring to rest, these should be taken 
advantage of for that purpose. At all events, every one 
who abhors a fetid breath, rotten teeth, and the tooth¬ 
ache, would do well to thoroughly clean his teeth at bed¬ 
time, observing to well rinse the mouth with cold water 
on rising in the morning, and again in the day once, or 
oftener, as the opportunities occur. With smokers, the 
use of the tooth-brush the last thing at night is almost 
obligatory, if they value their teeth, and wisli to avoid 
the unpleasant flavor and sensation which teeth fouled 
with tobacco smoke occasion in the mouth on awaking in 
the morning. 

The operation of cleaning the teeth, like all other 
operations of the toilet, should be carefully performed, 
and in as effective a manner as possible. The mode in 
which it is commonly done is worse than useless, and is 
not infrequently very injurious to the teeth and gums. 
To do it well and thoroughly, the action of the tooth¬ 
brush should not be confined to the visible portion of the 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


77 


front teeth, but every portion of both the upper and 
under teeth, back and front, and on the inner as well as 
the outer sides, and the crowns should receive attention. 
Unless all this be done, the use of tlie brush can effect ' 
little in the way of thorough cleanliness, correction of the 
odor of the breath, and the preservation of the teeth. 
Further, great care should be taken to avoid violence to - 
the gums. If these bleed, or feel sore, real injury is done 
them by the operation. In such cases it will generally be 
found that the brush has been clumsily applied, or is of a 
coarse, inferior quality, or that the tooth-powder or other 
cosmetic used with the brush is of an acrid or gritty 
nature. 

Personal attention to the teeth should commence in 
early life. As soon as the permanent teeth begin to ap¬ 
pear, a child should be taught to rinse its teeth and 
mouth with water after every meal, or two or three times 
daily. In another twelvemonth or two years, or as soon 
as it is capable of properly using a tooth-brush, one 
should be given it, and at the same time it should be in¬ 
structed in the mode of employing it and the importance 
of doing so. A little later, and’some simple tooth-pow¬ 
der may be added to its little collection of toilet requisites. 
Some watching and further instruction may be necessary; 
but by the time early youth commences, attention to the 
teeth "will have grown into a pleasurable habit which will 
cling to the individual for life. 

Tooth-powders, etc. 

As to tooth-powders or tooth-pastes to be used with the 
brush, the simplest are the best. Plain camphorated 
chalk, with or without a little finely powdered pumice- 
stone or burnt hartshorn, is a popular and excellent tooth- 
powder. It is capable of exerting sufficient friction under 
the brush to insure pearly whiteness of the teeth without 
injuring the enamel; whilst the camphor in it tends to 


78 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


destroy the animalcules in tlie secretions of the mouth, 
whose skeletons or remains constitute, as we shall pres¬ 
ently see, the incrustation popularly called tartar ” or 
“fur,” Powdered Castile soap forms another simple 
tooth-powder, which, besides other excellent qualities, 
perhaps exceeds all other substances in its powers of de¬ 
stroying^ the minute beings just referred to, and removing 
the tartar resulting from their presence. Kecently burnt 
charcoal, in very fine powder, is another popular and ex¬ 
cellent tooth-powder, which, without injuring the enamel, 
is sufficiently gritty to clean the teeth and remove the tar¬ 
tar from them, and possesses the advantage of also re¬ 
moving the offensive odor arising from rotten teeth and 
from decomposing organic matter. The charcoal of the 
heavy, hard woods—as lignum-vitse, box-wood, oak—is 
the best; and these, as to quality, range in the order here 
given. Still more valuable as a dentifrice is areca-nut 
charcoal, which, besides possessing the properties of the 
other vegetable charcoals in an eminent degree, has in¬ 
valuable ones peculiar to itself. 

In the choice of tooth-cosmetics the greatest care 
should be taken to avoid those which contain gritty, 
acrid, or irritating substances; as the two first act injuri¬ 
ously on the teeth, and the last on the gums. 

Some dentists, and some persons in imitation of them, 
in order to whiten the teeth, rub their surfaces with 
liydrochloric acid, somewhat dilute; but the practice is a 
most dangerous one, which, by a few repetitions, will 
sometimes utterly destroy the enamel, and lead to the 
rapid decay of all the teeth so treated. Should the teeth be 
much discolored, and ordinary tooth-powder prove inef¬ 
fective, a little lemon-juice, used with the brush, will 
generally render them perfectly white. It should only 
be employed occasionally, and the mouth should be well 
rinsed with water immediately afterward. A little of 
the pulp of an orange, used in the same way, is also very 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


79 


effective and safe; as are also ripe strawberries, which 
may be either rubbed on the teeth with the finger, or ap¬ 
plied with the brush. The last form, perhaps, the very 
best natural dentifrice known. Besides possessing singu¬ 
lar power in whitening and cleaning the teeth, and rapidly 
removing tartar, they destroy the offensive odor of rotten 
teeth, and impart an agreeable fragrance to the breath. 
Oranges and strawberries are also useful in removing fur 
from the tongue. 

The importance of a judicious attention to the teeth, 
in connection with health, cleanliness, and personal com¬ 
fort and appearance, cannot be too often alluded to and 
enforced. Yet, notwithstanding its importance, there is, 
perhaps, no part of our toilet duties which are so gener¬ 
ally neglected, or so carelessly performed, as those relat¬ 
ing to the teeth. 

It is a well-known fact that dirty teeth are very liable 
to premature decay. The decomposing animal and vege¬ 
table matter accumulated between and about them, and 
particularly around their necks or throats, rapidly cor¬ 
rodes them, and gradually impairs their vitality. The 
enamel suffers. It becomes brittle, cracks, and here and 
there chips off, exposing the inner poVtion of tlie tooth, 
in which decay immediately commences. The gums suf¬ 
fer, lose their adhesion, and shrink back, exposing the 
necks of the teeth to every unfavorable influence. Mi¬ 
nute cracks in the enamel widen into fissures, and places 
where it is chipped or worn off become unpleasantly 
rough or scratchy to the tongue. Soon caries in one or 
more of the teeth actively sets in, there is rapid loss of 
substance, the nerve becomes exposed to the air and cold, 
violent twinges of toothache follow, attention is directed 
to the part, and surprise is expressed at the discovery of a 
hollow or rotten tooth. The same thing occurs after a 
time with another tooth; and again, at intervals, until 
several are destroyed or rendered useless. 


80 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

Biid teeth and defective sets of teeth, owing to the 
resulting inability to properly masticate the food, are 
fertile causes of dyspepsia or indigestion, heartburn, 
diarrhea, worms, and the like. So, on the other hand, 
dyspepsia, and some other affections of the stomach, 
frequently occasion toothache and premature decay of 
the teeth. 

As a further incentive to cleanliness and care of the 
teeth and mouth, it may be added, that the mucus of the 
mouth commonly contains those microscopic creatures 
known as infusorial animacules, and that, when foul, it is 
crowded with millions of them. 

Influence of Food. 

Independently of the direct action on the teeth exerted 
by substances taken by the mouth, before noticed, the 
nature of our food, through the functions of nutrition, 
has much to do with their beauty, strength, and dura¬ 
bility. This is particularly the case during the whole 
period of their development and growth. The mineral 
constituents of the teeth are essentially identical with 
those of the bones. It is therefore evident that, if a suf¬ 
ficiency of bone-matter be not contained in our food, the 
teeth will be ill-developed and feeble. Children and 
youth brought up on brown bread have almost uniformly 
good teeth, and retain them to a late period of life. On 
the other hand, the inhabitants of cities who eat white 
bread, are constant sufferers from weak teeth, rotten 
teeth, dyspepsia, and toothache. The people of the 
north of Europe eat coarse black bread, and dentists and 
dentistry are unknown among them. 

The popular notion, that sugar and sweets injure the 
teeth, is, like many other popular notions, incorrect. 
On the contrary, pure sugar and confections whiten and 
preserve the teeth. Let those who believe the former 
unfounded assertion vi^^t the sugar-plantations, and look 


BOOK OP THP TOILET. 


81 


at the negroes and their children, whose teeth are daily 
employed in the mastication of sugar, and they will be 
convinced of the statement. 

Toothache. 

The toothache is an affection which need not be de¬ 
scribed. There is no disease to which the human frame 
is subject more excruciating or intolerable, or which more 
completely incapacitates a person from business or pleasure, 
than the toothache. It commonly arises from mistreat¬ 
ment or neglect of the teeth, caries, or disordered stomach, 
or exposure to sudden changes of temperature or cold. 
When it arises from either of the two first causes, after its 
removal by any of the means mentioned below, its recur¬ 
rence may generally be prevented by the daily use of 
strongly camphorated tooth-powder, followed, after a time, 
with a like use of areca-nut charcoal. When a disordered 
stomach is the cause, saline purgatives may be adminis¬ 
tered or, if the stomach be loaded with indigestible matter, 
it should be first cleared by an emetic. When cold is the 
cause, an excellent remedy is a warm embrocation of 
poppy-heads, followed by the use of flannel and diapho¬ 
retics. When it arises from a hollow or decayed tooth, 
one of the best applications is a small piece of lint moist¬ 
ened with creosote, or with a strong spirituous solution 
of creosote, which should be closely rammed into the 
cavity, or, where this is impossible, pressed against the 
tooth and gum. The essential oils of cloves, caraway, 
and cajeput, are also often effective when used in the 
same way. A few drops of the essence or concentrated 
tincture of pellitory of Spain,* either simple or cam¬ 
phorated, applied by means of lint to the tooth and gum, 
will frequently succeed when the other articles just men¬ 
tioned fail. To prevent the recurrence of the attack, the 

* Radix pyrethri, Lat.; Pyrctlirum, Pli. L. and E. 


82 KEW YOEK FASHiOK BAZAH 

cavity, or carious portion, should be carefully filled with 
amalgam of gold, or with some durable mineral cement. 

In cases of ordinary toothache, even severe ones, chew¬ 
ing a small piece of really good pellitory will often give 
relief in a few minutes. Chewing a piece of strong un¬ 
bleached Jamaica ginger will often do the same, in slight 
cases. The celebrated John Wesley recommended a few 
whiffs’’ at a pipe containing a little caraway-seed mixed 
with tobacco, as a simple and ready means of curing the 
toothache. 

A slight shock of electricity passed through an aching 
tooth will generally instantly remove the pain, even after 
all other means have failed. 

Those annoying little sores or tumors popularly called 
gum*boils, generally arise from heat of the mouth and 
disordered stomach. When mature, they should be rupt¬ 
ured by gentle pressure with the finger, or opened witli 
a lancet. To prevent their recurrence the diet should 
be iegulated, and a dose of aperient medicine taken occa¬ 
sionally. 

Foul Beeath. 

Foulness of the tongue, and particularly furred tongue, 
are noticeable here on account of their effects on the 
breath. They are both indicative of disordered health, 
and the last, of a feverish condition of the system which 
requires medical treatment. The free use of fruit, and 
particularly of oranges and strawberries, is the best local 
means of removing them. 

Scarcely anything is more disagreeable, and, in marked 
cases, more disgusting, than fetid breath. It is un¬ 
pleasant to the person that has it, and it renders him 
unfit for the society of others. The cause of stinking 
breath may generally be traced to rotten teeth, diseased 
stomach, or worms. When the first are the cause, the 
teeth should be thoroughly cleansed, and then ‘‘stopped” 


BOOK OS' THE TOILET. 


83 


in the manner already indicated; or, when this is imprac¬ 
ticable, the offending tooth, or teeth, may be removed, 
and replaced by artificial ones. When this cannot be 
done, or is inconvenient, the evil may be greatly lessened 
by the frequent use of an antiseptic tooth-powder, as 
areca-nut charcoal, or camphorated chalk. Dirty teeth, 
even when quite sound, always more or less taint the 
breath. When a foul or a diseased stomach is the cause, 
mild aperients should be administered; and, if these do 
not succeed, an emetic may be given, scrupulous cleanli¬ 
ness of the teeth being observed, as in the former case. 
When worms are the cause, worm-medicine, under medical 
direction, will be necessary. 

Such are the only rational means of rectifying the odor 
of the breath; but various others have been proposed to 
remove the annoyance, depending chiefly on the adminis¬ 
tration of aromatics, which, by their odor, smother that 
of the breath for a time; but these require continual rep¬ 
etition, and are liable to derange the stomach. Highly 
aromatized or scented lozenges, tablets, and globules, 
and cachou aromatise are thus commonly employed, those 
containing oil of cloves, musk, orris, or neroli, being most 
esteemed. One, two, or three of these lozenges, etc., are 
slowly sucked at will. Occasionally rinsing the mouth 
with a little water to which a few drops of solution of 
chloride of lime, or of chloride of soda, have been added, 
is often an effective method; but in this case, the mouth 
should be immediately afterward rinsed with pure water. 
The use of spirit of camphor, in the same way, has been 
already pointed out. It is less effective than the chlorides 
referred to, but has the advantage of being perfectly 
harmless. 

The Chih. 

The chin is a feature on which little need be said. It 
has been remarTied, that '' it is grievous to allow abeauti- 


84 KEW YORK FASHIOK BAZAR 

fill chin to be covered by the beard.’’ Perhaps it is so, 
but this must depend on the taste of its happy possessor. 
The defects of an ill-formed or ungraceful chin may be 
generally obscured, either wholly or in part, by wearing 
the beard in an appropriate manner; and this, too, must be 
left to personal taste, which, in such cases, ought to be a 
sufficient guide. Thus, a chin unduly long, or wide, may 
be easily concealed by the adjustment of the beard that 
covers it; and one unduly prominent, by a similar ar¬ 
rangement, assisted by the mustache. 

Of the beard, whiskers, imperials, and mustache, like 
the chin, little need be said here. The cultivation and 
cut of any one or more of them, and the use or non-use of 
the razor altogether, are matters entirely depending on 
personal taste and caprice, and on the prevailing fashion 
of the times. 

The Ears. 

The ears are the only parts of the head and face that re¬ 
main to be noticed. Moderately small and gracefully formed 
ears add greatly to the charms of person. In some per¬ 
sons the back and upper lobes of the ears form a consider¬ 
able angle with the sides of the face. This may often be 
observed in females, having been caused by the practice 
of placing the hair behind the ears in childhood. The 
peculiarity is easily remedied, during early life, by wear¬ 
ing through the night a soft bandage round the head, so 
arranged as to restore the ears to their natural position. 

The practice of wearing ear-rings is traceable to remote 
antiquity. 

Piercing. 

The operation of piercing the ears ” to fit them for 
holding ear-rings, is generally a harmless one; but it is 
not always so. In persons prone to erysipelas it has oc¬ 
casionally been known, when clumsily performed, to cause 
sufficient irritation to bring on an attack of this disease. 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


85 


To be safe, the portion of the ring or pendant held in 
the ear should be of gold, and of not less than eighteen 
carats fine. When formed of base metal it is almost sure 
to ‘‘canker” the ear; and even when made of inferior al¬ 
loys of gold it sometimes causes inconvenience. 

The ear is subject to numerous affections, but a notice 
of them, being purely medical or surgical, does not come 
within the province of the present work. It should never 
be meddled with, as it is so delicate that its functions as 
the organ of hearing are easily impaired. The use of ear¬ 
drops, and of other like advertised nostrums, should be 
avoided as dangerous. In all affections of it, functional 
or local, the advice of a qualified surgeon or aurist should 
be early sought. Deafness commonly causes a peculiar 
cast of features, and a carriage of the head, which are far 
from pleasing. 


CHAPTER IX. 

THE BODY. 

Of the shoulders, it may be observed that, in woman, 
those are the most beautiful which are neither wide nor 
meanly narrow, and which droop or flow, as it were, into 
the arms in a graceful undulating curve. In man, broad 
shoulders, if well proportioned, are a sign of strength. 
Stays or corsets, worn in youth and early maturity, tend 
to make the shoulders high and broad; and thus distort, 
instead of improve, the figure. 

The Chest. 

The chest—the “thorax” of anatomists—extends from 
the neck to the abdomen. Its bony structure includes 
the breast-bone or “ sternum,” and all the other bones in 
front, from the collar-bone to the lowest of the short ribs. 
In its cavity are contained the lungs and the heart, and 
some other most important viscera and organs. Its front 



86 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


portion forms the bosom; and here it is that those won¬ 
drous glands which constitute the female breast are 
situate. The evils resulting from pressure and improper 
clothing on parts so delicate, complicated and important, 
have been already pointed out when speaking of dress, 
and will be again alluded to below. 

Sore Breasts. 

Sore breasts, wdiich occasionally occur during the early 
days of maternity, are of so painful and distressing a 
nature that every effort should be made by both the 
mother and the nurse to prevent their appearance. In 
general, they arise from the injudicious use of stimulants 
and improper food, and from the infant not being placed 
early enough at the breast, or from its not having 
sufficient strength to properly perform the duty assigned 
to it by nature; to which also must be added inattention 
to the bowels. In some cases, keeping the patient too 
warm and in an ill-ventilated apartment are other and 
additional causes. The necessary precautions to be 
observed to prevent the occurrence of sore breasts are 
therefore evident. When pain, hardness or lumpiness 
appears, it should be at once brought under the notice of 
the surgeon attending the case. In the absence of med¬ 
ical or surgical aid, gentle, continued friction with the 
hand, or with a little warm salad oil, may be had recourse 
to, and will generally, in favorable cases, prove successful. 
A mild aperient should at the same time be given, and 
the diet carefully regulated, everything of a heating 
or stimulating character, whether of food or drink, being 
carefully avoided. Should the infant be incapable of the 
task, the breasts should be regularly drawn by the mouth 
of the nurse, or some child or friend, or by the breast- 
pump. In bad cases these means often prove unavailing, 
suppuration commences, and active professional treat¬ 
ment is required. 


BOOK OB THE TOILER. 


8^ 


Sore nipples are also very distressing, though much 
less so, and much less serious in their nature, than tl)e 
affection just alluded to. The most common form in 
which they occur is that termed ^‘chapped nipples’’ by 
nurses. Preventive measures should form part of the 
daily toilet duties of every female for some weeks prior to 
her accouchment. For this purpose the parts may be 
moistened, morning and evening, with a little brandy or 
rum, or a little strong black tea, all of which is improved 
bv the addition of about a teaspoonful of glycerine to the 
wine-glassful. Where a known disposition to chapped 
nipples exists, brandy very slightly soured with dilute 
sulphuric acid, and used in the same way, often proves an 
effective preventive. Some persons employ tincture of 
tolu, or compound tincture of benzoin, for this purpose. 

When chaps, cracks or like sores, arising from lactation, 
are once developed, one of the safest and most effective 
remedies is tincture of catechu, or a strong tincture 
formed by steeping black tea for some days in brandy, 
to each ounce of which about half a teaspoonful of 
glycerine should be added. It should be applied by 
means of a camel-hair pencil, or tlie tip of the finger, at 
least three or four times a day after the removal of tlie 
child from the breast. Lotions containing lead, and 
nipple shields of lead, though popular nostrums and 
effective remedies, are open to objection, as, unless the 
greatest possible care be taken to subsequently wash the 
part, a minute portion of the remedy may remain con¬ 
cealed in the pores and cracks of the skin and be sucked 
off by the infant, to the serious disturbance of its healbli, 
and perhaps to its permanent injury. 

The Waist. 

The waist is strictly the smaller part of the trunk of the 
body, situate between the bottom of the ribs and the 
hips; but loosely, as^ applied to the form of modern 


88 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


females, it includes the whole of the trunk between the 
hips and the bottom of the breast-bone. The zone or 
waist of healthy and symmetrically formed women not 
exceeding the middle stature, when this part has not been 
injudiciously interfered with, is found to measure twenty- 
eight to twenty-nine inches in circumference. In no case 
with women of graceful figure and vigorous health, does 
it, as a rule, fall below twenty-seven inches, and any 
decrease in the measurement below this point is either 
indicative of imperfect natural development of this 
important portion of the body, or of its growth having 
been artificially arrested during youth and early maturity 
by compression. Every fraction of an inch that the zone 
of the adult female wants of this standard may thus be 
regarded as material points tending to the deterioration 
of her health and the natural beauty of her figure. Yet 
most women do not permit themselves to exceed twenty- 
four inches round the waist, whilst tens of thousands 
lace themselves down to twenty-two inches, and many 
deluded victims of fashion and vanity to twenty-one and 
even to twenty inches. Thus, by means of whalebone, 
wood, steel and hooks and laces, the waist and lower 
portion of the chest are often reduced to one-half their 
proper size, with all the consequences which must neces¬ 
sarily follow such unnatural and suicidal treatment. 

The waist of nature and beauty, irrespective of dimen¬ 
sions and appropriateness, varies from the waist of art 
and fashion in those essential points of excellence—sym¬ 
metry and form. The former is of a beautiful oval, with 
the shorter diameter running from the back to the front; 
the other is nearly cylindrical, and, if it has slight ellip- 
ticity, this is the reverse of that provided by nature. 
Thus it is that the compressed waist, when viewed in 
front, appears actually smaller than it really is. The 
injurious action of the tight lacing by means of corsets 
on the health of females, and the distortion of the 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


89 


waist, are not the only evils that are referable to their 
use. Regarding merely their influence on the flgure, it 
may be mentioned that, besides their effects on tlie waist, 
they retard or prevent the natural development of the 
bosom, and, as already hinted, force up the shoulders, 
causing them to grow high, broad, round, and ungrace¬ 
ful. Then again, in many habits of body, they occasion 
flushings, and even permanent discolorations and blotches 
of the face. Redness of the nose, and acne of the fore¬ 
head, are not at all infrequent consequences of tight 
lacing. Surely these are neither promotive of beauty nor 
compatible with it. 

Splay Root. 

Splay foot is caused by the giving way, or the congeni¬ 
tal laxity of the ligaments which support the arch of the 
foot. 

Treatment: The feet should be bathed in cold water 
daily. The boots and slippers must be fltted with a 
convex pad, so as to support the arch of the foot. The 
patient should have a webbing strap passed round the leg 
just above the knee. A bandage should be sewed on to 
one side of this, carried down the leg under the arch, and 
brought up on the other side and fastened to the strap; 
this will also assist in supporting the arch. 

Turning Feet in and Outward. 

The proper position of the feet in relation to each othei 
is an angle of about 45 degrees, the vertex of the angle 
being formed by the heels. 

Turning the toes in, or too much outward, is, if talipes 
do not exist, the result of habit, and can be cured by vol¬ 
untary efforts. 

Weak Ankles. 

Treatment’. The patient’s boots should be made with 
the inner edge of the sole and heel much thicker than 


90 


NEW YOKE FASHION BAZAR 


the outer; or a cork sock fashioned in this manner may 
be placed inside the boot. 

Druitt recommends the heel alone to be so raised on its 
inner edge, but I believe the above plan to be better. 
The ankle and foot may also be well bandaged. Friction 
and cold bathing will assist in strengthening the part. 

The Nails. 

The nails are modifications of the epidermis. The 
true skin beneath the nail, instead of producing ordinary 
epidermal scales, gives origin to the harder and differ¬ 
entiated variety which forms the nail. 

Ingrowing Nails. 

In this condition, which may be congenital, or the 
result of injury, the nail is short and often composed of 
two or more apparently overlapping layers of tissue like 
the slates on the roof of a house. The distal extremity 
of the nail does not reach to the end of the fingers, the 
fleshy part of which is bulged up in front of it, so that 
the nail’s progress forward is hindered, and, as a conse¬ 
quence, it may embed itself in the tissue from which it 
has to be raised in order to be cut when the part becomes 
painful. 

Treatment: The whole nail should be scraped or filed 
thin, all irregularities being removed. Then the extrem¬ 
ities should be raised, and cut off beyond the part to 
which it is attached by growth. If the extremity of the 
finger be thickened and horny, it sliould be rubbed down 
with moisted pumice stone. The future of the nail will 
now depend on tlie attention that is paid to it. After 
the operation the fingers should be covered with a stall 
for some weeks, but the latter may be removed every day 
for the purpose of bathing, etc. So soon as the distal 
extremity of tlie nail is seen to be growing, it should be 
gently raised and the flesh of the finger pushed down, so 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


91 


as to remove any impediment to the forward growth of 
the nail. If this be repeated daily, and the part pro¬ 
tected, the nail will eventually reach the extremity of the 
finger. It had better be allowed to grow a little beyond 
this, and then kept carefully cut. 

Deficient Gkowth of Nails. 

If a nail exists of the normal width, it will have the 
normal length if it be properly looked after no matter how 
disfigured and stunted it may be before treatment. The 
latter is to be that given in the preceding section. 

Loss OF Nail. 

When a nail becomes dark in color and loose, the finger 
should be protected by a stall, until the old nail has been 
shed and the new one well developed: the old nail should 
on no account be pulled off. It will hasten the separation 
if the part be soaked for a few minutes daily in hot water. 

Eidges on Nail. 

These may be rubbed down with moistened pumice 
stone. The nail will for two or three days after this has 
been done have a duller appearance than usual. 

Pits IN the Nail. 

Little depressions scattered over its surface. If these 
are not very deep, the nail may be rendered smooth by 
rubbing it with moistened pumice stone powder. 

The Skin Around the Nail. 

The thin veil of skin at the base of the nail should 
never be cut entirely away, unless it be very ragged. It 
should be raised once daily with a blunt instrument from 
the nail beneath, and if it be ragged it sliould be trimmed 
with a pair of sharp pointed scissors; the skin round the 
sides of the nail should be kept smooth with pumice stone; 


92 


NEW YOllK FASHION BAZAR 


tlio angles of the front of the nai* often grow downward 
into the skin causing great tenderness; they should be 
raised and rounded off with a pair of scissors. 

White Spots on Nail. 

These are caused by opacity of the cells, due to injury. 

Treatment: Do not apply any chemicals, but rub the 
nail with pumice stone powder moistened. As the nail 
grows, the spots will disappear. 

Discolored Nails. 

If caused by acids, rub the nail with liquid ammonia; 
if by alkalies, use vinegar or lemon juice. Nitrate of 
silver stains may be removed by solutions of iodide of potas¬ 
sium or sulphydrate of ammonium; fruit and ink stains 
by oxalic or sulphuric acid in water, or salts of lemon 
(oxalate of potash). The hands should not, except when 
the last is used, be washed with soap for some hours after 
the application. 


Cold Feet and Hands. 

Cold feet and hands may arise from local or constitu¬ 
tional causes. The local are, chiefly, insuflBcient cover¬ 
ings, exposure, etc. The proximate constitutional cause 
is an impaired circulation, which in turn is due to some 
other functional or organic disease of the nervous or cir¬ 
culatory apparatus. 

Treatment: If the patient suffers from debility he can 
soon be put right in this respect by proper internal reme¬ 
dies. Even if he suffer from organic disease of the heart, the 
organ may be strengthened, and his life prolonged by judi¬ 
cious scientific treatm.ent. Certain remedies for cold extrem¬ 
ities are obviously at hand. Thus they should be properly 
covered (I shall deal with this in the hygiene of dress). 
The patient should, if possible, avoid standing about in 


BOOK OP THE TOILET. 


93 


the cold. Exercise promotes the general circulation, and 
local friction will assist the blood-vessels of the part. 

Cold ih the Head. 

Eirst of all clear the bowels by taking some simple ape¬ 
rient, and one or two cathartic will do as well as anything. 
After taking the pills, have a warm bath in a warm room; 
rub the body with towels until it is aglow, and then go 
to bed, the sheets having been previously warmed. When 
in bed take as one dose, 

Sulphuric ether.minims. 

Phosphorus.ire grain. 

This should be placed in a tumbler, which should then 
be filled with cold water. The nose should be covered 
with warm fiannels from the bridge downward. 

The following should be used as a snuff. It should be 
snuffed up gently into the nostrils, not more than the 
amount mentioned being used in six houis. 

Morphia.^ grain. 

Subnitrate of bismuth .... 1 gram. 

In the morning strong hot coffee may be drunk before 
rising, the stronger it is the better. 

When the patient arises, if the weather be cold, there 
should be a fire in his room; he should then take another 

warm bath. . 

Now he may either confine himself to the house duiing 
the day, taking care to avoid all draughts and sudden 
changes of temperature, or having wrapped himself well 
up, he may take a brisk walk, not stopping to look in the 
shops or talk to friends, but continue walking as quickly 
as possible until he returns home, when the wraps should 
be immediately fiung off. On entering the house, if the 
weather be cold, and there is afire in his sitting-room, he 
should not immediately approach it, but remain at a dis- 


04 NEW tOUK FASHION BAZAH 

taiice until he has become accustomed to the temperature 
of the room. 

I'hose who are compelled to follow their avocations must 
take what precautions they can against draughts. The 
morphia and bismuth snuff will assist in allaying the 
inflammation of the mucous membrane, and bathing the 
nose in warm water will serve the same purpose. If the 
nostrils be tender a mixture of equal parts of subnitrate 
of bismuth and glycerine rubbed on the parts will remedy 
the condition. 

The patient must remember that a cold is debilitating, 
and the system must, therefore, be supported by nourish¬ 
ing food. 

Cramp. 

This is due to the spasmodic contraction of the muscles 
of any part. The usual seat of attack is at the back of 
the knee. 

Treatment: The immediate treatment is to forcibly 
extend the leg. The person should at the same time be 
seated; if this is not possible, rest the body against a wall 
or other object, and then extend the leg to the utmost 
possible extent. To partly flex the limb, as is sometimes 
done, is to invite the continuation of the pain. While 
the limb is being so extended, the back of the knee and 
thigh may be rubbed briskly by another person for a few 
seconds, or until the attack subsides. 

The preventive treatment consists in well bathing the legs 
and subsequent friction. If the attacks are frequent, the 
necessity for internal remedies is plainly indicated. The 
constant current will also be of service; it should be passed 
from below upward so as to lessen the natural nerve current. 

Flatulence. 

This, whether of the stomach or intestines, is produced 
by some abnormality in the process of deglutition, diges¬ 
tion, and absorption of food eaten. 


BOOK OB THE TOILET. 


95 


A healthy baby may take its milk greedily, presently it 
stops and cries, some simple remedy is given it, the child 
belches and is better; mothers and nurses call this tlie 
wind,” and wind or air it is which the child has been 
greedily swallowing, both compressing the air which 
always exists in the stomach, and taking more down with 
its food. An adult may suffer in the same manner, and 
from a similar reason. This is the simplest form of flat¬ 
ulence—compressed air. But a worse variety is that which 
arises from indigestion; the food not being readily con¬ 
verted in the stomach into the materials requisite for its 
absorption, fermentation may commence. In any case 
the two chief elements separate, combine, and are belched 
up as carbonic acid gas. When the partially digested food 
enters the intestine, it should be at once rendered fit 
for absorption. But if this is not the case, it passes down¬ 
wards beyond the digestive regions; now, if the bowels be 
open it may be discharged, and no great flatulence result. 
But again, if this is not the case, it disintegrates in order 
to get rid of as much of its bulk as is possible. In this 
manner sulphuretted hydrogen gas is formed. Certain 
drinks, as soda-water, champagne, etc., by liberating their 
contained gases in the stomach, produce flatulence. In 
the intestines it may be causedby eating hard-boiled eggs. 

Treatment: From what has been said the line of treat¬ 
ment will be evident. If the patient is a baby, the tube 
should be air tight, the flow of milk should be large and 
free. By these means the child, finding the milk come 
without effort, will not make those violent endeavors to 
suck and swallow, which result in transforming its little 
stomach into a pneumatic engine. If the child has the 
wind ” give it a teaspoonful of the following : 

Dill water.I 

Caraway.t 

Fennel. • • 1P^^^* 

Cinnamon.I 


96 


KEW YORK EASHlO^r BAZAR 


I say a fceaspoonfal,” because in mild cases this amount 
will be sufficient; but the dose may be repeated at inter¬ 
vals of half a minute, up to six spoonfuls. 

With regard to adults, if they take their food greedily, 
they must expect flatulence, and no pity; but a wine glass¬ 
ful of the above preparation will give the sufferer from 

wind ” relief. 

Flatulence, arising from indigestion, is, as I have said, 
more serious. Here the whole system must be put in 
order, so that it is not suited for discussion in the present 
handbook. 

As a specific for the relief (not the constitutional cure) 
of this form of the complaint, whether in the stomach or 
bowels, powdered wood charcoal stands unrivalled. But, 
if preferred, charcoal may be taken as a powder, moistened 
with a little brandy, and stirred up in water. The 
remedy being innocuous, may be taken freely. 

Muscular Development. 

The weakest person, if not suffering from any actual 
disease, may become an athlete, so far as his arms and 
body are concerned, by practicing daily for fifteen minutes 
only. By this it is meant that he must at the same time 
take walking exercise in order to develop the muscles of 
the legs. He should commence, if an adult, with dumb¬ 
bells of the greatest weight he can lift without effort. 
The exercise is as follows: 

They are held close together in front of the mid-breast 
and touching the latter, then raised above the head, the 
arms being fully extended; then the arms are brought 
down until they are at right angles to the body, here a 
pause is made for a second, and then the arms are low¬ 
ered, the bells brought round to the front of the body, 
and raised to the first position. This will develop the 
muscles of the arms and upper part of the body. To de¬ 
velop those of the lower part, the following exercise-should 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


97 


be practiced, which will, at the same time, develop those 
of the whole of the back: Two weights are placed on the 
ground by the individuars feet. Standing then with his 
legs close together, he stoops without bending the latter, 
grasps the weights, and rises to his full height; they are 
then lowered steadily to the ground, and the exercise is 
completed. 

Tlie patient must test his strength to see the greatest 
weight he can lift without straining, and he should com¬ 
mence with this. He must also ascertain the greatest 
number of times he can perform each exercise without 
absolute fatigue. This number is the starting point, and 
to it every day he should add one more. In a very short 
time he will be inclined to add twenty or more; but I 
must caution the would-be athlete against any sudden 
jump, for although the muscles may feel vigorous, they 
cannot perform a great excess of their ordinary work with¬ 
out being exhausted. 


Nettle Stiugs 

Are caused by the minute prickles of the nettle piercing 
the epidermis. Chemical changes are set up in the tis¬ 
sues, and if the surface stung be extensive, the condition 
may prove dangerous. 

Treatment: Ammonia, one part of dilute to three of 
water, should be used as a lotion, and lint soaked in the 
same be placed over the part. It will be well to examine 
the skin with a lens, and to remove any prickles which 
may be present. 

Offensive Beeath. 

Causes: The primary are constitutional, the proximate 
are an unhealthy state of the mucous membrane of the 
mouth, gullet, and stomach. It is weak and inactive, 
and its cells are not properly cast off and renewed, the 
external layers being slowly disintegrated. Another prox- 


98 


NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 


iniate cause is the retention of undigested food in the 
stomach. 

Treatment: This, in the main, must be constitutional. 
The odor may be corrected by washing out the mouth 
with Condy’s Fluid, and by taking the following draught 
twice a day: 

Chlorate of potash.15 grains. 

Water.1 oz. 

Offensive Feet. 

This condition is caused by excessive perspiration and 
decomposition of the matter thrown off. The feet should 
be washed daily in cold water and afterward rubbed 
thoroughly dry, the water containing half an ounce of 
powdered alum to the quart. Also, once daily, after exer¬ 
cise, bathe the feet in a solution of chlorinated lime, or 

Permanganate of potash .... 80 grs. 

Water.1 pint. 

The best kind of stockings for those troubled with offen¬ 
sive feet are made of thin flannel. 

Sunburn. 

It is not advisable to try to remove this unless the face 
is very irregularly discolored and very red, A wash com¬ 
posed of 

Dilute spirits of ammonia .... 1 part. 

Glycerine.2 parts. 

Water.3 parts. 

may be used daily, the face being, of course, protected 

from the further action of the sun. During the summer 
months, in exposed situations, as at the sea-side, the skin 
may become not merely sunburnt, in the common sense of 
the word, but irritable and inflamed, 




BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


99 


The following, used daily as a wash, will remedy this: 


Milk . . . . 

. 

. 1 pint. 

Carbonate of soda 

. 

. 1 oz. 

Glycerine 

. 

. 1 oz. 

Powdered borax . 

. 

. ^ oz. 

the following: 

Carbonate of soda . 

. . 

1 oz. 

Oatmeal water 

. 

i pint. 

Milk 

. 

. ^ pint. 


Freckles. 

These discolorations of the skin may be removed by ap¬ 
plying nightly a wash composed of 

Emulsion of bitter almonds .... 1 pint. 
Oxymuriate of quicksilver .... 2^ grains. 

Sal ammoniac.1 drachm. 

Or, touch them with crystals of saltpetre moistened with 
water. 


CHAPTER X. 

THE HAND. 

The hand, regarded either with reference to its ingen¬ 
ious construction and usefulness, or to its beauty, stands 
alone, in its superlative excellence, in the whole animal 
world. In no other species of animal is the hand so won¬ 
derfully formed and so perfectly developed as in man. 
Springing in a compactly molded body from the wrist, 
and provided with fingers possessing expanded tactile ex¬ 
tremities composed of an exquisitely sensitive and dis¬ 
criminative skin; and, above all, possessing a thumb 
which may be either placed in apposition or opposed to 
the other fingers, it is endowed with all the essential attri¬ 
butes of strength and mobility, and exalted powers of per¬ 
ception, that all the ordinary purpo^es^of life of an intel- 



100 


NEW YOKE FASHION BAZAR 


lectual being can require. To promote the softness and 
whiteness of the skin of tlie hand, mild emollient soaps, 
those abounding in oil or fat should alone be adopted for 
common use; by which means tlie tendency to contract 
chaps and chilblains, and roughness from drying winds, 
will also be lessened. The coarse, strong kinds of soap, 
or those abounding in alkali, should, for a like reason, be 
rejected, as they tend to render the skin rough, dry and 
brittle. The immersion of the hands in alkaline lyes, or 
in strongly acidulated water, has a similar effect, which 
increases with the temperature of the liquid. Eain- 
water, or soft water, is the best natural water for washing 
the hands, as it cleanses them more rapidly and com¬ 
pletely than ordinary hard water, and with the use of less 
soap. It may be advantageously used tepid, or even warm; 
but hot water should be avoided. Distilled water, when 
obtainable, is preferable to even rain-water. In the ab¬ 
sence of these, water that has been boiled and allowed to 
settle and cool, maybe employed. With hard water the 
hands are cleansed with difficulty; and though it m:iy be 
readily softened with the addition of a little soda, such an 
addition tends to make the skin of a delicate hand some¬ 
what hard and rough. If hard water must be used to 
wash with, the only harmless substance that can be con¬ 
veniently added to it, to soften it, is a little good powdered 
borax. This will also cause it to exert a genial action on the 
skin. When the hands are very dirty, or are oily or greasy, 
the best yellow soap (of the shops), with warm water, may 
be emiffoyed to cleanse them. It is sufficiently detergent 
for the purpose, without being acrid. Fruit-stains and ink- 
stains, and like discolorations, may be removed from the 
hands by washing them with lemon juice or vinegar and 
water, or by immersing them for two or three minutes in 
water slightly acidulated with oxalic acid or a few drops of 
oil of vitriol, or to which a few grains of chloride of lime 
have been added; qhserving afterward to well rinse them 


BOOK OB THE TOILET. 


101 


in clean water, and not to touch them with soap for some 
hours, as contact with alkaline matter will generall}^ bring 
back the stains, after their apparent removal by each of 
the above substances, except the last. 

To Whiten the Hands. 

The application, once or twice a day, of a few drops of 
Gowland’s lotion to the hands, after washing and wii)ing 
them, imparts a delicate whiteness and softness to the 
skin which is highly agreeable. Glycerinated water, em¬ 
ployed in the same way, also renders the skin soft, white, 
and supple. The best time for applying either of them 
is immediately before retiring to rest at night. Course, 
red, dark-skinned hands, may be whitened by the occa¬ 
sional use of a few grains of chloride of lime, with warm 
water. 

Koughness of the hands, induced by exposure to cold 
and drying winds, may, in general, be removed by the 
use of a little fine Calais-sand, or a little powdered pumice- 
stone, with the soap in washing them. The subsequent 
application, particularly at night, of either of the above 
lotions, or of two or three drops of almond oil or olive 
oil, well rubbed in, will usually effect the object com¬ 
pletely. 

The hands may be preserved dry for delicate work, by 
rubbing a little club-moss (lycopodium) in fine powder, 
over them. So repellent is this substance of moisture, 
that, if a small quantity of it be sprinkled on the sur¬ 
face of a basin of water, the hand, by a little adroitness, 
mav be plunged to the bottom of the basin without be¬ 
coming wet. 

To Allay Perspiration. 

Excessive moistness or perspiration of the hands, 
without obvious cause is generally indicative of debility, 
or disordered stomach, and requires corresponding treat- 


102 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

mcnt. Frequently wasliing the hands in moderately cold 
water often proves a local remedy for the inconvenience. 
'I'he addition of a few grains of alum, sal ammoniac, or 
sulphate of zinc, or of a teaspoonful of vinegar, to the 
water, greatly increases its efficacy. Extremely delicate 
and susceptible persons cannot always bear the excessive 
perspiration of their hands to be thus suddenly lessened; 
and therefore some discretion should be exercised by them 
in their attempts to check it. 

Persons who are compelled to handle substances, or to 
immerse their hands into liquids, that injuriously affect 
the skin, would do well to wash their hands as soon after 
such exposure as possible, and to apply a little glycerine 
or oil to them every night. In many cases, injurious con¬ 
sequences may be prevented by well rubbing the hands 
Avith a little salad oil or fat. 

All substances of an acid, alkaline, acrid, or astringent 
nature, injuriously affect the skin of the hand. So do 
also many substances, not acrid in themselves, by mere 
mechanical action, as by filling up the pores, extracting 
the natural moisture, destroying the natural suppleness, 
&c., of the skin. It is thus that tlie hands of grocers are 
injured by constant contact with the sugar, and those of 
brewers and cellarmen by being constantly wet with 
beer, etc. 

The Nails. 

The finger-nails require special attention if we desire 
to preserve them in their highest condition of beauty and 
usefulness. To keep them clean, the nail-brush, and 
soap and water, should be used once or oftener daily, as 
circumstances demand. Once a day, at least, on wiping 
the hands after washing them, and whilst they are still 
soft from the action of the water, the free edge of the 
scarf-skin which, if not attended to, is apt to grow upward 
over the nails, should be gently loosened and pressed 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


103 


bilck, in a neatly rounded form, by which the occurrence 
of cracks and sores about their roots will be prevented, 
and a graceful oval form, ending in a crescent-like 
space of white, will be insured. The skin, as a rule, 
should never be cut, pared, picked, or torn off, as is 
commonly done; and the less it is meddled with, otherwise 
than in the way just mentioned, the better. The ends 
or points of the nails should be pared every week or ten 
days, according to the rapidity of their growth, which 
somewhat varies with the season of the year and the habit 
of the individual. This is best done with a sharp pen¬ 
knife or nail-knife. Scissors are less convenient for the 
purpose, and have the disadvantage of straining and diS' 
torting the nails during the process. 

The length and shape of the nails, both for beauty and 
use, sliould exactly correspond with the tips of the fingers. 
Nails extending beyond the ends of the fingers are vulgar, 
claw-like, and inconvenient; whilst if shorter, particularly 
much shorter than the fingers, they are unsightly and of 
little use, and cause the tips of the fingers to become 
thick and clumsy. Biting the nails should be avoided as 
a dirty and disagreeable habit, and one utterly destructive 
to their beauty, strength, and usefulness. 

To Eemove Discolorations. 

To remove stains and discolorations of the nails, a little 
lemon juice, or vinegar and water, is the best application. 
Siiould this fail, a few grains of salt of sorrel, oxalic acid, 
or chloride of lime, each diluted with warm water, may be 
applied, care being taken to thoroughly rinse the hands in 
clean water, without soap, afterward. Occasionally a little 
pumice-stone, in impalpable powder, or powdered cuttle¬ 
fish bone, putty powder (polisher’s peroxide of tin), may 
be used along with water and a piece of wash-leather, 
flannel, or the nail-brush, for the same purpose. The 
freq^uent use of any of these substances is, howe\er, injuii-* 


104 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

ous to the healthy growth, strength, and permanent beauty 
of the nails. The common practice of scraping the surface 
of the nails cannot be too strongly censured, as it causes 
them to become weak and distorted. Blows on the nails, 
and, indeed, violence to them in any form, also distorts 
and marks them. 

Chapped Hands. 

Chapped hands are common among persons with a languid 
circulation, whoare continually ‘^dabbling’’ in water during 
cold weather, and particularly among those with a scrofu¬ 
lous taint, who, without the last, expose their ungloved 
hands to bleak cold winds. The best preventatives, as 
well as remedies, are the use of warm gloves out of doors, 
and the application, night and morning, of a little glycer¬ 
ine, diluted with twice or thrice its weight of water, or a 
little cold cream, spermaceti cerate, salad oil, or any 
other simple unguent or oil, which should be well rubbed 
in, the superfluous portion being removed with a towel. 
This treatment will not only preserve the hands from the 
effects of cold and damp, but also tend to render them 
soft and white. Deep chaps which have degenerated into 
sores, should be kept constantly covered with a piece of 
lint wetted with glycerine, or spread with spermaceti 
ointment, the part being at the same time carefully pre¬ 
served from dirt, cold, and the wind. Persons employed 
in oil and tallow works, in oil shops, and similar places, 
and who have, consequently, their hands continually in 
contact with greasy matter, are well known to scarcely 
ever suffer from either chaps or chilblains. 

Ohilulains, 

Chilblains are those well-known inflammatory swellings, 
of a color more or less leaden or purple, produced by the 
action of cold. They exclusively attack the extremities of 
the body, and are generally confined to the fingers,- toes, 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


iOo 


and heels. Itching, irritation, and tenderness, often ac¬ 
companied witli shooting pains and tumefaction, are the 
common symptoms. Children, particularly those of a 
weakly or scrofulous habit, and elderly persons, are gen¬ 
erally the most liable to them; but they are frequent 
among all persons in whom the circulation in the extrem¬ 
ities is languid. One of the most common causes of them 
is holding the hands or feet to the fire after they have been 
exposed to the cold. Any sudden change of temperature 
under such circumstances, especially from cold to heat, 
should be carefully avoided, as the action of the minute 
snrfacial blood-vessels is thereby more or less arrested, and 
their vitality, in many cases, partially destroyed. 

The best preventative of chilblains are warm, easy-fitting 
gloves of worsted or leather, woolen stockings or socks, 
good water-proof, but not air-tight, boots and shoes, vig¬ 
orous exercise and vigorous friction. These act by keep- 
ino- up the heat of the parts, and protecting them from 
vicissitudes of temperature, by which the circulation of 
the blood in the minute vessels of the surface continues 

niicbecked. u • *. 

When chilblains have once formed, and during their in- 
cipieiit stages, the best treatment is with local stimulants 
and counter-irritants. Among these may be mentioned, 
painting the parts twice a day with strong tincture of 
iodine, or friction with oil of turpentine (with or without 
the addition of a little salad oil), opodeldoc, camphorated 
oil, hartshorn and oil, and the like. Cxlyceriiiated lotion 
of sal ammoniac is also an effective remedy. 

When the infiamed parts ulcerate and break, the usual 
treatment is to dress them with a little rosin-cerate or 
elemi ointment; but a much, more curative dressing is 
spermaceti-ointment to each ounce of which a few grams 
of tannic acid or powdered gall-nuts, or of ointment of 
nitrate of mercury (citrine ointment), ov omtmeut ot 
nitric oxide of mercury, or a few drops of Goulard s ex- 


l06 KEW YOliK EASHIOK BA2AR 

tract (liquor plnmbi), have been added. If glycerine 
(somewhat thickened, or not, with a little arrowroot) be 
substituted for the spermaceti ointment, or a small por¬ 
tion of glycerine be well triturated with the ointment, a 
still more effective remedy will be produced. In all cases 
care should be taken to cleanse the ulcers with warm water 
at each renewal of the dressing. 

Persons subject to chilblains should be particular to 
wipe their hands thoroughly dry after washing them, and 
would do well to continue the friction with the towel for 
two or three minutes afterward. It will tend to prevent 
their accession. 


Distorted Joikts. 

Swelled and distorted finger-joints, arising from rheu¬ 
matism, rheumatic gout, and the like, may generally be 
greatly relieved, and frequently wholly cured, by the free 
use of fresh lemon juice internally, and a hot and strong 
solution of common soda (Scotch soda), as an embroca¬ 
tion. Even enlarged finger-joints containing the gouty 
excretions popularly called ‘‘chalk-stones” will, in gen- 
eral, yield to this treatment, if it be freely and joersever- 
ingly carried out. Old distortions and enlargements of 
the kind, remaining after the disease that produced them 
has passed away, will frequently yield to painting them 
every night, or every other night with tincture of iodine. 

Warts. 

Waits, like chilblains, are too well known to require 
description. They chiefly attack the hands, and particu¬ 
larly the fingers ; but sometimes occur on other portions 
of the body. They may be removed by rubbing or moist¬ 
ening their extremities every day, or every other day, 
with lunar caustic (fused nitrate of silver), nitric acid,' 
concentrated acetic acid, or aromatic vinegar, care being 
taken not to wash the hands for some hours after. -The 


feOOS; OF TitE TOILET. 


107 


first is an extremely convenient and manageable substance, 
from not being liable to drop or spread; but it produces 
a black stain, which remains till the cauterized surface 
peels off. The second produces a yellow stain, in depth 
proportioned to the strength of the acid employed. This 
also wears off after the lapse of a few days. The others 
scarcely discolor the skin. German practitioners are in 
tlie habit of recommending the internal use of carbonate 
of magnesia in cases of warts. 

Warts often disappear under the influence of the imag¬ 
ination, and strong mental excitement, in a very singular 
way. Thus, among the ignorant and superstitious, amu¬ 
lets and incantations, and touches’’ with substances that 
cannot possibly exert the slightest chemical, dynamical, 
or physiological action on the part, supported by a lively 
faith, are not infrequently sufficient to cause their disap¬ 
pearance. The sudden confusion and embarrassment into 
which a sensitive and nervous person is thrown, by being 
unexpectedly accused of something of which he is entirely 
innocent, will also sometimes produce a like effect. Warts 
are also sometimes produced by agencies tliat are appar¬ 
ently insufficient for the purpose. Thus, blowing on the 
backs of the hands, or on the face, with a pair of bellows, 
has been known occasionally to be followed by a crop of 
warts on the part. 

The popular eruption on the hands, popularly called 
soft warts, is an affection quite distinct from true warts. 
It is best treated by the daily application of Gowland’s 
lotion, or glycerinated solution of bichloride of mercury. 

Whitlow. 

iVhitlow— ^'paronychia”—is a painful inflammation at 
the end of one of the fingers, and mostly under or about 
the nail. When it occurs near the root of a nail it is com¬ 
monly called an agnail. In general there is a tendency to 
suppuration and abscess, and when this is the case much 


108 


NEW YORK EASHiON BAEaR 


pain and annoyance nsually follows. Emollient poultices, 
and soaking the hands in warm water, are serviceable in 
every stage of the affection, and is the best treatment that 
can be adopted. When there is much pain, owing to the 
presence of pus or matter, for which there is no place of 
exit, an incision, made with a lancet, will generally afford 
immediate relief. This operation, though simple, should 
be performed by a surgeon. 


CHAPTEE XL 

THE FOOT. 

A BEAUTIFUL foot is ouc wliich is small, rather than large, 
in proportion to the leg and stature, and of which the in¬ 
step is high, or moderately high, and arched; of which 
the waist, or portion under the instep, is hollowed and 
well raised above the level of the sole, with the toes regu¬ 
lar and well developed, the heel narrow and non-protrud¬ 
ing, and its general outline long, slender, and graceful. 
Among females, a very small foot possessing these propor¬ 
tions is considered the acme of beauty. The agility of 
foot and the pedestrian powers of the individual, other 
matters being equal, are in exact relation to the degree in 
which the above-mentioned qualities are present. 

The health and beauty of the foot is promoted by exer¬ 
cise, easy-fitting and appropriate boots or shoes being 
worn. Walking, dancing, running and skipping, 
whether taken as exercise or indulged in for amusement, 
are thus to be recommended, independent of their value 
in a hygienic point of view. 

Health of the Feet. 

To preserve the feet in a thoroughly healthy and com¬ 
fortable state, the first object of attention should be clean¬ 
liness—thorough cleanliness. For this purpose they 



BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


109 


should be frequently soaked and well washed in warm or 
tepid water, good yellow soap being freely used to remove 
the dirt and perspiration which accumulate about them. 
This should be done, if possible, every day in summer, 
every other day in spring and autumn, and twice a week 
in winter. The appropriate time for the operation is at 
night, before retiring to rest. Once a week, after soak- - 
ing, washing and drying them with the towel, but whilst 
still soft from the action of the water, the feet should be 
carefully examined, loose portions of skin removed by 
friction with a dry part of the towel or with the fingers, 
callosities or indurations reduced by the finger nails, or 
by rubbing them with a piece of pumice-stone. About 
once a fortnight, on a similar occasion, the nails of the 
toes should be inspected, when such of them that require 
it should be pared with a sharp penknife, to prevent 
them becoming inconveniently long or growing into the 
flesh. Their proper length is that of the toes; and the 
shape of their extremities, that of the natural curve of 
the part. If they are allowed to grow beyond the ends 
of the toes, they are liable to be forced back and distorted 
by the pressure of the boot or shoe, and to grow into the 
flesh; whilst if they are shorter, or much shorter, than 
the toes, the extremities of the latter lose their natural 
support. Nails that have a tendency to spread sidewise 
and to grow into the flesh—a thing that always originates 
in pressure—should be kept carefully pared at the sides or 
offending part. 

Wet Feet. 

It is highly necessary to the preservation of health to 
keep the feet dry, and to shelter them from cold and sud¬ 
den changes of temperature. Persons who are exposed 
to the wet or cold, or who are frequently passengers 
through the public streets in bad weather, should, there¬ 
fore, regard good and sound boots and shoes as of the flrst 
importance. In a hygienic point of view, a wet back 


110 


KEW YOUlv FASHION BAZAR 


slioiild bo less sliunned than wot or cold feot. Damp feet 
are, as a necessary consequence, always cold; for it is ono 
of the natural laws thatevaporation produces cold,” 
and the way a wot or damp foot becomes dry is by the 
conversion of the water into vapor, the latent heat neces¬ 
sary to the existence of the latter being derived from the 
sensible heat of the feot. Wo may trace ono half 
(certainly a vast number) of the consumptions of this 
country to cold suddenly apjdied to the feet, by which the 
sensible exhalation is checked; and it is not sufliciently 
impressed upon the mind that when once the regular 
perspiration from the feet is checked, it is a matter of the 
utmost difficulty to restore it. 

Tender Feet. 

Tender feet generally arise from the neglect of clean¬ 
liness, the use of thin cotton or silk stockings, and boots 
or shoes that are either too tight or stiff, or misshaped, 
or not sufficiently porous to admit of the escape of the 
perspiration. Of these, tight boots and shoes and water¬ 
proof ones, which are also air-tiglit, are the most common 
causes of tender feet, as also of headaches, dizziness, dys¬ 
pepsia, diarrhea, and even apoplexy. Boots and shoes 
too narrow across the toes or the tread of the foot, or 
insufficiently long for ease and comfort, though large 
enough elsewhere, either cramp and distort the fore part 
of the foot and toes, or arrest the nails in their forward 
growth, forcing them back upon the sensitive flesh at 
their roots and sides, and causing them to grow in thick¬ 
ness and width only. The results may be gradual, but 
are always painful. ^ 

The best treatment of tender feet is soaking them 
nightly in tepid water, to which a handful of bran may 
be added, or not, at will. When the tenderness is extreme 
and persistent, a little powdered borax or sal ammoniac 
should bo added to the water. In all cases woolen or 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


Ill 


worsted stockings or socks, and boots orsliocs with uppers 
of buckskin, goatskin, French calf, or some equally soft 
kind of leather, should bo worn. 

Cold Feet. 

Coldness of the feet indicates delicate health, and a 
feeble state of the circulation. It should be met by active 
exercise and friction, the use of warm woolen stockings, 
and efforts to improve the general tone of the system. 
The coldness and numbness of the feet common in the 
debilitated and aged may also be treated in a similar man¬ 
ner; but here the socks or stockings may be advanta¬ 
geously kept on throughout the night, or, at all events, 
until the feet become comfortably warm. When this 
proves insufficient, a foot-warmer filled with hot water 
may bo placed in the bed. 

Offensive Odor. 

The peculiar and very disagreeable odor evolved by the 
feet of some persons in hot weather generally arises from 
unnatural perspiration, insufficient attention to cleanli¬ 
ness, and from wearing eotton stockings and non-ventilat¬ 
ing boots or shoes. The remedy is obvious. The feet 
should be soaked and washed nightly in warm water, 
good yellow soap being at the same time freely used, thin 
woolen stockings, of which a clean pair should be put on 
daily, should be alone worn, and boots or shoes adopted 
which are light, easy, and permeable to the perspiration. 
AVlien this fails, a teaspoonful of good chloride of lime, 
or about twice that quantity of sal ammonia, or even of 
common salt, or a teacupful of strong vinegar, may bo 
added to the water in which the feet are soaked, the use 
of soap being at the same time omitted. 

Abrasions, Blisters, etc. 

Sore feet produced by walking, violent exercise, or in 
any other similar manner, may be treated as noticed above 


112 


KEW YOEK EASIIIOK BAZAll 


under tender feet.” Abrasions, after soaking and 
washing them, should be protected by a piece of common 
strapping or sticking-plaster, or a piece of lint spread 
with spermaceti ointment, the dressing in either case 
being bound on with a strip of thin soft rag. If bladders 
have formed, they should be opened, and the water or 
serum which they contain should be pressed out. When 
they occur on parts where the skin is thin and delicate, it 
will be sufficient to pass a coarse needle through them; 
but where the skin is thick and hard, as on the heels and 
balls of the large toes, this is insufficient for the purpose. 
In this case the central part of the bladder should be 
pinched up between the thumb and finger, and the skin 
freely snipped, completely through, with the points of a 
pair of sharp scissors. The whole of the water being 
tlien pressed out, the part should be covered with a couple 
of folds of soft rag, to protect the opening from the stock¬ 
ing, and to allow the escape of serum, which will generally 
continue to ooze out for some time. The loose skin 
should not be detaehed for some days, or until a new por¬ 
tion of euticle has formed under it. If it be done be¬ 
fore, the raw and tender surface of the cutis will be ex¬ 
posed, and will often, for some time, occasion much pain 
and inconvenience. The stiffness resulting from long 
pedestrian excursions, and, if not attended to, often last¬ 
ing several days, may be treated by hot knee-baths or 
foot-baths, or, better still, by a general hot vapor-bath or 
a Turkish bath. 


Corns. 

Corns are horny indurations of the skin, with a central 
nucleus very sensitive at the base, and occur on the ex¬ 
posed portions of the joints of the toes. The common 
cause of them is continued pressure or friction on the pro¬ 
jections of the bones from tight, stiff, or ill-fitting boots 
or shoes. This suggests the means of their prevention. 


BOOK OB THE TOILET. 


113 


which, in addition to cleanliness, consists essentially in 
wearing easy-fitting, soft boots and shoes. If this be 
neglected, corns are almost certain to form; and they will 
as certainly reappear, however often, and however per¬ 
fectly, they be removed. 

Treatment of Corns. 

The curative treatment of corns is very simple, though 
often somewhat troublesome and tedious. After soaking 
them for some minutes in warm water, to soften them, 
they should be pared, with a sharp penknife, as close as 
possible without causing pain or making them bleed, ob¬ 
serving to extract as much of the central portion of the 
base, popularly, but incorrectly, called the ‘^root,’^ as 
possible. The pared surface of the corn, and particularly 
its central and upper portion, may be now touched over 
with any substance capable of destroying the vitality of 
the indurated cuticle, or at least the part of it next the 
surface, and thus causing it in a few days to separate, or 
permit its removal. For this purpose caustics or cor¬ 
rosives are employed. Of these the most convenient and 
manageable, and the one most in favor, is fused nitrate of 
silver or lunar caustic. This substance, held between 
paper to shield the fingers, is used by simply rubbing it 
on the corn, previously slightly moistened with water. 
Nitric acid, concentrated acetic acid or strong aromatic 
vinegar, and strong tincture of iodine or iodine-paint, are 
other effective substances which are frequently employed 
to remove corns. Being liquid and highly corrosive, the 
surface of the corn is moistened with them by means of a 
strip of wood, or, preferably, a small rod of glass, due 
care being taken not to allow the liquid to spread or touch 
the neighboring parts, or, in conveying them, to drop on 
the skin or dress. After the application of either the 
caustic, or one of the liquids mentioned, the parts medi¬ 
cated should be left uncovered for a short time, until 


114 KEW YORK EASHlOiT BAZAR 

quite dry. In the course of three or four days a portion 
of the cuticle, more or less thick, disorganized by the 
action of the remedy, will begin to detach itself, and may 
be removed with the nail, either at once, or after soaking 
the foot for a short time in warm water. The application 
of the caustic, or the liquid, and the whole treatment, 
should then be repeated, and again every third or fourth 
day, until a cure be effected, soft, loose shoes being, as 
far as possible, worn during the whole time. 

Another mode of extirpating corns, sometimes adopted, 
and with greater success than the last one, is the appli¬ 
cation of a small blister. This will frequently raise them, 
with the skin, out of their beds, and permit of their com¬ 
plete removal. The delicate exposed surface must then 
be dressed with a little simple ointment, spread on lint, 
and this must be retained in its place by a slight bandage 
formed of a strip of soft calico. 

Mechanic A.L Trea^tment. 

Among methods, purely mechanical, for the cure of 
corns, two particularly deserve notice. The one is, to 
wear upon the toe, or part affected, a small circular piece 
of soft buckskin, or, still better, of amadou, spread with 
diachylon, resin, or any other adhesive plaster, and hav¬ 
ing a hole punched in the center corresponding to the 
size of the corn. In this way the pressure of the boot or 
shoe is equalized, and the apex of the corn protected from 
injury; by which the pain is at once relieved, and, pro¬ 
vided the prominent surface of the corn be occasionally 
pared, a radical cure is ultimately effected. 

The other method above referred to, is to gradually re¬ 
duce the corn by nightly rubbing it, in the dry and hard 
state, with the flat surface of a piece of pumice-stone, or 
with a piece of glass, sand, or emery paper, or one of the 
little instruments sold by perfumers and dealers in toilet 
articles under the name of ^ corn rubbers.’ The-relief 


BOO^ OP TilE TOiLET. 


115 


afforded will increase daily until the extirpation be com¬ 
plete. 

Soft Corns. 

Soft corns, or those that occur between the toes, may 
generally be cured, as well as prevented forming, by daily 
scraping the part, whilst soft and moist, with the edge of 
a penknife, or with the finger-nail, so as to remove as 
much of the thickened and disorganized cuticle as possi¬ 
ble. When this does not succeed, a little soap cerate, 
spread on a piece of lint or soft rag, may be placed as a 
‘^dressing” between the toes and renewed daily, soaking 
the feet in warm water, and scraping the part, being also 
adopted. Slightly rubbing the prominent parts with 
lunar caustic, or slightly moistening them with strong 
vineg{?r, or with tincture of iodine, every second or third 
day, will also remove them. When these substances are 
used, the toes should be kept apart until the skin be¬ 
comes dry, when a strip of paper, or thin calico, should 
be placed between them. A common remedy for soft 
corns, among the vulgar, is a piece of ivy-leaf that has 
been soaked in vinegar. It is renewed daily. 

Bunions. 

A bunion is a species of corn or swelling on the ball, 
or the chief joint, of the great toe, resulting from press¬ 
ure and the irritation produced by friction. The treat¬ 
ment recommended for ‘^corns’’ applies, for the most 
part, also to bunions; but in consequence of their greater 
extent, and the greater degree of irritation accompanying 
them, the cure is more tedious. 


116 


NEW YOKE FASHION BAZAR 


CHAPTER XIi: 

PERFUMES. 

Paris is the great center of the manufacture of per¬ 
fumery. There are in that capital one hundred and 
twenty working perfumers, employing about three thou¬ 
sand men and women. 

Next to Hungary water, the most ancient perfume now 
in use is eau de Cologne, or Cologne water, which was in¬ 
vented in the last century by an apothecary residing in 
that city. It can, however, be made Just as well any¬ 
where else, as all the ingredients entering into its com¬ 
position come from the south of France and Italy. Its 
perfume is extracted principally from the flowers, leaves, 
and rind of the fruit of the bitter orange, and other trees 
of the Citrus species, which blend well together, and 
form an harmonious compound. 

Toilet vinegar is a sort of improvement on eau de 
Cologne, containing balsams and vinegar in addition. 
Lavender water was formerly distilled with alcohol from 
fresh flowers, but is now prepared by simply digesting 
the essential oil in spirits, which produces the same result 
at a much less cost. The finest is made with English 
oil, and the common with French, which is considerably 
cheaper, but is easily distinguished by its coarse flavor. 

Perfumes for the handkerchief are composed in various 
ways: the best are made by infusing in alcohol the po¬ 
mades or oils obtained by the processes Just described. 
This alcoholate possesses the true scent of the flowers en¬ 
tirely free from the empyreumatic smell inherent in all 
essential oils; as, however, there are but six or seven 
flowers which yield pomades and oils, the perfumer has to 
combine these together to imitate all other flowers. This 
may be called the truly artistic part of perfumery, for it 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


117 


is done by studying resemblances and affinities, and 
blending the shades of scent as a painter does the colors 
on his palette. Thus, for instance, no perfume is ex¬ 
tracted from the heliotrope; but as it has a strong vanilla 
flavor, by using the latter as a basis, with other ingredi¬ 
ents to give it freshness, a perfect imitation is produced; 
and so on with many others. 

The most important branch of the perfumer’s art is the 
manufacture of toilet soaps. They are generally pre¬ 
pared from the best tallow soaps, which are remelted, 
purified and scented. They can also be made by what is 
called the cold process, which consists in combining 
grease with a fixed dose of lees. It offers a certain ad¬ 
vantage to perfumers for producing a delicately scented 
soap, by enabling them to use as a basis a pomade instead 
of fat, which could not be done with the other process, as 
the heat would destroy the fragrance. This soap, how¬ 
ever, requires being kept for some time before it is used, 
in order that the saponification may become complete. 
Soft soap, known as shaving cream, is obtained by sub¬ 
stituting potash for soda lees, and transparent soap by 
combining soda soap with alcohol. Another sort of 
transparent soap has been produced by incorporating 
glycerine into it, in the proportion of about one third 
to two thirds of soap. 

The English toilet soaps are the very best that are 
made; the French come next, but, as they are not re¬ 
melted, they never acquire the softness of the English. 
The German soaps are the very worst that are manufact¬ 
ured: the cocoa-nut oil, which invariably forms their 
basis, leaves a strong fetid smell on the hands, and their 
very cheapness is a deception; for as cocoa-nut oil takes 
up twice as much alkali as any other fatty substance, the 
soap produced with it wastes away in a very short time. 

The volatilization of perfumes by means of steam is a 
modern improvement. A current of steam is made to 


118 


NEW yOEK FASHION BAZAR 


pass through a concentrated essence, from wliich it dis¬ 
engages the fragrant molecules, and spreads them through 
the atmosphere with extraordinary rapidity and force. A 
whole theater may be perfumed by this means in ten 
minutes, and a drawing-room consequently in much less 
time. This system has the advantage of purifying tlie 
air, and has been adopted on that account by some of the 
hospitals and other public institutions. 

The selection of a perfume is entirely a matter of taste, 
and I should no more presume to dictate to a lady whicli 
scent she should choose, than I would to an epicure what 
wine he is to drink; yet I may say to the nervous: use 
simple extracts of flowers which can never hurt you, in 
preference to compounds, which generally contain musk 
and other ingredients likely to affect the head. Above 
all, avoid strong, coarse perfumes; and remember, that 
if a woman’s temper may be told from her handwriting, 
her good taste and good breeding may as easily be ascer¬ 
tained by the perfume she uses. Whilst a lady charms 
us with the delicate ethereal fragrance she spreads around 
her, aspiring vulgarity will as surely betray itself by 
a handkerchief redolent of common perfumes. 


CHAPTER XIII. 

mother’s mark, or port wine mark. 

X^vus, commonly called ‘‘Mother’s Mark” or “Port 
Wine Mark,” is caused by the dilitation and increased 
growth of the small blood-vessels of the skin. Thus it 
may be arterial, venous, or capillary. In size, naevi vary 
from a pin’s head to nearly the whole extent of the face. 
No patient should himself operate on a naevus greater in 
circumference than a small pea. The simplest method of 



fiOOiv OP THE TOILET. 


119 

removal is by means of concentrated nitric or hydro¬ 
chloric acid. A match or similar piece of wood should 
have one end bitten out into a form of brush: this should 
be dipped into the acid, and one large drop placed on the 
naBvus, the skin around which should be thickly covered 
with lard. The acid should be brought into contact with 
the whole extent of the naevus. Then, over the scab or 
eschar formed, may be laid the following paste— 

Carbonate of bismuth. 1 part. 

Glycerine. i part. 

Extract of belladonna. 1 part. 

Hydrocyanic acid. 1 part. 

The use of the acid causes a good deal of pain, but it is a 
very effectual method of removal. 

If preferred, solid nitrate of silver or sulphate of copper 
may be used; the latter should be thoroughly worked 
into the part. In both cases the paste before-mentioned 
should be afterward applied. 

A certain amount of inflammation is sure to follow any 
operation on a naevus, but when the latter is of small ex¬ 
tent, this is seldom of a violent character, and the formula 
given will prove a sufficient remedy. After three days 
the paste may be gently washed off with warm water, and 
the following preparation gently, but effectually rubbed 
into the eschar, over which a thickish layer should be 
afterward placed, and the whole covered by a sheet of 
court plaster. 

Common cream.1 part. 

■White wax.2 parts. 

Glycerine. .1 part. 

Spermaceti.1 part. 

The scab should now be allowed to fall off without 
further interference. If when it separates the surface is 
raw or tender,, apply the last preparation, and cover with 
simple plaster for a week. Another method of removing 



120 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

naevi, is to keep them constantly moistened with very 
dilate acid solution, e.g. —loz. dilute nitric acid to 4oz. 
water. Galvano-puncture may be tried. The conductors 
of the battery are to have a needle affixed to each of them 
by means of common iron wire. These needles should be 
inserted into the naevus; of course, not being allowed to 
touch each other. The object is to contract the vessels. 
If the affection be seated over a bony prominence, press¬ 
ure, by means of a piece of lead and a bandage, may be 
tried; this.too, is a tedious method of cure, but painless. 
If an operation be objected to, and the patient wishes to 
hide the deformity, the following will be found a harm¬ 
less and effectual paint. If properly made it should dry 
like enamel and not crack. 


Wood charcoal 

. . . . 1 part. 

Carmine. 

. . . 1 part. 

Chalk. 

. . . . 10 parts. 

Glycerine. 


Flexible collodion . 

. . . . 8 parts. 

Rectified spirits .... 

. . . 2 parts. 


The color of this may be varied by the relative amounts 
of carbon, chalk, and carmine used. Another, and a 
simpler method is to powder the naevus, say of a white 
color, and then over it to apply a layer of flexible col¬ 
lodion. The naevus should be moistened before the 
powder is applied. In both cases, simple tinted face 
powder may be afterward used, both to the part affected 
and the skin surrounding it. 

Obesity or Fatness. 

Two great evils arise from this condition. First: the 
impediment offered to the patient’s movements by the ex¬ 
cess of adipose tissue, and next, the deposition of fatty 
material in and around the vital organs, impairing their 
functions, and producing often a comparatively premature 



BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


121 


decease. It may be laid down as an almost invariable 
rule, that to be very fat is to be out of health. Tlie 
patient may not feel any great disorder to exist. The 
condition, for instance, of a fatty heart may only occa¬ 
sionally make itself felt by flutterings and sliglit faintness; 
but, nevertheless, the mechanism is disordered. 

Treatment: To understand the lines on which a 
rational treatment may be carried out, it is necessary to 
remember that fat is the normal covering of the body, it 
being always found as a layer of very variable thickness 
beneath the true skin. When more material is taken into 
the body than can be used for the maintenance of the 
tissues, some of it is deposited as fat, in the layer of which 
I have spoken: thus obesity is developed. Now this dep¬ 
osition of excessive material is simply an instance of 
natural economy; the fat is deposited until the tissues 
may require its use, when it will be absorbed into the sys¬ 
tem. As an example of this law, may be mentioned the 
hybernating animals. In these, during activity, the fat 
becomes developed to an enormous extent, and during the 
period of hybernation this is reabsorbed into the system, 
acting as food, to maintain the nutrition and heat of the 
body. Nevertheless, it must be understood that during 
such a state of sleep there is a lessened excretion of vital 
material, e.g., albuminoids and phosphates, and con¬ 
sequently a decreased demand for their supply. Were 
this not so the animal must either wake up or die, since 
it is only in the connective tissue of fat that the essential 
ingredients of nerve and muscle are to be found; the 
greater part of the fat—its oily portion—serving simply 
for the maintenance of temperature in the process of 
respiration. 

Knowing then why fat is deposited, it must be evident 
that the simplest and best way to effect its removal will be 
to use this fatty material as food, while we eat only such 
other substances as are absolutely required for the main- 


122 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

tenance of life. Thus I should prescribe for a fatty 
patient—abstinence from all soups, broths, chocolate, 
butter, saccharine material, pastry, and any fatty or 
directly fat-forming material whatever. Meat may be 
taken, but it should be lean, and vegetables and fruit may 
be eaten. Wines must be light, and cold water will be 
the best drink. At the same time a scientifically prepared 
nerve tonic, one that is prescribed on genuine physio¬ 
logical grounds, and not like much of the trash sold under 
various names, worse than useless, should be taken daily. 
AVith this treatment the patient must adopt the old reme¬ 
dy of exercise. It need not be great at first. If he has 
been unaccustomed to use his legs for some time, although 
not absolutely incapable of doing so, he may commence 
by walking two hundred yards, either in his own house or 
out of doors, the latter being preferable. This practice 
should be repeated daily, being increased every time by 
fifty yards. Let him also exercise his muscles by the use 
of dumb-bells, walking up and down stairs, etc., in fact, 
by taking all possible exercise. A tepid bath should be 
taken every day, and be followed by friction with a good 
bath, towel. 

But if the patient object to all this, he has another 
course open, viz., to prevent the transformation of fatty 
material eaten into the form of substance, into which it 
must enter before it can be converted into tissue. In 
other words, to prevent the saponification of fatty ma¬ 
terial. 

The best agent for effecting this is the Fucus vesiculosus, 
and a preparation of it is commonly sold as a ‘^patent” 
medicine, under the name of Allen’s ^‘Anti-fat.” 

Spotted Acne. 

This consists in the stoppage of the passages of certain 
minute glands by the secretion of the latter, and makes 
itself manifest by black spots which stud the skin, .espe- 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


123 

cially of the face. The blackness is caused by the dirt 
accumulating on the exterior of the core of matter. 

Treatment: In persons subject to this complaint, the 
skin of the parts generally attacked must once daily be 
closely searched for the appearance of the spots. When 
found, the cores must be pressed out, and the pait 
bathed with cold water. They are sometimes found in 
extraordinary numbers on the nose; in this situation they 
may be squeezed out with a blunt, flat instrument, 
pressed tightly along the surface of the flesh. Lotions 
are often advertised to remove these “ grubs,” and the 
latter have been stated by the advertisers to be living 
organisms. All this is a delusion. The ‘'grubs” are 
mere collections of cUlris and cast-off cells, and they can 
not be removed by other than mechanical means. What 
the said lotions really do, is (sometimes nothing at all) 
to whiten their external extremities, and so prevent their 
being noticed. A little glycerine or oil rubbed into the 
skin, or previous washing in hot water, will soften the 
secretion, and allow it to be more easily removed. The 
formation of the cores or grubs may be prevented by wash¬ 
ing the face once daily in warm water, and afterward 
pressing the towel, wrapped round the finger firmly, 
along the parts most frequently attacked. Any redness 
after this simple operation may be entirely obviated by 
using— 

Glycerine.1 part. 

Prepared chalk ....... 1 part. 

of which a very small portion will suffice. 

Acne Vulgaris is the scientific name given to an erup¬ 
tion of pimples on the face and other parts. The causes 
are constitutional, and therefore internal remedies will be 
needed. Locally, the tone of the parts maybe improved, 
and the eruption hastened in its removal, by the following 
treatment. The pimples must be pricked, and the coii- 


124 NEW YOEK FASHION BAZAR 

tents pressed out, and then a lotion of dilute acetic acid 
applied. If this does not effect a cure, then 

Iodide of sulphur.10 grains. 

Sublimed sulphur.10 grains. 

Dilute hydrocyanic acid .... 10 minims. 

Lard.• . . 1 oz.. 


made into an ointment, may be used nightly. 

If the spots are very chronic and discolored, use to each, 
sparingly. 

Emulsion of bitter almonds .... 1 pint. 

Oxymuriate of quicksilver . . . . grains. 

Sal ammoniac.1 drachm. 


Summer Bumps. 

These are due to certain chemical abnormalities occur¬ 
ring in the tissues, as a consequence of increased heat of 
the body. The mechanism is too long to be explained 
here, but increased oxidation and rapid cell formation 
are the two chief factors. 

Treatment: Apply ice, or a lotion of 1 drachm of chlor¬ 
ide of ammonium to the ounce of water. 

If the part itches, apply dilute hydrocyanic acid (one 
of acid to four of water); but cold, if obtainable, is to be 
preferred, and will remove the itcliing equally well with 
the acid. 

Some simple internal remedies are indicated when the 
patient is much attacked by summer bumps, and this is 
the only method of preventing their occurrence.- 

Sweating. 

Sudoriporous, or sweat glands, are found over the 
whole surface of the body; they are imbedded in the 
tissue beneath the skin; they have ducts which open on 
the surface of the latter, and their mouths are commonly 


BOOK OP THE TOILET. 


125 


called pores. Tlie function of the glands is to excrete the 
watery constituents of the blood, with some cast-off 
organic materials; they fulfill a perfectly natural and 
healthy office. Their amount of work is, however, direct¬ 
ly in proportion to their blood supply; they are never 
idle, but in cold loeather, or in persons who do not exert 
themselves, the secretion evaporates, and does not collect 
on the surface; this perspiration. When the secretion 
is in excess, it collects on the skin, and is termed siveat; 
the laity, however, generally use the terms as synony¬ 
mous. 


The Itch. 

Scabies, or the ‘Mtch,” is a disease due to an animal 
parasite, the Acarus Scabiei. 

Symptoms: There is an eruption of vesicles or blebs, 
accompanied by intense itching, which is increased by 
warmth. The eruption generally commences between 
the fingers, and thence may spread over different parts of 
the body, with the exception of the face, which it does 
not attack. 

Treatment: Eub in nightly 

Sublimed sulphur.1 oz. 

Lard . .4 oz,, 

made into an ointment. 

Tekderkess of the Scalp. 

This frequently arises from the practice of using very 
hot water to the head, as in some shampooing establish¬ 
ments. Again, it may be caused by the sudden change 
of temperature in shampooing from heat to cold. People 
should remember, that to draw a large quantity of blood 
to the surface (which hot water does), and then to drive 
it back on the larger arteries by the application of cold 



1^6 KEW YORK EASHIOi^ BAZAR 

(wliich is just what occurs), is to run the risk of injuring 
not merely the skin, but the brain itself, wliich the proc¬ 
ess directly affects, and which can not stand Uicse sudden 
changes in its vascular supply. The water in shampoo¬ 
ing should commence at a moderate temperature, and be 
very gradually raised and lowered. Again, it may occur 
from the too liberal use of hair restorers, etc. In such case, 
common sense must dictate the line of treatment, viz., to 
leave them off for a time, and then to use them moie 
sparinglv. When the scalp is naturally tender, the head 
should be washed daily in cold water, and friction be used, 
care being taken not to abrade the surface. Afterward, 

Rectified spirit.^ 

Water . . ,.^ 

may be used as a wash. 

The use of hard brushes may produce tenderness of 
the scalp, especially those worked by a machine. Now 
there is every disadvantage, and not one redeeming feat¬ 
ure, in the use of hard brushes. All hair brushes should 
have long, soft bristles, and their use will promote the 
nutrition of scalp and hair, whereas, hard brushes injure 
both. 


Flabbiness of the Face. 

Stout people, who are in ill health, frequently exhibit 
a flabbiness of the cheeks and of the region under the 
cliin: the parts may tremble visibly when they walk or 
move. The condition frequently arises from the partial 
absorption of the fat, and the retention by the skin of 
nearly its original extent, so that the latter hangs loosely; 
or it may result from the deposition of a poorly organized 
fat, in which the strengthening bands of tissue are¬ 
olar”) are less numerous and firm in character than they 
should be. In any case, the primary cause is mal-nutri- 
tion, depending on defective nervous action. 


BOOK OP THE TOILET. 121 : 

Treatment: If the patient desire to lose his adipose 
condition, he must follow the directions given in the sec¬ 
tion on Obesity. As the patient has a low state of nerv¬ 
ous power, he must take internal tonics, and they should 
be such as provide nerve food; at the same time, his diet¬ 
ary (in its full sense) should be such as to yield the sys¬ 
tem sufficient nourishment—to exercise all the muscles 
of the body; to cleanse the skin from all its impurities; 
to maintain regular daily evacuations; to give mind and 
body sufficient rest; to enable pure and not vitiated air to 
be taken into the blood; and to avoid the overloading of 
the blood with fatty and alcoholic material, and the 
stomach by a multiplicity of dishes. 

Locally, a little iodide of potassium ointment maybe 
nightly rubbed into the skin covering the fatty tissue. Dry 
friction may be previously employed. The skin may be 
tightened by a wash of a tablespoonful of alum to the 
pint of water. 


Frost Bite. 

A mild form of this is, as I have said, the initial stage 
of every chilblain. Any exposed part, as the nose, ears, 
feet, and hands, may be effected. If the cold be applied 
for many days, the parts may be so deprived of blood as 
to mortify. 

Treatment of simple frost bite: The temperature must 
be very gradually raised, and the circulation restored by 
I rubbing the part briskly with snow. Next cold water 
‘ may be used, it being rubbed well on to the skin with 
the hand. Then cold dry flannels should be substituted, 
and finally, the part should be simply wrapped in cotton 
wool. 

This operation should be carried on in a room without 
a fire. 

To apply heat to very cold or frost-bitten parts is a 


128 NEW YORK FASHION BAZAR 

most dangerous proceeding. Severe inflammation or 
even gangrene are common results. 


Herpes Labialis 

generally known as breaking out,” attacks the margins 
of the lips, and most frequently accompanies a cold in the 
head. It is too well known to need description. 

Treatment: 

Oxide of zinc.. . 10 parts. 

Oxide of bismuth.20 parts. 

Powdered starch.20 parts. 

Oxide of iron.2 parts. 

Silica.20 parts. 

Oxide of aluminium.8 parts. 

Oxide of magnesium.10 parts. 

Powdered chalk.10 parts. 

The above should be mixed into a fine powder, and then 
be made into a paste with an equal quantity of glycerine; 
this should be gently rubbed into and spread over the 
parts nightly. 


Burns and Scalds. 

Injuries from acids.—Strong acids applied to the skin 
cause intense pain and destruction of the tissues with 
which the liquids come into contact, the extent of the 
injury varying, of course, with the amount of acid ap¬ 
plied. When the injury has been caused by sulphuric, 
nitric, or hydrochloric acids, apply dilute ammonia, 
chalk, carbonate of magnesia, or the plaster from the 
ceiling stirred in water. After an hour or so apply carron 
oil (olive oil and lime-water in equal parts) on lint. For 
carbolic acid: Apply olive oil. 

Injuries from caustic alkalies, as strong ammonia and 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


129 


potash. Apply a dilute acid, as vinegar; subsequently 
use: 

Olive oil.^ 

Carbonate of bismuth.2 parts. 

Spermaceti.^ P^^^* 

White wax.^ P^^^* 

Simple Burns and Scalds.—If there are vesicles they 
should be pricked with a needle. The part should then 
be covered with carron oil (equal parts of olive oil and 
lime-water), and lint soaked in the same should be applied 
over it. Externally to the lint a thick layer of cotton 
wool should be placed. After two days the carron oil may 
be discontinued, and the following substituted: 


Olive oil. 

Carbonate of bismuth.I 


Starch powder . 
Powdered chalk 
Spermaceti 
Olive oil. 


1 part. 

1 part. 

2 parts. 
1 part. 


If carron oil (equal parts of olive oil and lime-water) is 
not at hand, then olive oil, with equal parts of carbonate 
of soda, or powdered chalk, or powdered starch, or flour, 
will be of service. Or again, if olive oil is not at hand, 
carbonate of soda may be dissolved in tepid water, and 
the part should be freely bathed with this, and then it 
should be thickly covered with a powder of the same. So 
also if the soda is not within reach, simple chalk, starch, 
or flour may be used as a powder. 

Never apply cold to a burn or scald. Kemember this: 
these injuries are not caused, as is popularly imagined, by 
an absorption of heat by the part concerned, which re¬ 
mains in the tissues, but by physical destruction of tissues 
and exhaustion of the local nervous apparatus, this latter 


130 


BOOK OF THE TOILET. 


result being due to tlie violent stimulation. Now life 
can not be carried on without oxidation. Oxidation de¬ 
pends on blood supply, and the power of the tissues to 
take up materials from the blood. This power of the 
tissues is due to nervous supply. By oxidation tlie tissues 
maintain their heat, and heat is an essential condition of 
their ability to perform their functions. Now grasp these 
simple facts, and understand that after a burn or scald 
there is nervous injury, lessened oxidation, lessened heat, 
and lessened tissue power. Therefore, I say. Never apply 
cold. Moreover, the part should be so well wrapped up 
as to preserve as high a temperature as possible. This, 
too, will relieve the pain. 



THE END. 


1 


• I 

INDEX. ' 


Abrasions of the Skin , 
Anointing the Skin 
Attenuation of the Skin . 

Baldness. 

Bathing .... 

Beauty. 

Bilious Eyes 
Black Hair Dye 
Black Heads 
Bleeding Nose 
Bloodshot Eyes 

Boils. 

Bones . 

Breathing .... 
Bunions .... 

Burns and Scalds . 

Caries of Teeth . . . . 

Carriage, Deportment, Exercise, 
and Muscular Development 

Chafing . 

Chapped Hands 

Chaps . . . • 

Chaps and Roughness xif the Lips 
Chest, The .... 

Chilblains .... 
Children’s Warts 
Cleaning the Hair. 

Cleanliness . . • 

Clothing. 

Clothing for Legs and Feet 
Cold Feet .... 

Cold Feet and Hands 
Cold Freckles 
Cold in the Head 
Cologne AVater 
Color in its Relation to Feature 

Colors. 

Common AVarts 

Corns . 

Corns, Hard .... 
Corns, Soft .... 
Cosmetics . . . • 

Cosmetics .... 
Cotton Under-clothing. 

Cramp . _. 

Curling the Hair . 

Dandruff . . • , v * 

Dangerous Hair Oils and Dyes 
Dark Lines under the Eyes . 
Deficient Growth of Nails . 
Deficient Hair .... 
Depilatories .... 
Dilatation of Pupil of Eye 


PAGE 
. 25 


22 

25 
67 
17 

3 

36 

54 

24 

71 
36 
24 
85 
74 

115 
128 

79 

17 

32 

104 

72 
72 
85 

104 

106 

70 

17 

9 

13 
111 

92 
29 

93 

116 
60 

14 
106 
112 
113 
115 

23 

53 

11 

94 
52 

26 
57 
36 
91 
41 
69 
34 


Discolorations of the Skin 
Discolored Nails . 

Dr0ss , • . • 

Dry, Stiff, or Obstinate Hair 
Dye for the Eyelashes 
Ears, The .... 
Eating and Drinking 
Effect of Friction on the Skin 
Effect of Light on the Skin 
Enlarged Joints of the Hands 
Eruptions 
Exercise . 

Eyebrows, The 
Eyelashes, The 
Eyes, The 

Falling Out of Eyelashes 
Fashions in Dress 
Feet, The 
Flatulence 
Flesh Brush 
Foul Breath 
Freckles . 

Full Baths 
Glossy Hair 
Gloves 
Gray Hair 
Growth of the Hair 
Gum Boil 
Hair Brushes 
Hair Cutting 
Hair Dyes 
Hair Oils . 

Hair, The 
Hair AVashes 
Hand, The 
Health . 

Health of the Feet 
Ingrowing Nails . 
Injudicious Feeding 
Irregularity of Teeth 
Irritable Skin . 

Leather and Rubber Cloths 
Looseness of the Skin 
Loss of Color in Hair . 

Loss of Nail . . _ . 

Management of the Hair 
Marks on the Skin 


Moles 

Mouth, The . 
Muscular Development 
Nails, The 
Near Sight 

m) 


PAGE 


26 


92 


16 


51 


38 


84 


6 


23 


22 


106 


27 


21 


38 


37 


3^3 


38 


14 


89 


94 


23 


82 


28 


19 


50 


13 


67 


41 


82 


47 


48 


54 


49 


39 


50 


99 


6 


108 


90 


8 


72 


30 


12 


32 


67 


91 


42 


30 


71 


29 


71 


96 


102 

• 

34 










132 


INDEX 


Nettle Stings 
Nose, The 
Obesity 

Offensive Breath . 
Offensive Feet 
Ophthalmia . 

PaUid Skin 
Perfumes 

Perspiration, Undue 
Piercing the Ears . 
Pimples . . 

Pits in the Nail 
Pomatum 

Powder .... 
Redness 

Ridges on Nail . . 

Roughness of the Skin 
Round Shoulders . 
Scabies, or the “ Itch ” 
Scalp .... 
Scurfiness of the Hair 
Scurf or Dandruff . 
Scurvy 

Sea Bathing . 

Silk Under-clothing 
Skin, The 

Small pox Pitting . 
Soaps .... 
Socks and Stockings 
Soi’e Nipples and Breast 
Splay Foot 
Squinting 
Stains 

Structure of the Hair . 
Summer Freckles 


PAGE 

. 97 
70 

. 120 
97 
. 98 
35 
. 29 
116 
. 101 

84 

. 28 
91 
. 49 
62 
. 30 
91 
. 30 

85 
. 125 

45 

. 68 
31 
. 31 
20 

. 11 
21 
. 31 
117 
. 10 

86 
. 89 

35 
. 103 
. 40 

. 29 


Sunburn . . . . . 

Superfluous Hairs 

Sweating. 

Table Habits .... 
Tartar on Teeth 
Teeth, Decay of . . . 

Teeth, The, etc. 

Teeth, Influence of Food on 
Teeth, Management of 
Tender Feet .... 
Tenderness of the Scalp * 
The Hair of the Head . . 

The Hygiene of Di’ess 
The Skin Around the Nail . 
Thin and Deficient Eyebrows 
Thin Skin .... 
Toilet Articles for the Hair 
Toilet Vinegar 
Toothache .... 
Tooth Powders 
Treatment of Corns 
Turning Feet In and Outward 
Undervests and Draw'ers 

Warts. 

Watery Eyes .... 
Weak Ankles .... 
Weak Eyesight . . . 

White Spots on Nail 
Warm Baths . . 

Wrinkles . . . . 

Waist, The .... 
Wet Feet . . . . 

Whiten the Hands, To 
Whitlow. 


t*AGE 
. 98 
69 

. 101 
8 

. 73 

79 
. 72 

80 
. 74 

110 
. 45 
39 
. 9 

91 
. 38 
25 
. 45 
. 116 
81 
. 77 
113 
. 89 
10 

. 106 

m 

. 89 
33 
. 92 
20 
. 32 
87 
. 109 
101 
. 107 


I 











JUST ISSUED. 


JXJIAET CORSON’S 


NEW FAMILY COOK BOOK. 

BY MISS JUBIET CORSON, 

Author of “Meals for the IMilliou,” etc., etc. 

Teacher of Cooking at the New York Cooking School. 


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How to Make Good Bread, Biscuit, Omelets, Jellies, Jams, Pan¬ 
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Miss Corson is the best American writer on cooking. All of her recipes 
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19 Her Mother's Sin. By the author 

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20 Within an Inch of His Life. By 

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21 Sunrise: A Story of These Times. 

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60 The Last of the Mohicans. By 

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65 Back to the Old Home. By Mary 

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the author of “ Dora Thorne ” 10 

69 Madolin’s Lover. By the author 

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70 White Wings: A Yachting Ro¬ 

mance. By William Black... 10 

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72 Old Myddelton’s Money. By 

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73 Redeemed by Love. By the 

author of “ Dora Thorne ”... 20 

74 Aurora Floyd. By Bliss M. E. 

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75 Twenty Years After. By Alex¬ 

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76 Wife in Name Only. By the 

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84 Hard Times. By Charles Dick¬ 

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85 A Sea Queen. By Wh Clark 

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86 Belinda. By Rhoda Broughton 20 

87 Dick Sand; or, A Captain at 

Fifteen. By Jules Verne. 20 

88 The I’rivateersmau. B 3 ’' Cap¬ 

tain Blariyat. 20 

89 The Red Eiic. By R. BI. Ballan- 

tyne. 10 

90 Ernest Blaltravers. By Sir E. 

Bulwer I.vtton...20 

91 Barnaby Rudge. By Charles 

Dickens. 20 


92 Lord Lynne’s Choice. By the 

author of ” Doi a Thorne ”... 10 

93 Anthony Trollope’s Autobiogra¬ 

phy... . 20 

94 Little Dorrit. By Chai les Dick¬ 

ens. First half.20 

94 Little Dorrit. By Charles Dick¬ 

ens. Second lialf. 20 

95 The Fire Biigade. By R. BI. 

Ballantyne. 10 

96 Erling the Bold. By R. BI. Bal- 

lantjme. 10 

97 All in a Garden Fair. By Walter 

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98 A Woman-Hater. By Chai les 

Reade. 15 

99 Barbara’s History. B 3 ' Amelia 

B. Edwards.20 

100 20,000 Leagues Under the Seas. 

By Jules Verne.20 

101 Second Thoughts. By Rhoda 

Broughton. 20 

102 The Bloonstone. By AVilkie 

Collins. 15 

103 Rose Fleming. By Dora Russell 10 

104 The Coral Pin. By F. Du Bois¬ 

gobey. 30 

105 A Noble AVife. By John Saun¬ 

ders. 20 

106 Bleak House. By Charles Dick¬ 

ens. First half. 20 

106 Bleak House. By Charles Dick¬ 

ens. Second half. 20 

107 Dombey and Son. By Charles 

Dickens.40 

108 The Cricket on the Hearth, and 

Doctor Blarigold. Bj' Charles 
Dickens. 10 

109 Little Loo. By AV. Clark Rus¬ 

sell. 20 

110 Under the Red Flag. By Bliss 

BI. E. Braddon. 10 

111 The Little School-master Blark. 

By J. H. Shorthouse. 10 

112 The AA-aters of Blarah. By John 


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114 Some of Our Girls. By Mrs. 

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115 Diamond Cut Diamond. By T. 

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116 Moths. By “ Ouida ”.20 

117 A Tale of the Shore and Ocean. 

By W. H. G. Kingston. 20 

118 Loys, Lord Berresford, and Eric 

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119 Monica, and A Rose Distill’d. 

By “ The Duchess ”. 10 

120 Tom Brown’s School Days at 

Rugby. By Thomas Hughes 20 

121 Maid of Athens. By Justin Mc¬ 

Carthy. 20 

122 lone Stewart. By Mrs. E. Lynn 

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123 Sweet is True Love. By “ The 

Ducliess ”.; • • • 10 

124 Three Feathers. By William 

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125 The Monarch of Mincing Lane, 

By William Black. 20 

126 Kilrneny. By William Black... 20 

127 Adrian Bright. By Mrs. Caddy 20 

128 Afternoon, and Other Sketches. 

By “ Ouida”. 10 

129 Rossmoyne. By “ The Duch¬ 

ess ”. 10 

130 The Last of the Barons. By 

Sir E. BulwerLytton. 40 

131 Our Mutual Friend. By Charles 

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132 Master Humphrey’s Clock. By 

Charles Dickens. . 10 

133 Peter the Whaler. By AV. H. G. 

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134 The Witching Hour. By “ The 

Duchess”. 10 

135 A Great Heiress. By R. E. Fran- 

cillon. 10 

136 “That Last Rehearsal.” By 

“ The Duchess ”. 10 

137 Uncle Jack. By Walter Besant 10 

138 Green Pastures and Piccadilly. 

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139 The Romantic Adventures of a 

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140 A Glorious Fortune. By Walter 

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141 She Loved Himl By Annie 

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142 Jenifer. By Annie Thomas— 20 

143 One False, Both Fair. J. B. 

Harwood. 20 

144 Promises of Marriage. By 

Emile Gaboriau. 

145 “ Storm-BeatenGod and The 

Man. By Robert Buchanan.. 20 

146 Love Finds the AVay. ByAValter 

Besant and James Rice.. 10 

147 Rachel Ray. By Anthony Trol- 


NO. PRICE, 

149 The Captain’s Daughter. From 

the Russian of Pushkin. 1C 

150 For Himself Alone. By T. W. 

Speight. 10 

151 The Ducie Diamonds. By C. 

Blatherwick. 10 

152 The Uncommercial Traveler. 

By Charles Dickens. 20 

153 The Golden Calf. By Miss M. E. 

Braddon. 20 

154 Annan AVater. By Robert Bu¬ 

chanan. 20 

155 Lady Muriel’s Secret. By Jean 

Middlemas. 2f 

156 “ For a Dream’s Sake.” By Mrs. 

Herbert Martin . 2fl 

157 Milly’s Hero. By F. W. Robin¬ 

son. 20 

158 The Starling. By Norman Mac- 

leod,D.D. 10 

159 A Moment of Madness, and 

Other Stories. By Florence 
Marryat. 1C 

160 Her Geutle Deeds. By Sarah 

Tytler. 10 

161 The Lady of Lyons. Founded 

on the Play of that title by 
Lord Lytton. 10 

162 Eugene Aram. By Sir E. Bul- 

wer Lytton.20 

163 Winifred Power. By Joyce Dar¬ 

rell. 20 

164 Leila; or. The Siege of Grenada. 

By Sir E. Buhver Lytton. 10 

165 The History of Henry Esmond. 

By AVilliam Makepeace.Thack- 


era}’’. 


20 


lope. 


20 


148 Thorns and Orange-Blossoms. 

By the author of “ Dora 
Tiome”.. 10 


166 Moonshine and Marguerites. By 

“ The Duchess ”. 10 

167 Heart and Science. By Wilkie 

Collins. 20 

168 No Thoroughfare. By Charles 

Dickens and AVilkie Collins... 10 

169 The Haunted Man. By Charles 

Dickens. 10 

170 A Great Treason. By Mary 

Hoppus.30 

171 Fortune’s Wheel, and Other 

Stories. By “ The Duchess ” 10 

172 “ Golden Girls.” By Alan Muir 20 

173 The Foreigners. By Eleanor C. 

Price. ^ 

174 Under a Ban. By Mrs. Lodge.. 20 

175 Love’s Random Shot, and Other 

Stories. By AA’^ilkie Collins... 1® 

176 An April Day. By Philippa P. 

Jephson. ^ 

177 Salem Chapel. By Mrs.Ohphant 2C 

178 More Leaves from the Journal 

of a Life in the Highlands. By 
Queen Victoria. 10 

179 Little Make-Believe. By B. L. 

Farjeon.• 1® 

180 Round the Galley Fire. By W. 

Clark Russell. 10 

181 The New Abelard. By Robert 

Buchanan.c;***-,.^ 

188 The Millionaire. A Novel. 





























































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183 Old Contra! ry, and Other Sto¬ 

ries. By Florence Marryat... 10 

184 Thirlby Hall. By \V. E. Norris. 20 

185 Dita. By Lady Margaret Ma- 

jendie. 10 

186 The Canon’s Ward. By James 

Payn. 20 

187 The Midnight Sun. ByFredrika 

Bremer. 10 

188 Idonea. By Anne Beale.20 

189 Valerie’s Fate. Mrs. Alexander 5 

190 Romance of a Black Veil. By 

the author of “ Dora Thorne ” 10 

191 Harry Lorrequer. By Charles 

Lever. 15 

192 At the World’s Mercy. By F. 

Warden. 10 

193 The Rosary Folk. By Q. Man- 

ville Fenn. 10 

194 “SoNear, andYet So Farl” By 

Alison. 10 

196 “ The Way of the World.” By 

David Christie Murray. 15 

196 Hidden Perils. By Mary Cecil 

Hay. 10 

197 For Her Dear Sake. By Mary 

Cecil Hay. 20 

198 A Husband’s Story... 10 

199 The Fisher Village. By Anne 

Beale. 10 

200 An Old Man’s Love. By An¬ 

thony Trollope. 10 

201 The Monastery. By Sir Walter 

Scott. 20 

202 The Abbot. By Sir Walter Scott 20 

203 John Bull and His Island. By 

Max O’Rell. 10 

204 Vixen. By Miss M. E. Braddon 15 
^5 The Minister’s Wife. By Mrs. 

Oliphant. 30 

206 The Picture, and Jack of All 

Trades. By Charles Reade.. 10 

207 Pretty Miss Neville. By B. M. 

Croker. 15 

208 The Ghost of Charlotte Cray, 

and Other Stories. By Flor¬ 
ence Marryat. 10 

209 John Holdsworth, Chief Mate. 

By W. Clark Russell. 10 

210 Readiana: Comments on Cur¬ 

rent Events. By Chas. Reade 10 

211 The Octoroon. Bj’ Miss M. E. 

Braddon. 10 

212 Charles O’Malley, the Irish Dra¬ 

goon. By Chas. Lever (Com¬ 
plete in one volume). 30 

•13 A Terrible Temptation. Chas. 

15 

•14 Put Yourself in His Place. By 
Charles Reade.20 

215 Not Like Other Girls. Bj' Rosa 

Nouchette Carey.15 

216 Foul Play. By Charles Reade. 15 

217 'J'he Man She Cared For. By 

F. W. Robinson. 15 

218 Agnes Sorel. By G. P. R. James 15 


219 Lady Clare; or. The Master of 
the Forges. By Georges Ohnet 10 


NO. PRioa 

220 Which Loved Him Best? Bv 

the author of “ Dora Thorne 16 

221 Coinin’ Thro’ the Rye. By 

Helen B. Mathers. 15 

222 The Sun-Maid. By Miss Grant 15 

223 A Sailor’s Sweetheart. By W. 

Clark Russell. II 

224 The Arundel Motto. Mary Cecil 

Hay. 15 

225 Tlie Giant’s Robe. By F. Anstey 15 

226 Friendship. By ” Ouida ”.20 

227 Nancy. By Rhoda Broughton. 16 

!ii8 Princess Napraxine. By “ Oui¬ 
da”. 26 

229 Maid, Wife, or Widow? By 

Mrs. Alexander. 10 

230 Dorothy Forster. By AValter 

Besaut. 15 

231 Griffith Gaunt. Charles Reade 1.5 

232 Love and Bloney; or, A Peinlous 

Secret. By Charles Reade... 10 

233 ‘‘ I Say Noor, the Love-Letter 

Answered. Wilkie Collins.... 15 

234 Barbara; or, Splendid Misery. 

Miss M. E. Braddon. 15 

235 “ It is Never Too Late to 

Mend.” By Charles Reade... 20 

236 Whicli Shall It Be? Mrs. Alex¬ 

ander. 20 

237 Repented at Leisure. By the 

author of “ Dora Thorne ”... 15 

238 Pascarel. By “ Ouida ”. 20 

239 Signa. By ” Ouida ”.20 

240 Called Back. By Hugh Conway 10 

241 The Baby’s Grandmother. By 

L. B. Walford. 10 

242 TheTwo Oi’phans. ByD’Ennery 10 

243 Tom Burke of “ Ours.” First 

half. By Charles Lever. 20 

243 Tom Burke of ” Ours.” Second 

half. By Charles Lever-20 

244 A Great Mistake. By the author 

of “ His Wedded Wife ”.20 

245 Miss Tommy, and In a House- 

Boat. By Miss Mulock. 10 

246 A Fatal Dower. By the author 

of “ His Wedded Wife ”. 10 

247 The Armourer’s Prentices. By 

Charlotte M. Youge. 10 

248 The House on the Marsh. F. 

Warden. 10 

249 ” Prince Charlie’s Daughter.” 

By author of “ Dora Thorne ” 1# 

250 Sunshine and Roses; or, Di¬ 

ana’s Discipline. By the au¬ 
thor of ” Dora Thorne ”. 16 

251 The Daughter of the Stars, and 

Other Tales. By Hugh Con- 
way.authorof‘‘Called Back” 16 

252 A Sinless Secret. By “ Rita”.. 10 
2.53 The Amazon By Carl Vosmaer 10 

254 The Wife’s Secret, and Fair but 

False. By the author of 
” Dora Thorne ”. 10 

255 The M5’^stery. By Mrs. Henry 

Wood. 15 

256 Mr. Smith: A Part of His Life. 

% L. B. Walford. V 




















































THE SEASIDE LIBRARY—Pocket Edition. 


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257 Beyond Recall. By Adeline Ser¬ 

geant. . 10 

258 Cousins. By L. B. Walford.... 20 

1^9 The Bride of Monte-Cristo. (A 

Sequel to “ The Count of 
Monte-Cristo.” By Alexander 
Dumas. 10 

260 Proper Pride. By B. M. Croker 10 

261 A Fair Maid. By F. W. Robinson 20 
1^2 The Count of Monte-Cristo. 

Part I. By Alexander Dumas 20 
263 The Count of Monte Cristo. 

Part II. By Alexander Dumas 20 

263 An Ishmaelite. By Miss M. E. 

Braddou. 15 

264 Pi6douche, A French Detective. 

By Fortun6 Du Boisgobey.... 10 

265 Judith Shakespeare: Her Love 

Affairs and Other Adventures. 

By William Black. 15 

266 The Water-Babies. A Fairy Tale 

for a Land-Baby. By the Rev. 
Charles Kingsiey. 10 

267 Laurel Vane; or. The Girls’ 

Conspiracy. B 3 '^ Mrs. Alex. 
McVeigh Miller. 20 

268 Lady Gay’s Pride; or, The 

Miser’s Treasure. By Mrs. 
Alex. McA^’eigh Miller. 20 

269 Lancaster’s Choice. By Mrs. 

Alex. McVeigh Miller. 20 

270 The Wandering Jew. Part I. 

By Eugene Sue. 

270 The Waudering Jew. Part II. 

By Eugene Sue... 

271 The Mysteries of Paris. Part I. 

By Eugene Sue. 

271 The Mysteries of Paris. Part II. 

By Eugene Sue. 

272 The Little Savage. By Captain 

Marryat. 10 

273 Love and Mirage; or. The Wait¬ 

ing on an Island. By M. 

Betham Edwards.. 10 

374 Alice, Grand Duchess of Hesse, 
Princess of Great Britain and 
Ireland. Biographical Sketch 
and Letters. 10 

275 The Three Brides. Charlotte M. 

Yonge. ••• 10 

276 Under the Lilies and Roses. By 

Florence Marryat (Mrs. Fran¬ 
cis Lean).— 10 

377 The Surgeon’s Daughters. By 
Mrs. Henry Wood. A Man of 
His Word. By W. E. Norris. 

278 For Life and Love. By Alison. 

279 Little Goldie. Mrs. Sumner Hay- 

280 Omnia Vanitas. A Tale of So¬ 

ciety. By Mrs. Forrester. 

281 The Squire’s Legacy. By Mary 

Cecil Hay... 15 

882 Donal Grant. By George Mac- 

Donald.. •••• 15 

283 The Sin of a Lifetime. By the 

author of ‘‘ Dora Thorne ”... 10 
«4 Doris. By‘‘TheDuchess”. ..10 


20 

20 

20 

20 


10 

10 

20 

10 


NO. PRICE. 

285 The Gambler’s Wife... 20 

286 Deldee; or. The Iron Hand. By 

F. Warden.20 

287 At War With Herself. By the 

author of ” Dora Thorne ”... 10 

288 From Gloom to Sunlight. By 

the author of ” Dora Thorne ” 10 

289 John Bull’s Neighbor in Her 

True Light. By a ‘‘ Brutal 
Saxon ”. 10 

290 Nora’s Love Test. By Mary Cecil 

Hay. 20 

291 Love’s Warfare. By the author 

of ” Dora Thorne ”. 1C 

292 A Golden Heart. By the author 

of “Dora Thorne”. 10 

293 The Shadow of a Sin. By the 
author of “ Dora Thorne ”... 10 

294 Hilda. By the author of “ Dora 

Tliorne”. 10 

295 A Woman’s War. By the author 

of “ Dora Thorne ”. 10 

296 A Rose in Thorns. By the au¬ 
thor of “Dora Thorne”. 10 

297 Hilary’s Folly. By the author 

of “ Dora Thorne ”. 10 

298 Mitchelhurst Place. By Marga¬ 
ret Veley. 10 

299 The Fatal Lilies, and A Bride 

from the Sea. By the author 
of “ Dora Thorne ”. 10 

300 A Gilded Sin, and A Bridge of 

Love. By the author of “ Dora 
Thorne ”. 10 

301 Dark Days. By Hugh Conway. 10 

302 The Blatchford Bequest. By 

Hugh Conway. 10 

303 Ingledew House, and More Bit¬ 

ter than Death. By the author 
of “ Dora Thorne ”. 10 

304 In Cupid’s Net. By the author 

of “Dora Thorne”.10 

305 A Dead Heart, and Lady Gwen¬ 

doline’s Dream. By the au¬ 
thor of “ Dora Thorne ”. 10 

306 A Golden Dawn, and Love for a 

Day. By the author of “ Dora 
Thorne ”. 10 

307 Two Kisses, and Like No Other 

Love. By the author of “Dora 
Thorne”. 1® 

308 Beyond Pardon. 20 

309 The Pathfinder. By J. Fern- 

more Cooper.20 

310 The Prairie. By J. Fenimore 

Cooper.20 

311 Two Years Before the Mast. By 

R. H. Dana, Jr.2« 

312 A Week in Killarney. By “ The 

Duchess”. !• 

313 The Lover’s Creed. By Mrs. 

Cashel Hoey.^ 

314 Peril. By Jessie Fothergill.... 20 

315 The Mistletoe Bough. Edited 

by Miss M. E. Braddon. 30 

816 Sworn to Silence; or. Aline Rod- 
ney’s Secret. By Mrs. Alex. 
McVeigh MUJer.. 



















































THE SEASIDE LIBRARY—Pocket Edition, 


V* 

817 By Mead and Stream. Charles 

Gibbon. 20 

B18 The Pioneers; or, The Sources 
of the Susquehanna. By J. 

Fenimore Cooper.20 

319 Face to Face: A Fact in Seven 

Fables. By R. E. Francillon. 10 

820 A Bit of Human Nature. By 

David Christie Murray.10 

821 The Prodigals: And Their In¬ 

heritance. By Mrs. Oliphant 10 

822 A Woman’s Love-Story. 10 

82:1 A Willful Maid. 20 

824 In Luck at Last. By Walter 

Besaut. 10 

S25 The Portent. By George Mac¬ 
donald. 10 

826 Phantastes. A Faerie Romance 

for Men and Women. By 
George Macdonald. 10 

827 Raymond’s Atonen«ent. (From 

the German of E. Werner.) 

By Christina Tyrrell. 20 

828 Babiole, the Pretty Milliner. By 


F. bu Boisgobey. First half. 20 

828 Babiole, the Pretty Milliner. By 

F. Du Boisgobey. Second half 20 

829 The Polish Jew. ByErckmann- 

Chatrian... 10 

330 May Blossom; or, Between Two 

Loves. By Margaret Lee-20 

S31 Gerald. By’Eleanor C. Price.. 20 

832 Judith Wynne. A Novel.20 

333 Frank Fairlegh ; or, Scenes 
from the Life of a Private 
Pupil. By Frank E. Smedley 20 
134 A Marriage of Convenience. By 

Harriett Jay. 10 

835 The White Witch. A Novel.... 20 

836 Philistia. By Cecil Power.20 

837 Memoirs and Resolutions of 

Adam Graeme of Mossgray, 
Including Some Chronicles of 
the Borough of Fendie. By 
Mrs. Oliphant.20 

838 The Family Difficulty. By Sarah 

Doudney. 10 

839 Mrs. Vereker’s Courier Maid. 

By Mrs. Alexander..... 10 

340 Under Which King? By Comp¬ 

ton Reade.20 

341 Madolin Rivers; or. The Little 

Beauty of Red Oak Seminary. 

By Laura Jean Libbey.20 

842 The Baby, and One New Year’s 

Eve. By “The Duchess”.... 10 
143 The Talk of the Town. By 

James Payn.20 

844 “ The Wearing of the Green.” 

By Basil.20 

345 Madam. By Mrs. Oliphant_20 

346 Tumbledown Farm. By Alan 

Muir. 10 

347 As Avon Flows. By Henry Scott 

Vince. 20 

34IP ffrom Post to Finish. A Racing 
^mance. By Hawley Smart 20 


NO. ’ PRICK. 

349 The Two Admirals. A Tale of 

the Sea. By J. Fenimore 
Cooper. 20 

350 Diana of the Crossways. By 

George Meredith.10 

851 The House on the Moor. By 
Mrs. Oliphant.20 

352 At Any Cost. By Edward Gar¬ 

rett. 10 

353 The Black Dwarf, and A Leg 

end of Montrose. By Sir Wal¬ 
ter Scott. 20 

.354 The Lottery of Life. A Story 
of New York Twenty Years 
Ago. By John Brougham... 20 
355 That Terrible Man. By W. E. 
Norris. The Princess Dago- 
mar of Poland. By Heinrich 


Feibermann. 10 

356 A Good Hater. By Frederick 

Boyle.20 

357 John. A Love Story. By Mrs. 

Oliphant. 20 

358 Within the Clasp. By J. Ber¬ 

wick Harw’ood.20 

359 The Water-Witch. By J. Feni- 


iiiui e . 

360 Ropes of Sand. By R. E. Fran¬ 

cillon. 20 

361 The Red Rover. A Tale of the 

Sea. By J. Fenimore Cooper 20 

362 The Bride of Lammermoor. 

By Sir Walter Scott.20 

363 The Surgeon’s Daughter. By 

Sir Walter Scott. 10 

364 Castle Dangerous. By Sir Wal¬ 

ter Scott. 10 

365 George Christy; or. The Fort¬ 

unes of a Minstrel. By Tony 
Pastor. 20 

366 The Mysterious Hunter; or. 

The Man of Death. By Capt. 

L. C. Carleton. 20 

367 Tie and Trick. By Hawley Smart 20 

368 The Southern Star; or. The Dia¬ 

mond Land. By Jules Verne 20 

369 Miss Bretherton. By Mrs. Hum¬ 

phry Ward. 10 

370 LucyCrofton. By Mrs. Oliphant 10 

371 Margaret Maitland. By Mrs. Oli¬ 

phant. 30 

372 Phyllis’ Probation. By the au¬ 

thor of “ His Wedded Wife ”. 10 

373 Wing-and-Wing. J. Fenimore 

Cooper. 20 


374 The Dead Man’s Secret; or. The 

Adventures of a Medical Stu¬ 
dent. By Dr. Jupiter Paeon.. SO 

375 A Ride to Khiva. By Capt. Fred 

Burnaby, of the Royal Horse 


Guards. 20 

376 The Crime of Christmas-Day. 

By the author of “ My Duc¬ 
ats and My Daughter.10 

877 Magdalen Hepburn; A Story 
of the Scottish Reformation. 

By Mrs. Oliphant. .. 20 















































THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.-Pocket Edition. 


NO. PRICE. 

378 Homeward Bound; or. The 

Chase. J. Feuimore Cooper.. 20 

379 lIooTie as Found. (Sequel to 

“ Homeward Bound.”) By J. 
Fenimore Cooper.20 

380 Wyandotte; or. The Hutted 

Knoll. J. Feuimore Cooper.. 20 

381 The Red Cardinal. By Frances 

Elliot.10 

382 Three Sisters; or, Sketches of 

a Highly Original Family. 

By Elsa D’Estei-re-Keeling... 10 

383 Introduced to Society. By Ham¬ 


ilton Ai'd 6 ...... 10 

884 On Horseback Through Asia 

Minor. Capt. Fred Burnaby. 20 

386 The Headsman; or, TheAbbaye 

des Vignerons. By J. Feui¬ 
more Cooper.20 

J86 Led Astray; or, “La Petite Comt- 
esse.” By Octave Feuillet... 10 

387 The Secret of the Cliffs. By 

Charlotte French. 20 


388 Addie’s Husband; or. Through 

Clouds to Sunshine. By the 
author of “Love or Lands?” 10 

389 Ichabod. By Bertha Thomas... 10 

390 Mildred Trevanion. By “ The 


Duchess”. 10 

391 The Heart of Mid-Lothian. By 

Sir Walter Scott. 20 

392 Peveril of the Peak. By Sir Wal¬ 

ter Scott. 20 

393 The Pirate. Bj'^ Sir Walter Scott 20 

394 The Bravo. By J. Feuimore 

Cooper. 20 

395 The Arcliipelago on Fire. By 

Jules Vei ne. 10 

396 Robert Ord’s Atonement. By 

Rosa Nouchette Carey. 20 

397 Lionel Lincoln; or. The Leaguer 

of Boston. By J. Fenimore 

Cooper. 20 

898 Matt: A Tale of a Caravan. 
By Robert Buchanan . 10 

399 IMiss Brown. By Vernon Lee.. 20 

400 The Wept of Wish-Ton-Wish, 

By J. Fenimore Cooper. 20 


401 Waverley. By Sir Walter Scott 20 

402 Lilliesleaf; or. Passages in tlie 

Life of Mrs. Margaret Mait¬ 
land of Sunnyside. By Airs. 
Oliphaut. 20 

403 An English Squire. C. R. Cole¬ 

ridge. 20 

404 In Durance Vile, and Other 

Stories. By “ The Duchess ”. 10 

405 My Friends and I. Edited by 

Julian Sturgis.10 

406 The Alerchant’s Clerk. By Sam¬ 

uel Warren. 10 

407 Tylney Hall. By Thomas Hood 20 

408 Lester’s Secret. By Alary Cecil 

Hay.20 

409 Roy’s Wife. By G. J. Whyte- 

Melville. 20 

410 Old Lady Alary. By Airs. Oli- 

phant. 10 


NO. PRICE. 


411 A Bitter Atonement. By Char¬ 

lotte AI. Biaeme, author of 
“Dora Thorne”.20 

412 Some One Else. By B. AI. Croker 20 

413 Afloat and Ashore. By J. Feni¬ 

more Cooper. 20 

414 Allies Wallingford. (Sequel to 

“ Afloat and Ashore.”) By J. 
Fenimore Cooper. 20 

415 The Ways of the Hour. By J. 

Fenimore Cooper. 20 

416 Jack Tier; or. The Florida Reef. 

By J. Fenimore Cooper.20 

417 The Fair Alaid of Perth ; or, St. 

Valentine’s Day, By Sir Wal¬ 
ter Scott. 20 

418 St. Ronan’s Well. By Sir Wal¬ 

ter Scott. 20 

419 The Chainbearer; or. The Little- 

page Alanuscripts. By J. 
Fenimore Cooper. 20 

420 Satanstoe; or. The Littlepage 

Manuscripts. By J. Fenimore 
Cooper. 2Q 


421 The Redskins; or, Indian and 

Injin. Being the conclusion 
of The Lfltlepage Alanu¬ 
scripts. J. Fenimoi’e Cooper 20 

422 Preca ution. J.Fenimore Cooper 20 

423 The Sea-Lions; or. The Lost 

Sealers. J. Fenimore Cooper 90 

424 Alercedes of Castile; or. The 

Voyage to Cathay. By J, 


Fenimore Cooper. 20 

425 TheOak Openings; or. The Bee- 

Hunter. J. Fenimoi'e Cooper, 20 

426 Venus’s Doves. By Ida Ash¬ 

worth Tcvylor.2C 

427 The Remarkable History of Sir 

Thomas Upmore, Bart., AI.P., 
formerly known as “ Tommy 
Upmore.” R. D. Blackmore. 20 

428 Z 6 ro: A Story of Alonte-Carlo. 

By Airs. Campbell Praed. 10 

429 Boulderstone; or. New Alen and 

Old Populations. By Wiliam 
Sime. 10 

430 A Bitter Reckoning. By the 

author of “By Crooked Paths” 10 

431 The Monikins. By J. Fenimore 

Cooper . 20 

432 The Witch’s Head. By H. Rider 

Haggard.20 

433 Aly Sister Kate. By Charlotte 

AI. Braeme, author of “ Dora 
Thorne,” and A Rainy June. 

By “ Ouida ”. 10 

434 Wyllard’s Weird. By Aliss M, 

E. Braddon. 20 

435 Klytia: A Stoiy of Heidelberg 

Castle. By George Taylor.... 20 

436 Stella. B}'Fanny Lewald—20 

437 Life and Adventures of Alartin 

Chuzzlew'it. By Charles Dick- 


Chuzzlewit. By Charles Dick¬ 
ens. Second half. ....20 


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438 Found Out. Helen B. Mathers. 10 

439 Great Expectations. By Chas. 

Dickens . 20 

440 Mrs. Lirriper’s Lodgings. Bj' 

Charles Dickens. 10 

441 A Sea Change. By Flora L. 

Shaw.20 

442 Ranthorpe. By George Henry 

Lewes. 20 

443 The Bachelor of The Albany... 10 

414 The Heart of Jane Warner. By 

Florence Marry at. 20 

415 The Shadow of a Crime. By 

Hall Caine. 20 

44() Dame Durden. By “Rita”_20 

417 American Notes. By Charles 

Dickens. 20 

448 Pictures E'rom Italy, and The 

Mudfog Papers, &c. By Chas. 
Dickens.20 

449 Peeress and Player. By Flor¬ 

ence Marryat. 20 

450 Godfrey Helstone. ByGeorgiana 

M. Craik.20 

451 Market Harborough, and Inside 

the Bar. By G. J. Whyte- 
Melville .20 

452 In the West Countrie. By Maj" 

Crommelin. 20 

453 The Lottery Ticket. By F. Du 

Boisgobey. 20 

454 The Mystery of Edwin Drood. 

By Charles Dickens. 20 

455 Lazarus in London. By F. AV. 

Robinson. 20 

456 Sketches bj'Boz. Illustrative of 

Every-day Life and Every-day 
People. By Charles Dickens. 20 

457 The Russians at the Gates of 

Herat. By Charles Marvin... 10 

458 A AVeek of Passion; or. The Di¬ 

lemma of Mr. George Barton 
the Younger. By Edward Jen¬ 


kins. 20 

459 A AA'^oman’s Temptation. By 
Charlotte M. Braeme, author 

of “Dora Thorne”. 20 

4G0 Under a Shadow. By Charlotte 
M. Braeme, author of “ Dora 
Thorne”.«. 20 


401 His AVedded AA^ife. By author 


of “ Ladybird’s Penitence ”.. 20 

402 Alice’s Adventures in AA’^onder- 

land. By Lewis Carroll. AA’ith 
forty-two illustrations by 
John Tenniel.20 

403 Redgauntlet. By Sir AValter 

Scott.20 

465 The Earl’s Atonement. By Char¬ 
lotte M. Braeme, author of 
“ Dora Thorne ”. 20 


NO. PRICE. 


466 Betiveen Two Loves. By Char¬ 

lotte M. Braeme, author of 
“ Dora Thorne ”.20 

467 A Struggle for a Ring. By Char¬ 

lotte M. Braeme, author of 
“Dora Thorne”. 20 

468 The Fortunes, Good and Bad, 

of a Sewing-Girl. By Char¬ 
lotte M. Stanley. 10 

469 Lady Darner’s Secret. By Char¬ 

lotte M. Braeme, author of 
“ Dora Thorne ”. 20 

470 Evelyn’s Folly. By Charlotte 

M. Braeme, author of “ Dora 
Thorne”. 20 

471 Thrown on the AA^orld. By Char¬ 

lotte M. Braeme, author of 
“Dora Thorne”. 20 

472 The AVise AVomen of Inverness. 

ByAA’illiam Black. 10 

473 A Lost Son. By Mary Linskill. 10 

474 Serapis. An Historical Novel. 

By George Ebers. 20 

475 The Prima Donna’s Hu.sband. 

By F. Du Boisgobey. 20 

476 Between 'Tw'o Sins. By Char¬ 

lotte M. Braeme, author of 
“ Dora Thorne ”. 10 


477 Affinities. A Romance of To¬ 

day. By Mrs. Campbell Praed. 10 

478 Diavola; or. Nobody’s Daughter 

By MissM. E. Braddon. Parti. 20 

478 Diavola; or. Nobody’s Daughter 

By Miss M. E. Braddon. Part H. 20 

479 Louisa. By Katharine S. Mac- 


quoid.20 

480 Married in Haste. By Miss M. 

E. Braddon. 20 

481 The House that Jack Built. By 

Alison. 10 


482 A Vagrant AATfe. ByF. AA'ardeu 20 

483 Betwixt IMy Love and Me. By 

the author of “A Golden Bar” 10 

484 Although He AA’^as a Lord, and 

Other Tales. Mrs. Forrester. 10 

485 Tinted A^apours. ByJ. Maclaren 


Cobban. lO 

486 Dick’s Sweetheart. By “The 

Duchess”. 20 

487 Put to the Test. Edited by Miss 

AI. E. Braddon. 20 

490 A Second Life. By Airs. Alex¬ 

ander. 20 

491 Society in London. By A For¬ 

eign Resident . lO 

492 Alignon; or. Booties’ Baby. By 

J. S. AViuter. Illustrated. 10 


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